Risers vs Helibars

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Jun 4, 2017
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Location
Pennsylvania
Having shoulder pain while riding my 91 ST1100. Fitting risers, Heli bars or an alternative seems sensible.

Is one better than the other?
Will new, longer cables be needed?
I'll do the work myself, anything I should know?

Your input is welcome! Dave
 
Can't help really, I'm pretty comfy on stock bars; but wouldn't helibars give you more adjustment to fine tune the riding position?
Wouldn't bar risers be a one trick pony?
Upt'North.
 
Gen Mar Manufacturing did the trick for me. 1 inch up and one inch back. Plus I was able to keep the gray handle bar cover.
 
Two inch Rox risers. No longer hoses needed, just re-route. Took the opportunity while I had it all apart for fork maintenance to paint most of the visible stuff black. Never cared for the "Accord-like" look of the grey cover myself and it won't fit with these risers anyway.

In case you are wondering - that cover I have on the steering stem nut is the cap off an Amsoil bottle, held firmly in place for four years now by a wad of Dum-Dum.
 

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Having shoulder pain while riding my 91 ST1100. Fitting risers, Heli bars or an alternative seems sensible.

Is one better than the other?
Will new, longer cables be needed?
I'll do the work myself, anything I should know?

Your input is welcome! Dave

Have done both risers and Heli-Bars, separate at different times. Found Heli-Bars to be the better option and still have the 3in. risers specificly for the 91-95 ST1100 if anyone were interested in them. They are factory anodized black.
 
Is one better than the other?


As I have a 1300 I got the Helibar Tour Performance riser and it's a beautiful piece of machining equal to the 1300. That may apply as well to the Helibar Horizon bars for the 1100.

Aside from that 'better' is whatever works best for you putting your hands wrists and arms in a position that you can ride with for hours at a time.

Though pricey the Horizons have have a great variety of positions. Almost if not all the others have only one position and you have to take an educated guess as to whether or not they will improve your situation and are worth the investment.

Once you decide on a particular riser you'll probably get more detailed information as to fitment. Many small risers don't need cables replaced. My only advice is generic: don't over tighten any bolts/screws and take care not to scratch the tank facade/shelter.
 
That sounds interesting,can I have some more info please? Any pics?
www.genmar.com part #X103 $75.95. Takes about 45 minutes. You don't have to mess with cables just remove gray cover and the 4 screws holding the bar clamps. Replace with gen mar riser clamps. reassemble and done. Looking at my motorcycle you cannot tell I have risers. I like it looking stock. Like I said earlier $75.00 was the cure for me.
 
That sounds interesting,can I have some more info please? Any pics?
www.genmarmfg.com. Part# X103 $75.95. Takes about 45 minutes to do very easy. No messing with cables and you retain the stock look of your St1100. I got these when I bought my bike 18 years ago. really made it comfortable for long trips. Plus $75.00 to boot.
 
My 94 has risers and the 2000 has Helibars. I have the Helibars adjusted pretty much the same as the OEM bars of the 94 so I would probably advise you to go with the cheaper option, which would be the risers. There's less adjustability with the risers, but it's probable you really won't notice the difference between those and the Helibars.
 
My 94 has risers and the 2000 has Helibars. I have the Helibars adjusted pretty much the same as the OEM bars of the 94 so I would probably advise you to go with the cheaper option, which would be the risers. There’s less adjustability with the risers, but it’s probable you really won’t notice the difference between those and the Helibars.

+1 - I had Helibars on my '95 for 19 years and now the 2" Rox risers on my '96 since then. No noticeable difference for me and actually prefer the ease of install with the risers. The Helibars (original style, no longer made by Heli Modified) had no reference marks on the barrels, which made it very tedious in getting both sides to be in exactly the same hand position.
 
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