Rotella and other diesel oils?

[Andrew Shadow]

Owners manual suggests SF/SG 10w40 oil. No mention of any JASO specs ......

That is because it pre-dates when JASO became neccessary. Prior to JASO using an automotive oil that was not labelled as energy/resource conserving was sufficient. That is often no longer necessarily the case when using an automobile oil as they now have many different additives that were not present back then. These additives being introduced in automobile oils is what precipitated the introduction of the JASO standard and the recommendation for using JASO MA rated oils.

 

[Sidekick]

As much as I've worked on my bike, I'm still very new to the nuances of it. I go far has been a wonderful help, but I'm still a little leery on letting go of both handlebars when I ride, cuz the steering seems super sensitive and a little bit shaky. I don't know if I need to adjust something in the front end or have my front end bearings looked at, but I will get there eventually. I've had my bike for about 4 or 5 years now and it came to me as a front end wreck but everything was good on it for the most part. And I've gotten it back to OEM looking with the help of I go far. But I am still trying to figure out how to get the steering f*** to be smooth as silk without all the tiny vibrations and the super sensitivity on highways. So I can at least Cruise comfortably with my hands off the handlebars from time to time.

Is it the SuperTECH you are referring to?
Have you done some research before picking it, I couldn't find information about JASCO and detergent additives.

 

[mello dude]

 

[Daboo]

The crush washers work better if flipped over each oil change

So that leads to another question... Obviously, when you flip the crush washer over, does it matter what kind of oil you use for the next oil change? What I mean, is it okay to mix the type of oil? Say a synthetic oil on one side of the crush washer, and on the other side, just plain old "dino" oil? Hmm...

I'm sure someone knows how much oil is absorbed in the crush washer each time and whether mixing the oil (if they are different) will make a difference.

Chris

 

[Whisperquiet]

So that leads to another question... Obviously, when you flip the crush washer over, does it matter what kind of oil you use for the next oil change? What I mean, is it okay to mix the type of oil? Say a synthetic oil on one side of the crush washer, and on the other side, just plain old "dino" oil? Hmm...

I'm sure someone knows how much oil is absorbed in the crush washer each time and whether mixing the oil (if they are different) will make a difference.

Chris

I thoroughly clean and polish (this is the important step) the used crush washer before the flip and reinstall. No cross contamination for me.

 

[W0QNX]

Funny thing about those mysterious soft crush washers. They are there to stop oil leaks, nothing more. If it don't leak your good.

Short version: same washer probably 400,000 miles here on the ST1300.

Long version: I change the oil myself in all my oil lubed engines.

Car 1
Car 2
Truck
Suburban
Bike
Rider mower
push mower
self push mower
self push mower
chainsaw
boat
generator 1
gen 2
gen 3 (opps it's a 2 smoke, no crankcase)

I have no new crush washers for any of the above. Ok okay some of them even only have a pipe plug thingy for a drain hole...but they don't leak.

 

[Nashcat]

What is this crush washer thing y’all are talking about?

I’ll just leave this here. IYKYK

 

[notagix]

Have any of you seen this? https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ It's a very in depth article about oil.

 

[Daboo]

What is this crush washer thing y’all are talking about?

I’ll just leave this here. IYKYK

I'm just trying to inject a bit of humor into the whole oil thread. Make it a bit different. Have some fun with it. That's all.

But on the subject of crush washers...

...if we overtighten the drain bolt, will that keep the crush washer from performing correctly? Would the crush washer get flattened then and allow leakage? I mean, I could see the drain plug leaking if the temperature were really cold and the cold viscosity was about a 5W or 10W. Maybe I should change it and hold onto that crush washer till I get some summer weight oil in there with a heavier viscosity???

Chris

 

[jdmccright]

Truly you have a dizzying intellect.

 

[Al st1100]

If my crush washer was copper would that make it an Orange Crush?

 

[ST Gui]

Orange Crush?

A completely different connotation for me.

 

[MidLife]

Shop manager said he got a call from his lubricant supplier, warning about an upcoming big price hike (some up to 60%).

He's stocking as much as he can at current prices. May grab a few gallons myself.

 

[dwalby]

this is awesome, an entirely new direction for an oil thread, and I for one am really excited.

Which oil should I buy as a financial investment during the war???

 

[Al st1100]

this is awesome, an entirely new direction for an oil thread, and I for one am really excited.

Which oil should I buy as a financial investment during the war???

gun oil

 

[mello dude]

this is awesome, an entirely new direction for an oil thread, and I for one am really excited.

Which oil should I buy as a financial investment during the war???

Don't wanna get serious, but ok for a moment ....it's too late to buy any oil related investment. Everything in that sector has already appreciated.
I have Sunoco stock, it's gone bonkers to 70 a share. The thing is, if oil prices ever drop, so will the stock.
So in general, if you buy now, you'll get burned in the long run.

 

[dwalby]

Don't wanna get serious, but ok for a moment ....it's too late to buy any oil related investment. Everything in that sector has already appreciated.
I have Sunoco stock, it's gone bonkers to 70 a share. The thing is, if oil prices ever drop, so will the stock.
So in general, if you buy now, you'll get burned in the long run.

It was 100% obvious I was joking about the entire topic, and asking about which motor oil I should stockpile, but thanks for that advice Mr. Buffett.

 

[Oldschool1]

Any thoughts on using the Rotella “Dino” T4 when you have a surplus?

If I was buying oil I would just go get the T6 , but I have about 8 gallonsT4 that I’m not going to be using any time (bought for the truck),……..not to mention about 6 gallons Delo400 taking up space.

 

[Daboo]

Any thoughts on using the Rotella “Dino” T4 when you have a surplus?

Sure. Use it. The days of a PAO base stock are pretty much over. I think Amsoil still uses it, but most "synthetic" oil comes from a crude oil base. It has been refined more so it has some advantages, but if you're changing your oil every 5-6000 miles, it should be fine.

The Brave browser's answer of synthetic vs conventional oil is:

Synthetic oil is chemically engineered with uniform molecules, whereas conventional oil is refined from crude oil and contains molecules of varying sizes. This structural difference makes synthetic oil more stable, resistant to breakdown, and effective across extreme temperatures, while conventional oil is less expensive but degrades faster and is thicker at low temperatures.

Performance and Protection: Synthetic oil outperforms conventional oil by approximately 47% in industry-standard tests, offering superior lubrication, cleaner engines, and better protection for turbocharged or high-performance engines. Conventional oil is adequate for light-duty driving and older engines with higher mileage (over 75,000 miles), where its slower flow rate can provide better seal lubrication and reduce the risk of leaks caused by synthetic detergents cleaning out old deposits.

Maintenance and Cost: While synthetic oil costs 30–50% more per change, it lasts significantly longer, allowing intervals of 7,500 to 15,000 miles compared to the 3,000 to 5,000 miles typical for conventional oil. Most modern vehicles manufactured after 2010 require or recommend synthetic or synthetic-blend oil to meet efficiency standards, whereas older vehicles often function well with conventional oil if the manufacturer’s guidelines permit.

and...

Synthetic oil is predominantly derived from crude oil, but it can also be manufactured from natural gas or other chemical compounds.

• Crude Oil Origin: Most synthetic base stocks (such as API Group III) are highly refined and chemically altered products of crude oil, making them a more purified version of mineral oil.

The Delo 400 oil is another matter. The Shell Rotella T4 meets the ASO MA/MA2 standards. That means it is safe for use with a motorcycle's wet clutch. But the Delo??? I would rather give it away than take a chance ruining my clutch.

Chris

 

[Oldschool1]

Thanks Chris for the weigh in here . I will use the Dino Rotella T4 and stay away from the Delo400..

Much appreciated on the insight. So excited I get to use up the T4.

Thx!