Service, condition check with repair ST1100AX

increasing

increasing

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Joined
Feb 28, 2025
Messages
263
Location
Oslo, Norway
Bike
ST1100AX
Bought ST1100 on May 20, 2025 and today I finished the work without having to stress about it this winter, I have taken my time on the whole job. Attached is a list of everything that has been done on the bike at km 105554. Now waiting for dry roads and warmer weather for a test drive.

Service ST1100 12.02.2026 km 105762

Timing belt replaced km 91035 (MC Huset Nydal AS) OK
Recall checked, no remaining OK
VIN check OK
Engine number check OK
Paint code check OK
Test drive OK
Light test OK
Horn OK
Steering bearing check OK
Exhaust system OK
Swingarm rust check OK
Cardan oil change + o-ring and aluminum ring OK
Rear shock absorber installed new Hagon OK
Choke check OK
Instruments warning light pressure gauge etc check OK
Temperature gauge 1/4 driving 1/2 city traffic OK
Rear frame crack check OK
Air filter change OK
Fuel filter change OK
Spark plugs change OK
Engine oil change OK
Oil filter change OK
Oil plug gasket change OK
Clutch fluid change, level glass cleaned OK
Brake pads change front, pistons, sliders, greased brake calipers OK
Rear brake pads OK
Brakes check SMC OK
Battery change OK
Change to original screws on fairing parts OK
Drainage fuel filler check for opening down behind engine OK
Tank cap lubricate gasket with vaseline OK
Cleaned rims removed solder, polished + wax OK
Painted balancer weights for wheels OK
Charging at fast idle with choke without light 14.38V, with light 14.02V OK
Breath filter change OK
Install new decal left front fender OK
Install bolts for fastback with correct length plus 4 blind plugs OK
Replaced OEM contact and starter relay with power supply 30A OK
Replaced tires front and rear + new valves + gold balancer weights OK
Final drive splines differential replaced + lubricated + 3 new o-rings OK
Replaced bushings and seals with new oil front fork OK
Anti-Dive right suspension strut replaced gaskets bushings etc OK
Installed original windshield with protective strip OK
Replaced brass lining on clutch lever OK
Brake fluid replaced, level glass cleaned OK
Washed bike without fairing parts OK
Coolant replaced OK
Radiator cleaned OK
Thermostat with o-ring replaced OK
Coolant overflow hose checked / open OK
Hose thermostat housing - overflow tank 2.5 cm kink from housing check OK
Valve clearance checked adjust + noted measurements OK
Compression test engine performed, within tolerance and deviation (measurements noted) OK
Painted center support and side support OK
Fuel valve vacuum overhauled with repair kit OK

IMG_0921.jpeg
 
Sunday Rider said:
Nice work. Did you check the coolant hoses under the carbs and the aluminum elbows and their O ring?
Click to expand...
You can avoid a lot of work before it's necessary, «Leak Detection Without Removal Carbureter».
If you want to confirm the leak before disassembly, use a radiator pressure tester to pressurize the system to the cap rating. The pressure should hold steady; if it drops, it indicates a leak, likely from these components :thumb:
 
Wow. Quite a list. Even a decal. You did use the correct moly paste on the wheel splines, right? Loctite 8012 seems to be the juice of choice. Honda's Moly 77 which replaced the original mix is not good and will result in spline wear.

I sure hope you did not do the test rides in weather like we have had over here this winter!
 
SMSW said:
Wow. Quite a list. Even a decal. You did use the correct moly paste on the wheel splines, right? Loctite 8012 seems to be the juice of choice. Honda's Moly 77 which replaced the original mix is not good and will result in spline wear.

I sure hope you did not do the test rides in weather like we have had over here this winter!
Click to expand...
Test drive was carried out last fall, new test drive as soon as the weather gets warmer :thumb:
 
increasing said:
You can avoid a lot of work before it's necessary, «Leak Detection Without Removal Carbureter».
If you want to confirm the leak before disassembly, use a radiator pressure tester to pressurize the system to the cap rating. The pressure should hold steady; if it drops, it indicates a leak, likely from these components :thumb:
Click to expand...
The only problem with that is you can’t visually inspect the condition of the hoses at either end (clamps) or the O ring under the elbows for signs of hardening or residue.
The pressure test is a moment in time.
 
increasing said:
You can avoid a lot of work before it's necessary, «Leak Detection Without Removal Carbureter».
If you want to confirm the leak before disassembly, use a radiator pressure tester to pressurize the system to the cap rating. The pressure should hold steady; if it drops, it indicates a leak, likely from these components :thumb:
Click to expand...
Thats what I thought but when I had the carbs off I noticed the hose end on the block felt soft in one spot. Pressure tested and that spot had a bubble, Did not leak but it was certainly at the point where it could blow. Hoses don't last forever.
 
That’s a pretty good service. It looks nice.
A couple of questions. Are you able to lift out the ABS sensors? Don’t force them if you can’t, but it is worth cleaning up the magnetic face. If they do lift out, then clean them and re-grease the sides and the hole. Also, did you check the movement of the 3-pivot SMC bracket on the left front fork leg. It connects the left caliper bracket, the plunger for the SMC and the bracket on the fork leg, behind the grey shroud. It can get seized up.
 
Thanks :thumb: Have dismantled ABS sensors in connection with dismantling / repairing shock absorbers, i have test SMC, brakes, differential, tire change and more and of course washing, cleaning, lubricating before assembly where all functions are checked based on own experience with very good help from tips, advice and guides here on the forum.

I have tried to describe what I have done in the work list but of course there are many details that are not there, including hours of cleaning, polishing, washing parts. Such projects are all-consuming as just as much time is probably spent collecting, online for guidance, tips, advice and buying parts both new and used as in the garage.
 
Last edited:
I was just asking - you've done an incredible amount of work on the bike. Good fun, looking back on it isn't it?
The photo above is of the anti-dive mechanism which is on the right fork leg on the bikes equipped with ABS/CBS . The SMC mechanism to which I was referring is on the left fork leg.

These are the components that can get locked up - along with the bolts. bushes, bearings, cotters and clevice pins.

I mention - because I have done it recently and the whole assembly was locked absolutely solid - mainly rust. But it all came apart with a bit of prying and turning and it cleaned up really well. The roller bearings were fine - I cleaned them up with WD40 to get rid of the grease, washed them out with detergent and warm water, dried them out, and reapplied grease and made sure the rollers all turned ok. The pink metal plates needed severe wire brushing, a bit of draw-filing and painting. The captive nuts were cleaned up with thread cutting tap - easily as it happened.

ST1100 SMC Diagram.jpg


And this is a colouring in exercise. The same colour parts/arrows fit together.

ST1100 SMC Exploded Diagram Coloured Extract.jpg
 
Last edited:
Sorry for confusing SMC and Anti-Dive, it's obvious to everyone that English is not my everyday language without any need to explain anything away.
 
Warm-up "Blue" in great sunshine to test the cooling fan along with warning lights for CBS-ABS and TCS go out while driving. Starts very easily with full choke, quickly cruises up to 2500 rpm, gradually pulls off the choke until it runs at 8 - 900 rpm, warm engine is stuck at 1000 rpm. Just looking forward to the driving weather :thumb:

IMG_0996.jpeg
 
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