Slow speed wobble

STrangr

STrangr

Mike O.
Joined
Mar 20, 2015
Messages
349
Location
South Florida
Bike
2007 St-1300 Abs
STOC #
8841
Hi guys.
I recently completed a 3,000 miles trip from Florida to Ontario, and during the ride I noticed that when coming to a stop and sometime while accelerating from a dead stop the bike would wobble (That feeling when you are going too slow and are about to tip over forcing you to adjust with the handlebars.)
I had it before the trip, but being a new to me bike (first 1300cc) I dismissed it as the added weight which I was not used to.
But on the trip, with a passenger and loaded with gear it was very noticeable and exaggerated to the point where my wife asked me "why are you doing that?"
I tested it out today with out anything on the bike no gear or pillion and it was minimal but there.
I do have helibars on it pulled up and forward, could that be the cause? I checked on there website and they claim it actually reduced slow speed wobble.
any thoughts?

Mike
 
I'm experiencing the same thing, mine goes into the shop tomorrow for new steering head bearings. When the weight is off the front wheel take the handlebars and slowly move the bars from right to left, you might detect a slight notchy feeling at centre.
My bike is an 1100 but these are a couple of things I did. Tire pressure, make sure it's correct you can go to max. pressure indicated on the sidewall, but make sure you check when cold.
I also had the bearings retorqued but minimal difference.
Preload on my rear shock was too high and when I took it down it improved slightly.
I will report if I see improvement after getting the bearings changed out from roller to taper.
 
Check the fall away on the steering bearings.
Also check:
Front wheel bearings
Rear driven flange bearings
Preload adjuster fluid and setting
Check lash on rear shaft
And of course tire pressure
 
it may be coincidental for me but I noticed the problem just after I changed tires. I had Bridgestones before and I didn't notice a problem, then just after I put Avon's on and I noticed it. My bike has 165,000 km (102,000 miles) I don't think the front end has been dealt with so it may be long due for that kind of service.
Igofar mentions some other good things to check as well
 
Your bike is almost too new to have these problems due to bearing wear - but how many miles are on the clock? Since I had a high speed wobble (only in turbulent air as behind a semi) this spring after I cleverly adjusted the rear shock dampening (lighter than it was) and refilled the preload adjuster this is where I would point you. Simply increasing the preload half a turn and increasing the dampening a bit solved my problem.

Shock and tire adjustments are, of course, cheap and quick and should be the first things you check (they also tend to be free). What bothers me about your symptoms is that you are experiencing them at low speed, when, I would think, the shock plays a less significant role in handling.
 
What brand of tires are you running? ? Some brands will do that to your bike.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
I'm sorry guys, I should have given more details.
The bike only had 11,000 miles when I started the trip, and has almost 15,000 now.
I replaced the stock tires (which i also felt the wobble) with michelin road 4gt's. I also had the forks rebuilt and an oil change. All done right before the trip, under warrantee, so I didn't pay a dime.
During the trip, I adjust the rear half a turn firmer. I thought it was wise when all the added weight.
The side bags were pretty evenly loaded so it wasn't a balance issue. My tires are filled to 42psi and I checked and filled them several times along the way.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
 
2 up loaded for trip would probably need more than 1/2 turn more preload. Put some more preload in and try again.
 
kiltman said:
I'm experiencing the same thing, mine goes into the shop tomorrow for new steering head bearings. When the weight is off the front wheel take the handlebars and slowly move the bars from right to left, you might detect a slight notchy feeling at centre.
My bike is an 1100 but these are a couple of things I did. Tire pressure, make sure it's correct you can go to max. pressure indicated on the sidewall, but make sure you check when cold.
I also had the bearings retorqued but minimal difference.
Preload on my rear shock was too high and when I took it down it improved slightly.
I will report if I see improvement after getting the bearings changed out from roller to taper.
Click to expand...
Please let me know how it turns out. I am curious.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
 
I would think with the bike loaded, you prob need all the preload you have... Loaded up with the wife I almost max out the pre-load.
( btw just put a new set of pr4s on and I don't have a slow wobble so I doubt its the tires )

Another thing I would do is re-align the front axle since you had fork work done ( more for pulling but never know). I would wonder if the assemble method was properly followed with the pinch bolts and axle torqued and then loosened on left and tire bounce.

At least its an easy and no $ thing to do that takes about 5 mins.
 
Some thoughts in order of complexity to check.
0) Tire pressure. (I run PR4 GTs and don't experience this)
1) Front wheel axle alignment, bounced when wheel put back on? (I would think this would show up at speed also, but,,,,)
2) Forks aligned at top of triple clamp?
3) Brake rotors warped, pads dragging? (You'd feel this while breaking at slow speed especially)
4) Front wheel bearing play?
5) Steering stem/head bearings notchy/loose?
6) Rear swing arm play/driveline lash?
7) Right amount of oil in forks?

I'm leaning toward that front fork rebuild and subsequent reassembly.
 
Yup could be steering head bearings, too tight or notched. Were tapered bearings fitted? If so these are very sensitive to being over-tightened and will cause a low-speed weave. The OEM ball bearings are more forgiving of differences in torque and provide better steering feel.
 
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At 15,000 miles I would only check the bearings as a last item. They last a very long time. On the other hand, the ST1300 is under sprung for any two up riding unless the rider is 185 lbs or less and the pillion is a blow up doll. Two up and loaded it needs every bit of shock preload available and it's common for a stock-never-serviced rear shock to lose half of the available preload travel in a few years. I'd check the preload adjuster first....does it give resistance from the first turn or does it take many turns to develop any resistance? It is easy to refill and top off the preload adjuster but the spring is another matter. Most North American couples need a 1200 or 1300 lb rear spring in place of the stock 900 lb one.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?106715-ST1300-Pre-load-Fluid-Replacement
 
Just back from the dealer. My low speed wobble has disappeared. New steering head bearings and the fork oil changed out. Having said that, not sure if that is what is wrong with your bike. Check out other members suggestions first and work on a process of elimination. That's what I did and this was my last one on my list.
 
If the fork work was under warranty, would this not come under the same heading? Let Honda do it, if you trust them.
 
Tom Mac 04a said:
I would think with the bike loaded, you prob need all the preload you have... Loaded up with the wife I almost max out the pre-load.
( btw just put a new set of pr4s on and I don't have a slow wobble so I doubt its the tires )

Another thing I would do is re-align the front axle since you had fork work done ( more for pulling but never know). I would wonder if the assemble method was properly followed with the pinch bolts and axle torqued and then loosened on left and tire bounce.

At least its an easy and no $ thing to do that takes about 5 mins.
Click to expand...



+1 on this alignment procedure - especially if the bike has more of a slow speed weave as opposed to a wobble.

Ray
 
My ST was rock solid, until I changed tires. I've had to slow down a bit, when I have the top case installed.
When I change tires I'm not going to use Shinko 011's.
 
kiltman said:
it may be coincidental for me but I noticed the problem just after I changed tires. I had Bridgestones before and I didn't notice a problem, then just after I put Avon's on and I noticed it. My bike has 165,000 km (102,000 miles) I don't think the front end has been dealt with so it may be long due for that kind of service.
Igofar mentions some other good things to check as well
Click to expand...
I found Avons to wobble more. Used them twice on the Black, and both fronts got a shimmy to them after a shorter time than any of the other sets I used. I ran a 160/60 rear 120/70 front shinko Verge set on the Two Tone and it swam like a fish down the road, Same tires on the Black were rock solid. The front is still on the Black, but about half worn, with a 170/60 Raven on the rear, I am getting a shake, and it is getting worse. Soon to swap on an Avon Road Rider Front/Rear in 110/80 and we shall see how that works.
That's my findings on 1100s, sorry, can't help much with 1300s

edit: I should note that the wobble never really bothered me, even at its worst, I could damp it out. Now if it did it at a higher speed it might have been a different story
 
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