Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow,it's hopefully something simple,I got great satisfaction from doing the work myself,I think I got everything back together ok,apart from the speedo, and made sure the wheel was on tight.
speedometer quit working
- Thread starter Omaha_LA
- Start date
Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow,it's hopefully something simple,I got great satisfaction from doing the work myself,I think I got everything back together ok,apart from the speedo, and made sure the wheel was on tight.
I had the same thing happen to me when I replaced the front tire. I didn't align the tab of the speedo cable up with the slot on the drive gear before I tighten it all up. Snapped the slotted pieces right off in the first couple of miles. Ordered a good used one off eBay and I am back in business.
0.5 miles in my case... actually on 2 different bikes that I changed the front tires on, on the same day! DOH!
I jacked her up again and removed the cable,the spline at the wheel was turning when I spun the front wheel,so the problem had to be in the cable,I then lined up the cable with the spline, screwed it in place and went for a short run,it's working again!!
dunno what I done before or how it managed not to break off when it wasn't installed correctly,but it's working now and that's all that matters.
dunno what I done before or how it managed not to break off when it wasn't installed correctly,but it's working now and that's all that matters.
HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!
Mine has just begun with a speedo issue, with just over a week before the M.O.T (Ministry of Transport here in UK) Road Minimum Saftey Inspection, but the house is still buried deep in Christmas tree , tinsel and lights, not to mention the paper factory on the floor from wrappings......I love it usually, but now I cannot for the life of me find my haynes manual!!! I know it's an old post but that's why I am here, so much good advice and opinion. Anybody got any pictures or procedures for this topic, please.
Regarding the above, "I didn't align the tab of the speedo cable up with the slot on the drive gear before I tighten it all up. Snapped the slotted pieces right off in the first couple of miles", a picture of a healthy one would help me. Thanks in advance, and Happy New Year again. Cheers
No pictures I'm afraid but you first need to check it's attached on either end and then that the cable is in one piece. If not a problem there, it's probably the hub drive. Or at least that's what I think.
But they won't test your speedo will they? I don't think the brake tester would turn quick enough to show.
Upt'North.
Last edited:
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
If you pull the end of the cable out of the wheel drive, you can attach an electric drill to the cable. If you run the drill in reverse, you can get enough RPMs to register on the Speedometer. Usually either the cable is broke or the wheel drive is messed up. I've not seen the speedo itself fail very often over my history with ST1100.
I think we inherited the British system of MOT(our yearly vehicle inspection) here, similar system of testing brakes, lights, exhaust emissions/noise level etc in order to get a certificate for tax/insurance renewal...
I don't think the roller drum speed would trigger anything noticeable on the speedo or we'll be flung off the bike
Off topic, but they do get serious with anything visible that is non original on the bikes(LED headlights, silencers and everything else) that we have to put original parts to get inspection to passed.
Thank you all very much for your comments and advice. With them giving me some courage I proceeded to correctly diagnose and replace said broken speedo cable. I have since found my Haynes Manual (Whoopee! I actually put it away in a draw safely!) but whey hey....I also guessed correctly... the right way to go about replacing it.
Initially I thought I would have to reach underneath the body fairing and stretch and contort arms wrist and neck, but thankfully I was wrong. A few pics included and notes for anyone else who can’t find their repair manual! Sorry if it's an essay.
1. Remove wind shield , trim and inner shield. For convenience, though not absolutely necessary, I also removed the small fairing panel just above the front forks, which sits beneath the headlight set.
2. On ABS/TCS or CBS/LBS ABS/TCS models (latter being mine), remove two securing bolts holding ignition control unit. I also disconnected the smaller connector at the back to get free movement but the book says you don’t have to. I suggest also putting a piece of soft cloth over the lip of the housing – as in the picture – to protect your plastics, it’s a bit fiddly undoing the nuts.
3. Unscrew the knurled ring holding the speedo cable to the rear instrument cluster
.
4. Remove screw which holds the lower end of the speedo cable on left side of front wheel .
Bothe ends should now be free, remove from bike noting the route that the cable takes. Take pictures, it always helps.
Replace cable. The lower connecting mechanism I found can be a pain to get right alignment first time, so I weighted the bike backwards, lifting front wheel off floor an inch or so. Then when offering cable up to wheel speedo hub mechanism, you can gently rock it into place, by rolling the wheel back and forth. It pops in and snugs up tight to the main body – even before tightening up the screw. I did the bottom speedo cable connection first. Spinning the wheel is also a quick way to see if the speedo hub is working, as advised above.
One last note. My supplier provided me with a replacement cable as ‘fit for my machine’ but physically it was three to four inches shorter. (Not to be confused with the shorter cable which is snapped in photo) Yes, the new shorter cable does work and no, there seems to be no problem around the headset, having enough slack etc. YET! I will be checking it though.
Cheers.
Initially I thought I would have to reach underneath the body fairing and stretch and contort arms wrist and neck, but thankfully I was wrong. A few pics included and notes for anyone else who can’t find their repair manual! Sorry if it's an essay.
1. Remove wind shield , trim and inner shield. For convenience, though not absolutely necessary, I also removed the small fairing panel just above the front forks, which sits beneath the headlight set.
2. On ABS/TCS or CBS/LBS ABS/TCS models (latter being mine), remove two securing bolts holding ignition control unit. I also disconnected the smaller connector at the back to get free movement but the book says you don’t have to. I suggest also putting a piece of soft cloth over the lip of the housing – as in the picture – to protect your plastics, it’s a bit fiddly undoing the nuts.
3. Unscrew the knurled ring holding the speedo cable to the rear instrument cluster
.
4. Remove screw which holds the lower end of the speedo cable on left side of front wheel .
Bothe ends should now be free, remove from bike noting the route that the cable takes. Take pictures, it always helps.
Replace cable. The lower connecting mechanism I found can be a pain to get right alignment first time, so I weighted the bike backwards, lifting front wheel off floor an inch or so. Then when offering cable up to wheel speedo hub mechanism, you can gently rock it into place, by rolling the wheel back and forth. It pops in and snugs up tight to the main body – even before tightening up the screw. I did the bottom speedo cable connection first. Spinning the wheel is also a quick way to see if the speedo hub is working, as advised above.
One last note. My supplier provided me with a replacement cable as ‘fit for my machine’ but physically it was three to four inches shorter. (Not to be confused with the shorter cable which is snapped in photo) Yes, the new shorter cable does work and no, there seems to be no problem around the headset, having enough slack etc. YET! I will be checking it though.
Cheers.
Attachments
-
Observe Speed Drive..jpg -
Pan European ST1100 Lower Screw Speedo Cable .jpg -
Speedo Drive Cable Top Access.jpg -
ST 1100 Snapped Speedo Cable Visual Check.jpg -
TCS Ignition Control Box Bolt Farthest From Speedo Drive.jpg -
TCS Ignition Control Box Bolt Nearest Speedo Drive.jpg -
TCS Ignition Control Box Remove To Access Speedo Drive.jpg
Can't just the inner cable be replaced, and from the bottom?
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Pretty tough to make sure it is properly seated in my experience.
Plus you would be pulling the inner cable out of brand new outer cable because I don't believe you can buy just the inner cable.
But I could be wrong as I have been before.
Well, there are two part numbers, 44831-443-720 and 44830-MT3-000 . . .Pretty tough to make sure it is properly seated in my experience.
Plus you would be pulling the inner cable out of brand new outer cable because I don't believe you can buy just the inner cable.
But I could be wrong as I have been before.
First, one of each on Ebay:
New Sealed Genuine Honda 44831 MM5 000 Cable Inner OEM Part Japan 44831-MM5-000 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for New Sealed Genuine Honda 44831 MM5 000 Cable Inner OEM Part Japan 44831-MM5-000 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Then, one in the UK:
And, wherever this is:
Plus, a universal cable:
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Well, once again I have been edmucated! 
I merely copied each number from Partzilla, then did a Google search.Well, once again I have been edmucated!
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
I've always bought (one time) the whole assembly and was working from memory - hence I said I could be wrong.
This Google thingie - is it pretty handy or do they steal your soul if you use it?
This Google thingie - is it pretty handy or do they steal your soul if you use it?
Shawn K
Professional Cat Confuser
Only if you let it take your picture.
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
That might bring it down - sort of like that '4th of July' movie ...
Last edited:
"I've always bought (one time) the whole assembly and was working from memory - hence I said I could be wrong. "
I don't think so. At least not in the US, from Honda.
The number listed, 44831-MM5-000 and 44831-MAG-G40 (ABS) are listed but show not available. That is on PartsFish.com. Maybe David Silver Spares has one squirreled away. If the inner cable broke, it may have shredded the inner plastic tube which could shorten the life of the new inner cable.
ABS https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c1825f870023420a2e97a/speedometer-2
STD https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c17adf870023420a2e796/speedometer-1
"I don't think so. At least not in the US, from Honda.
The number listed, 44831-MM5-000 and 44831-MAG-G40 (ABS) are listed but show not available. That is on PartsFish.com. Maybe David Silver Spares has one squirreled away. If the inner cable broke, it may have shredded the inner plastic tube which could shorten the life of the new inner cable.
ABS https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c1825f870023420a2e97a/speedometer-2
STD https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c17adf870023420a2e796/speedometer-1
Last edited:
Ordinarily I would much prefer to reuse everything as much as possible, to truly wear them out, (even to put to use(s) that they were not originally designed to be used for) but things generally and increasingly, it seems to me, to be made to be replaced as complete sets. As this cable was complete, inner and outer for total of £6.50, with a one year warranty, all clean ready to go...I never had to think about it. It's on an working fine. Time will tell.