Spyball alarm locating ?

punchy6538

Punchy
Joined
Jul 17, 2023
Messages
24
Age
64
Location
Lancashire UK
Bike
St1100 1991
Hi, I have an st1100 1991, there is a spyball alarm fitted to which I'd like to fit a recently purchased bypass plug.. any ideas as to where on the bike it is, or could be ??? Thanks in advance.
 
I'd assume that the alarm unit residents in the tailcone...
Remove seat and check the space in front of the tail-light sockets...
 
ST1100Y said:
I'd assume that the alarm unit residents in the tailcone...
Remove seat and check the space in front of the tail-light sockets...
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Hi .. yep it's there . .. just been for a run out on bike, got back home and it wouldn't start, showing 12.50 on multi meter .. does that mean battery is no good ? Thanks
 
punchy6538 said:
Hi .. yep it's there . .. just been for a run out on bike, got back home and it wouldn't start, showing 12.50 on multi meter .. does that mean battery is no good ? Thanks
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hard to say, you never answered some of the questions that were asked over on the other thread that would help determine the state of the battery, or why it sometimes starts sometimes doesn't.
 
dwalby said:
hard to say, you never answered some of the questions that were asked over on the other thread that would help determine the state of the battery, or why it sometimes starts sometimes doesn't.
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Hi, I'm not very technically minded, I'm presuming that when I pressed the starter, the voltage drops to around 7v so not powerful enough to turn over engine.so that would also elevate some of the other problems.. once I had the battery fully charged it would fire strong enough... I'm off to my local bike shop in the morning to get it tested and replaced..
 
punchy6538 said:
Hi, I'm not very technically minded, I'm presuming that when I pressed the starter, the voltage drops to around 7v so not powerful enough to turn over engine.so that would also elevate some of the other problems.. once I had the battery fully charged it would fire strong enough... I'm off to my local bike shop in the morning to get it tested and replaced..
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correct. If its strong it should be able to hold 11.0v or within a few tenths of that while cranking. 7v doesn't sound good.

if its a little weak it will turn over very slowly, if a lot weak it won't turn over at all. I'm not sure if you ever specified the mode it fails in, but I think you meant that when it fails it doesn't turn over at all, just the clicking of the starter relay, right?
 
dwalby said:
correct. If its strong it should be able to hold 11.0v or within a few tenths of that while cranking. 7v doesn't sound good.

if its a little weak it will turn over very slowly, if a lot weak it won't turn over at all. I'm not sure if you ever specified the mode it fails in, but I think you meant that when it fails it doesn't turn over at all, just the clicking of the starter relay, right?
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Hi, yes.. turns ok then starts to slow down pretty quick, then clicks then nothing apart from dash lights ..
 
punchy6538 said:
Hi, yes.. turns ok then starts to slow down pretty quick, then clicks then nothing apart from dash lights ..
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yeah, that sounds like it will fail the load test when you take it in.

FWIW, the reason you were being led to believe that your battery was OK, is because multimeters draw almost no current while measuring voltage. So, you see the voltage with no load applied, which appears to be good, but its not a real world test. When a real world load is applied then the battery isn't capable of providing enough current, its voltage sags below the acceptable level, and its essentially dead at that point. It will sometimes continue to take a charge and provide what looks like a good voltage with no load, but can't provide any useful work.
 
dwalby said:
yeah, that sounds like it will fail the load test when you take it in.

FWIW, the reason you were being led to believe that your battery was OK, is because multimeters draw almost no current while measuring voltage. So, you see the voltage with no load applied, which appears to be good, but its not a real world test. When a real world load is applied then the battery isn't capable of providing enough current, its voltage sags below the acceptable level, and its essentially dead at that point. It will sometimes continue to take a charge and provide what looks like a good voltage with no load, but can't provide any useful work.
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Thanks, Dwalby you've explained that perfectly..
 
punchy6538 said:
Thanks, Dwalby you've explained that perfectly..
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Hi, update.... Alarm capped off. New battery installed as previous one was spent. Problems in the previous thread and this thread seem to be gone. Latest ..:- Went for 100 mile spin on it, ran great then on way back felt like it was missing some power .. slight misfire, pulled plugs out, all dry and ok apart from number 1 cylinder, plug was wet with fuel. Plug cap and HT lead seem ok . New plug fitted, just waiting to get out on bike again to see if it's cured it .
 
punchy6538 said:
Hi, I'm not very technically minded, I'm presuming that when I pressed the starter, the voltage drops to around 7v so not powerful enough to turn over engine.so that would also elevate some of the other problems.. once I had the battery fully charged it would fire strong enough... I'm off to my local bike shop in the morning to get it tested and replaced..
Click to expand...
" just been for a run out on bike, got back home and it wouldn't start " sound to me as if the bike is not charging if is was charging you wouldn't have to charge it to get it to start. "once I had the battery fully charged it would fire strong enough " charge it, start it, make sure running it's somewhere 13-14v. If it's below 12 you have a alternator issue
 
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