ST hibernation how do you do it?

[Bush]

Run it, or don't run it over the winter - it seems both methods work well for people. For my two 1100's over the course of 26 years, I have run them once a month over their 5 - 6 month lay up and do notice if I extend that time on occasion, it does take longer engine cranking for the float bowls to fill and fire the engine. That tells me that fuel is evaporating out of those carbs.

I fill up with ethanol free fuel a couple of times as the end of riding season approaches and then add some stabilizer to the topped off tank. I also change oil and filter before storage, which is in an unheated garage.

Never had to tear into the carbs in all those years, so for me it seems to prevent gummy carbs. However, it is important to run the engine long enough to fully heat the engine and exhaust system, both to prevent condensation from forming inside the engine from a short run and rusting of the exhaust pipes and collector from the water produced by combustion. I run it for about 20 minutes each time, varying the revs, like Uncle Phil.

Top off the tank occasionally over the winter run times to prevent condensation in the fuel tank. The battery tender does triple duty, switching from the Honda to the Royal Enfield to the Honda generator every few weeks.

The RE is fuel injected, so it just gets an ethanol free fill up with stabilizer and no monthly run.

 

[Bee]

Thank you for the replies chaps. I appreciate the collective wisdom. What I take from this is that even though we do different things , everyone does consider the winter lay up and do something. The result being no one seems to have major issues come Springtime.

 

[TourNut]

Also starting them up several times during winter also dumps water into the exhaust systems when cold . If you don't run it long enough to get exhaust system good & hot to dry out the water , water just sets in there , rusting for months , especially non-stainless steel exhaust system parts .

 

[Weaselinsuit]

Now, if someone could just figure out how to deal with the jonesing from lack of riding for 5 months........

 

[ReSTored]

I'm curious about people with battery tenders (like Battery Tender or Optimate) who use them once every couple of weeks or once a month vs. just connecting them in the fall and running them continuously until when you're ready to run the bike in the spring. I connect mine and then just let it run the full storage period. I usually get 8 - 9 years out of a battery. Why bother going through the hassle of connecting it for a day or so, then disconnecting, then connecting all winter long.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Why bother going through the hassle of connecting it for a day or so, then disconnecting, then connecting all winter long.

Most of the reasons that I have read seem to boil down to a lack of trust that the maintainer will not over charge the battery. This seems to defeat the purpose of having a maintainer, as opposed to a charger, to me.

I have a maintainer and do not leave it connected all winter either, not because I don't trust it but for a different reason. Once the bike is parked for the winter, I take the battery out of it and put it in to the snowblower. This will happen tomorrow or the day after, and is always a sad day for the bike, the blower, and me.

 

[DeanR]

I'm curious about people with battery tenders (like Battery Tender or Optimate) who use them once every couple of weeks or once a month vs. just connecting them in the fall and running them continuously until when you're ready to run the bike in the spring. I connect mine and then just let it run the full storage period. I usually get 8 - 9 years out of a battery. Why bother going through the hassle of connecting it for a day or so, then disconnecting, then connecting all winter long.

I use the Deltran Battery Tender all year long Phil. Never a problem. I ride in the winter when the roads aren't white.

 

[sky.high]

Change the oil & filter, fill up with premium fuel plus 220ml seafoam, run it a bit then loving throw a duct cover over it till spring, monthly visits are allowed to feed the battery for a day or so.

 

[Chris09]

I was going to ask about condensation in the exhaust or if there's a couple little drain holes that can be poked clear. I'm not sure how long I'm running the engine for but I wait until the fog clears and the mufflers heat up they seem to get pretty hot and retain heat for a while after shutting off, but I'm only assuming I've boiled off any condensation. It's a real problem on one vehicle I have where the mufflers just don't get hot enough, but I've got a good inclined driveway I roll it up and the condensation drains out the small muffler holes, a fair bit of water.

I wonder also about whether leaving the fuel pump submerged in stagnant ethanol or even non ethanol gas for an extended time would contribute to it's failure, the only tank submerged fuel pump failure I've ever had has been in a regular gas vehicle that I almost never drive.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

I wonder also about whether leaving the fuel pump submerged in stagnant ethanol or even non ethanol gas for an extended time would contribute to it's failure, the only tank submerged fuel pump failure I've ever had has been in a regular gas vehicle that I almost never drive.

I don't see that there is any connection between the fuel pump being submerged and its failure. Because of its location, the fuel pump is always submerged in gas whether the vehicle is being used or not, as a fuel pump that is not submerged in fuel is in a tank that is out of gas.

 

[Bee]

I'm curious about people with battery tenders (like Battery Tender or Optimate) who use them once every couple of weeks or once a month vs. just connecting them in the fall and running them continuously until when you're ready to run the bike in the spring. I connect mine and then just let it run the full storage period. I usually get 8 - 9 years out of a battery. Why bother going through the hassle of connecting it for a day or so, then disconnecting, then connecting all winter long.

I just connect my battery trickle chargers and leave them. (I use Oxford brand just because they are reasonably priced in the UK and I’ve never had any faults with them) I buy ones designed to be left on all the time. Every time I go through the garage I take a quick peak and they are on, but not charging, just maintaining /sleep mode. I have never had any trouble at all and when I fire up the battery is full of charge. You can press a button and they will do a quick ‘check’ and within maybe 10 seconds settle back into sleep mode.

 

[Bee]

I don't see that there is any connection between the fuel pump being submerged and its failure. Because of its location, the fuel pump is always submerged in gas whether the vehicle is being used or not, as a fuel pump that is not submerged in fuel is in a tank that is out of gas.

Fair point and TBH I never even considered that. I suppose it’s the thought that at least moving liquid (petrol) through the pump/mechanism (by running the bike) keeps things jiggled up and free/clear even though, and I take your point, it’s the same petrol whether you do this or not. Does modern petrol actually settle and even though it’s clear will the heavier constituents settle out into a layer at the bottom of the tank over time?

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Does modern petrol actually settle and even though it’s clear will the heavier constituents settle out into a layer at the bottom of the tank over time?

Assuming that the quality of fuel in the UK is the same as it is North America, there is little concern for contaminants that were delivered with the fuel. Modern fuels are so clean that many vehicles no longer have replaceable fuel filters. One of my vehicles is like that, and it is a 2010.

The biggest danger is from water, which will settle at the bottom of the tank as it is heavier than the fuel. This is why there is the heightened level of concern over fuels with high ethanol content. Storing the motorcycle with a combination of a full fuel tank to limit the volume of air exchanges due to temperature changes, filling the tank with non-ethanol or low ethanol content fuel, and using fuel conditioners/stabilizers that are designed to deal with ethanol have proven effective under most normal storage conditions.

I would add that an additional task related to fuel that should be performed as part of the storage routine is to make sure that the tube that drains the area around the filler neck is clear and free of obstructions and is actually capable of evacuating fluids. Treating it with a rust inhibitor of some sort is a good idea as well. This drain tube passes directly through the fuel tank. If it is blocked and can not evacuate liquids, the standing moisture will eventually cause rusting of the tube. If a perforation develops, this will allow fuel to drain out of and/or water to find its way in to the tank. The repair is replacing the fuel tank. This task takes but a few minutes, but is time well spent as preventative maintenance.

 

[STmark1300]

I have tried to find the stabil storage locally. Unable to find it I bought the 360. Will that do the job for the winter or should I hold out for the storage stabil?

 

[sherob]

I have tried to find the stabil storage locally. Unable to find it I bought the 360. Will that do the job for the winter or should I hold out for the storage stabil?

If you can find Seafoam, it'll work in a pinch... it's good for 2 years. It looks like the 360 is good for 1 year, so it should work as well.

Considering the fuel ratio of 1 ounce to 2.5 gallons, Stabil is relatively more economical than Seafoam by two and a half times. However, if you’re contemplating Seafoam vs. stabil 360, Seafoam stabilizes fuel twice (24 months) more than Stabil 360 (12 months).

Seafoam Vs. Stabil – Which Fuel Stabilizer is Preferable | Rx Mechanic

Seafoam Vs. Stabil is a heated debate. So, choosing between the two depends on some critical factors the eyes cannot determine. This post unveils the facts.

rxmechanic.com

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[rwthomas1]

Bike stored in unheated garage. Change the oil/filter a few hundred miles before storage, full tank with Marine Stabil, plug in 800mAh Battery Tender, put it on the center stand. Toss some mouse bait near the tires, cover with an old blanket and come back in Spring.

 

[Oldbikefixr]

My part of Texas doesn't need the same degree of storage prep more northern states require. Our garage seals nicely but isn't heated/cooled. I ride throughout the winter as often as rain and ice conditions permit, our low temps are rarely relevant. We have had several winters with month long cold rains so I do prep the bike....weather guy accuracy and all that... I do keep the tanks full and add Seafoam after every fill up, park on the center stand. Covers and battery tender when bad riding weather comes to town for a few day stretch. My most annoying issue is that dust still collects on the painted surfaces even with the covers on. Static buildup on the plastic when buffing wax? The full size covers are short term use so no vents.

 

[CDNolddude]

I’m also in Ontario and I usually pay the dealer to store it in heated warehouse. Just got told they will no longer do that, so bike will be sitting in the unheated garage. Guess it will be oil/filter change, unleaded fuel with stabilizer. I use to bring the battery into the basement to charge. Are you guys with really cold winters leaving the battery in the bike on battery tender? When I had my Bonnie, I also put a little oil in exhausts and stuffed with rags.