ST1100 Brake service advice (w/o ABS)

1morebike

1morebike

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Joined
Jul 17, 2017
Messages
19
Location
Columbus ohio
Bike
'96 ST 1100
Hello all,

Working on my '96 ST1100 non abs with less than 25% of the brake linings left at best, so I'll be doing 3 sets. Still shopping for OE Honda pads and from what I've read I could use 3 sets of the same if need be (confirmation ?). The bike has just under 50K so I assume the front pads have likely been replaced before. About 3 years ago when replacing tires and servicing the final drive I replaced brake fluid by just opening the bleeders and keeping the lines flowing.

My better judgement tells me to service the calipers and flush the system, but if the fluid has been changed frequently during the life of the bike, is the procedure really necessary ? In either case I would have new fluid. The PO took very good care of the bike, but I don't know for sure about maintaining brake fluid. When I last flushed it, it was very clean.

If servicing the calipers, would just replacing piston seals suffice ? Are any complete kits available of good quality ?
 
Since you second the notion, I feel fine about leaving it be, as the brakes have always worked well. I suppose I can look at other seals the same way. The engine doesn't leak oil, so I'm not going to tear it down to replace all the seals and gaskets, eh ? I've often used brake fluid on rubber products like stereo/turntable idler wheels, grommets and such as it helps rejuvenate, so just as well I suppose. Thanks for the quick reply !
 
1morebike said:
from what I've read I could use 3 sets of the same if need be
Click to expand...
Uhm... the rear pads are much thicker to provide better heat dissipation...

P/N 06435MT3405, Pad Set, Rr Brake
pad-setrr-brake-nas_medium06435MT3405-01_467c.jpg

P/N 45105ML7405, Pad Set, Fr Brake

pad-setfr-brake-nas_medium45105ML7405-01_58d3.jpg
 
I thought that the rear pads are thicker because they tend to wear down faster - otherwise the service interval would have to be reduced. They get more road crud chucked up at them.

But:

1morebike said:
I could use 3 sets of the same if need be (confirmation ?).
Click to expand...

Not really. You see that little notch in the tab end of the rear brakes ? That matches with the chrome retainer clip fitted to the rear caliper. The front pads do not have that notch. If you put front pads in the rear caliper, the ridge in the chrome retainer clip will jam the brake pad in place so it will not be able to move away from the disk when the pedal is released. It will bind.

Now you could in theory put rear pads in the front - but new ones have too much friction material for that.
(I believe that the non ABS 2-pot calipers have the same size backing plate on the ST1100)

You could go for aftermarket pads :mad: (It's OK, I'm a self procaimed know-all, so I know that I have to wash my mouth with soap and water after such a statement) - they use the recognised rear backing plate (with the notch) for all of their pads, and they are the same thickness - front and rear. They also have two friction pads per backing plate instead of 4 - which gives less chance for the road grot to be cleared away - so they wear the pads (and presumabley the disk surface) faster. The fit has been questioned on here on more than one occasion. Mine created a noise which remindend me of coarse sandpaper on stone. I did try them once and I learned everything that I need to know from the experience. I buy a full set of Honda pads each time. I tend to change pads too early, so I keep the old ones clean and stowed away. They would probably do 4,000 miles. I can't be bothered to put them on and try.

Sorry, I cannot name the company whos pads I tried. I've forgotten how to spell it.
 
I would change the rear fluid more often. At least every year. It gets real hot back there and you don't want the pedal to hit the floor. Like you say it changes itself easily.
Ask me how I know! On second thoughts don't.
Upt.
 
I changed the fluid every 2 years. Easy to do and cheap.

When everything is apart pull the pistons out and clean them, carefully clean out the grooves in the bore of the caliper the seals fit in, new seals. Remove, clean and lube caliper pins. Clean pad pins, lightly lube Use OEM pads, as noted above the rear are not the same as the front.

When I had my ST I'd clean the brakes at least once per season. This meant pulling wheels (often doing a tire change anyways...........) , removing pads in a caliper, cleaning pads, pumping out pistons and cleaning them using a strip of rag and cleaning pad pins. Then pads went back in and I'd do the next caliper. I used a small piece of 1/4" plywood as a spacer for the calipers I was not working on. The full stripping and cleaning, as per second paragraph, was done every second year along with the fluid change. Not necessary to change seals every time you do this, I reused them most often and replaced them once as a PM item.

Did 140,000 km over about 20 season with above procedure, never any brake issues.
 
A front pad can be used on the rear if you cut or grind the notch into the pad. BTDT And of course you can put a rear on the front if it’s worn down sufficiently. HNDT

John
 
Really appreciate everyone weighing in. I ordered the Honda parts of proper spec for front and rear. I'll carefully inspect the caliper assembly, clean and relube the slides/pad pins and leave it at that. If I were planning on any long trips this year, I would go ReStored's route.

The manual calls for a light coating of silicone grease on the pins. Has any spec superseded this or any will high temp variety suffice ? I have many different types of grease on hand. Just wondering since my manual was published in '96.
 
Before you push possibly dirty pistons back into a caliper, you would be better to pump the pistons out a little(!) so you can clean around them thoroughly; I use an old shoelace dipped in brake fluid and wrapped around the piston to scrub away any build-up. If you need more cleaning then a green scotchbrite is pretty good.
 
1morebike said:
The manual calls for a light coating of silicone grease on the pins. Has any spec superseded this or any will high temp variety suffice ? I have many different types of grease on hand. Just wondering since my manual was published in '96.
Click to expand...
Just avoid anything containing traces of petroleum/mineral oils, which might cause the rubber inlays to swell...
I've used white ceramic paste as well as silicone O-ring grease (for scuba dive gear); red rubber grease should also do fine.
Some dabs of high-temp copper grease on the relevant contact patches and areas on the brake pads, especially the holding pin and the slotted small cover plate, as those tend to corrosion-weld themself into the caliper bore/threads...
BTW: if there any dark spots or scratches found on the caliper pistons, I'd replace them...
 
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