ST1100 Cracked Block
- Thread starter rcmcy
- Start date
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Yes, but they only sell to retailers...
Thanx for the link anyway, bookmarked and will torment them to divulge their selling channels...
? 72,- for the 5ltr jug isn't seriously expensive either...
SuperCool with Water Wetter by Redline may be comparable to the Evans stuff. Anyone know ??
See : Redline Water Wetter and SuperCool
I use the Water Wetter, BTW. Can't hurt, and maybe it helps.
See : Redline Water Wetter and SuperCool
I use the Water Wetter, BTW. Can't hurt, and maybe it helps.
maybe for wine.....
what is this coolant stuff you guys are talking about, and why would you ever need (or want) to change it?
Jim, I'm planning a trip to Flint to get some water to mix into my coolant.
Water Wetter is suppose to increase heat transfer by eliminating very small air bubbles in the coolant.
Governor Snyder has 2 gallons of that Flint water that he claims he will drink over the next 30 days. I bet he would donate you some. And it will be a closer ride for you to Lansing than Flint, BTW. I would add some baking soda to get the PH closer to 7 , though.
That reminds me, I should have my well water tested ........
Governor Snyder has 2 gallons of that Flint water that he claims he will drink over the next 30 days. I bet he would donate you some. And it will be a closer ride for you to Lansing than Flint, BTW. I would add some baking soda to get the PH closer to 7 , though.
That reminds me, I should have my well water tested ........
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I think lead is a good heat conductor!
bdalameda
PaleoCyclist
The difference in coolants with and without water is that any coolant with water in it will begin to boil depending on the pressure in the system at around 265 deg. F.
In small pockets inside the cooling jackets especially inside the head and near the cylinder walls the coolant can exceed this temperature at times and a hot spot can form an air bubble from the boiling, this stops the heat transfer of the coolant. This can cause a runaway condition as the hot spot will over pressure the system and a boil over can occur. It is rare in any ST1100 or ST1300 to reach anywhere close to this unless there is a water pump or thermostat problem. There could be a hot spot at the area around where some have reported cracks due to poor circulation - I really don't know for sure.
A waterless coolant will not boil at 265 deg. F. and is good to about 375 Deg. F. so these higher temperature spots in the cooling system will not create a bubble there and the coolant though very hot will continue to transfer heat from this area. I have experienced having a water pump impeller failure on my dirt bike some years back while riding in the desert about 20 miles from camp. I was using Evans waterless coolant at the time and did not experience any boil over and was able to ride 20 mies back to camp even with a severely overheated engine. The engine had no damage what so ever from this and I continued to ride the bike for several more years after replacing the water pump. Any coolant with water in it would have failed miserably under these conditions and it would have resulted in a blown engine. What confuses so many is that a water based coolant on paper looks to transfer heat better than a pure propylene glycol like Evans. While Evans coolant does retain heat a bit more than water it will not fail anywhere close to where a water based coolant will. The cooling capacity of the ST Hondas is plenty sufficient to maintain proper cooling using waterless coolants as the thermostat is really what ultimately controls the temperature along with the airflow through the radiator. Some have reported that the cooling fan cycles more often using Evans coolant while stopped in traffic - I have not experienced this on my ST. It is interesting that with an engine running Evans you can actually open the radiator cap with a hot engine and no coolant will blow out as it would with coolant that has water in it - this is due to the very high boiling point of waterless coolant.
The other advantage of waterless coolants is that there is no corrosive effects from the coolant so water jackets, radiators etc. will not degrade over time. Essentially waterless coolant is permanent and does not require changing. The reason that coolant usually need to be changed is the oxides in the system buildup and the anti corrosive additives in coolant with water degrade and require changing. Without the water no corrosion and the coolant never needs changing.
Just my .02
In small pockets inside the cooling jackets especially inside the head and near the cylinder walls the coolant can exceed this temperature at times and a hot spot can form an air bubble from the boiling, this stops the heat transfer of the coolant. This can cause a runaway condition as the hot spot will over pressure the system and a boil over can occur. It is rare in any ST1100 or ST1300 to reach anywhere close to this unless there is a water pump or thermostat problem. There could be a hot spot at the area around where some have reported cracks due to poor circulation - I really don't know for sure.
A waterless coolant will not boil at 265 deg. F. and is good to about 375 Deg. F. so these higher temperature spots in the cooling system will not create a bubble there and the coolant though very hot will continue to transfer heat from this area. I have experienced having a water pump impeller failure on my dirt bike some years back while riding in the desert about 20 miles from camp. I was using Evans waterless coolant at the time and did not experience any boil over and was able to ride 20 mies back to camp even with a severely overheated engine. The engine had no damage what so ever from this and I continued to ride the bike for several more years after replacing the water pump. Any coolant with water in it would have failed miserably under these conditions and it would have resulted in a blown engine. What confuses so many is that a water based coolant on paper looks to transfer heat better than a pure propylene glycol like Evans. While Evans coolant does retain heat a bit more than water it will not fail anywhere close to where a water based coolant will. The cooling capacity of the ST Hondas is plenty sufficient to maintain proper cooling using waterless coolants as the thermostat is really what ultimately controls the temperature along with the airflow through the radiator. Some have reported that the cooling fan cycles more often using Evans coolant while stopped in traffic - I have not experienced this on my ST. It is interesting that with an engine running Evans you can actually open the radiator cap with a hot engine and no coolant will blow out as it would with coolant that has water in it - this is due to the very high boiling point of waterless coolant.
The other advantage of waterless coolants is that there is no corrosive effects from the coolant so water jackets, radiators etc. will not degrade over time. Essentially waterless coolant is permanent and does not require changing. The reason that coolant usually need to be changed is the oxides in the system buildup and the anti corrosive additives in coolant with water degrade and require changing. Without the water no corrosion and the coolant never needs changing.
Just my .02
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Hi
Have been working on cracked block, I attach 2 photo'S of an ST motor I have in a 3 wheel car which I built some 10 Yrs ago as there is no frame you can see the side of the block easily, the cracks are obvious but at this stage all below the water line. this area appears to be running extremely hot.
You will see I have fitted a 3/16 copper line from the drain plug which connects into the inlet of the water pump.
Along with waterless coolant it may help with the problem.
All interesting its keeping me amused
Cheers
Ron
Have been working on cracked block, I attach 2 photo'S of an ST motor I have in a 3 wheel car which I built some 10 Yrs ago as there is no frame you can see the side of the block easily, the cracks are obvious but at this stage all below the water line. this area appears to be running extremely hot.
You will see I have fitted a 3/16 copper line from the drain plug which connects into the inlet of the water pump.
Along with waterless coolant it may help with the problem.
All interesting its keeping me amused
Cheers
Ron
Attachments
My engines show these marks, as George pointed out. I have no engine problems.
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Which bears the question if it cracked before or after you'd drilled into it, or it only being a flash mark... ;-)
Hi
I finally found an ST1100 without a cracked block after looking at 25 bikes or so, on questioning the owner who has had the bike since new being 1992 and 220,000 klms stated he only ever fills the oil to the middle of the marks in the sight glass, as there are plenty of posts re vibration with the oil to upper mark it may have something to do with the blocks cracking.
Unfortunately the bike got written off last weekend when a 4 wheel drive back ended it only minor injuries to the rider and his wife.
Cheers
Ron
I finally found an ST1100 without a cracked block after looking at 25 bikes or so, on questioning the owner who has had the bike since new being 1992 and 220,000 klms stated he only ever fills the oil to the middle of the marks in the sight glass, as there are plenty of posts re vibration with the oil to upper mark it may have something to do with the blocks cracking.
Unfortunately the bike got written off last weekend when a 4 wheel drive back ended it only minor injuries to the rider and his wife.
Cheers
Ron
Well then, now is your opportunity to buy an engine cheap......
I see lines on your block pic but not cracks. Are any of these "cracked blocks" actually leaking?
(Tick-Tick-Tick. Usually reserved for timing belts.
)I see lines on your block pic but not cracks. Are any of these "cracked blocks" actually leaking?
I'm reach on all this, but lots of history. First, my black 91 cracked with nearly 170,000 miles. Crack runs from behind #3, around the corner to the drain plug. There is a drilled and plugged "lug" thru which the crack runs. That plug is part of the upper block machining, necessary to drill to merge the water passages, then plugged, like a mini freeze plug.
Now starts the conjecture: When casting these blocks, I assume sand cast. Unless the sand form is perfect, easily possible to end up with a thin spot at this corner. Whether casting flash, drill flash, or other reasons, it's entirely possible flow restriction in this area could result in higher temps. Mated with a thin spot, shouldn't be a surprise when some fail.
The "youngest" I've hear of belonged to Keith Rohsendal from Cali, at well under 100,000 miles. The oldest was another Cali guy with ~300,000. So mine was about median as far as miles. I've read of many others, including a guy in England who replaced his with one from a breaker which turned out to be also cracked. At least a dozen have been documented and probably more we've not heard of. Compare that to the total numbers and it's a small percentage.
When we changed out Digiamo's motor with a donor a few years ago, he was very worried about cracks and we checked both his old and new motor. The flash marks caused him concern to the point we actually Dremeled off the worst of them to stop potential stress factors. I personally didn't see the need but he's a worry wart.
Bottom line: If I still had an ST (three of'em in my history) I would just do normal coolant maintenance and ride it for the long term. Both STick and lipSTick were well over 200,000 miles with no problems. I'm STicking with caSTing flaw as the moST likely culprit.
Last note: I also doubt there were any significant changes to the casting process thru the life of the 1100. The same or similar process was probably used for many, many other motors over the years. More recent year, reusable molds and pressure casting has replaced older processes. I have no data about which may or may not be done that way, but progress happens.