Article [11] ST1100 - Fuel Pump Replacement

cmuthler said:
Total cost with the extra hose was about $80 - way cheaper than the $350+ Mother Honda wants. Also these pumps come with a 'lifetime warranty' - which is only good as long as the vendor stays in business. :biggrin:
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I recently looked at the price of the OEM part on Partzilla and it is back up to almost $500. I had my OEM replaced with a compatible unit for less than $100. I only have one complaint, the bike will start cold with no choke which is fine but starting it up warm requires running the starter for 6-8 seconds as it starts like it is flooded. Other than that the pump replacement was a success.
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check your fuel cut off valve. If it starts to leak fuel into the vacuum hose that will cause the symptoms your having......just bypass it IMO
 
Those two photos of an open bucket of gasoline near electrical wires and a running ST1100 make me shudder. (One little spark could cause a big, nasty fire, IMO.)
 
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Al st1100 said:
I recently looked at the price of the OEM part on Partzilla and it is back up to almost $500. I had my OEM replaced with a compatible unit for less than $100. I only have one complaint, the bike will start cold with no choke which is fine but starting it up warm requires running the starter for 6-8 seconds as it starts like it is flooded. Other than that the pump replacement was a success.
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check your fuel cut off valve. If it starts to leak fuel into the vacuum hose that will cause the symptoms your having......just bypass it IMO
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I bypassed the fuel cut off valve yesterday which has solved the problem I was having. Thank you for the tip!
 
cmuthler said:
check your fuel cut off valve. If it starts to leak fuel into the vacuum hose that will cause the symptoms your having......just bypass it IMO
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I bypassed the fuel cut off valve yesterday which has solved the problem I was having. Thank you for the tip!
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1100s are known for fuel pumps, may be because they are really old, and it's best to replace it. But the fuel cut valve may have been the problem all along. Glade you were able to solve the issue. Now just wait for some cooler weather and RIDE!
 
Uncle Phil said:
Well since I have four of these pretties and the chances of a fuel pump failing goes up as the mileage increases (already had 3 stockers fail), I decided I'd see what was available at a reasonable price with the ability to replace the stocker and leave everything as is. This is the link -

www.ebay.com

HONDA ST1100 GL1500 Goldwing Fuel Pump + Hose / Strainer 1988-2003 16700-MT3-010 | eBay

Gradient density fuel strainer for superior contaminant filtration. You will not find a stronger warranty from any other performance fuel pump manufacturer, period. Compatible with modern ethanol-infused pump gasoline.
www.ebay.com

Since I have a few tank 'stems' laying around I pulled one from my inventory and commenced to proceed. The price was good but there is one caveat. You will need to buy about a foot of some 5/16" fuel submersible hose (about $20 a foot) because once the pump is in place the stock hose is a wee bit too short (the hose they provided looked suspect to me).

www.ebay.com

Gates Submersible Fuel Line Hose 5/16 inch ID, Priced per ft, choose your length | eBay

Priced by the foot. We dispense off a roll. Priced by the foot. quantity ordered will be the number of feet in one continuous piece.
www.ebay.com

You do have to shorten and re-terminate the wires to the new pump as part of the replacement procedure. I also did not want to yank out a working pump and install the replacement so I came up with a good testing method that might be of value should you find yourself with pump troubles. Here's the pictures -

Part Number From Box Small.jpgQuantum Pump Small.jpgTesting Quantum Replacement 01 Small.jpgTesting Quantum Replacement 02 Small.jpg

This test setup allowed the bike to run as 'normal' without removing the original pump. I ran it for about 10 minutes at various RPMS (including up to 6,000 RPMS) and let it idle some so the engine would get up operating temperature. With this pump there was no stutter or stumbling and the bike idled just fine. I rev'ed her up quite a few times and everything appears to be proper and working. Hope this will help someone somewhere along the way. Total cost with the extra hose was about $80 - way cheaper than the $350+ Mother Honda wants. Also these pumps come with a 'lifetime warranty' - which is only good as long as the vendor stays in business. :biggrin:
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Bought the kit. re-tested the original pump outside the bike and no go...still waiting on submersible pipe. What were your thoughts about the +ve and -ve wires exposed and submersed in gasoline?
 
peeace said:
Bought the kit. re-tested the original pump outside the bike and no go...still waiting on submersible pipe. What were your thoughts about the +ve and -ve wires exposed and submersed in gasoline?
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there is no need to submerse the pump, if it does not spin with 12v applied to it, it is no good. Don't like the idea of playing with open gasoline and 12v battery. the pump is just an electric motor with a impeller on the bottom.
 
Al st1100 said:
there is no need to submerse the pump, if it does not spin with 12v applied to it, it is no good. Don't like the idea of playing with open gasoline and 12v battery. the pump is just an electric motor with a impeller on the bottom.
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I meant, the new replacement from quantum. it works when i connect to it. however, the way it is constructed there is a +ve and -ve connection that are naked. the original st pump has a black plastic connecter that locks on the original pump...
 

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peeace said:
I meant, the new replacement from quantum. it works when i connect to it. however, the way it is constructed there is a +ve and -ve connection that are naked. the original st pump has a black plastic connecter that locks on the original pump...
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the + has to be positive, If I remember follow the oe wires the - goes to the cover or the metal that holds everything, one is for the fuel low light and the other is b+
 
peeace said:
I meant, the new replacement from quantum. it works when i connect to it. however, the way it is constructed there is a +ve and -ve connection that are naked. the original st pump has a black plastic connecter that locks on the original pump...
Click to expand...
I cut the original wires and crimped on ring terminals to work with the Quantum pump.
 
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I believe the OEM fuel pump has an over pressure device that returns fuel back to the tank when the pressure exceeds something like 2 psi. It appears that part has been removed with the new aftermarket installation?
 
PhotoDoctor said:
I believe the OEM fuel pump has an over pressure device that returns fuel back to the tank when the pressure exceeds something like 2 psi. It appears that part has been removed with the new aftermarket installation?
Click to expand...

Usually, it is. There is a rework article that shows how to re-use the factory regulator if it is still serviceable. That involves removing the black plastic regulator from the old pump (the top end with the hoses exiting), installing a brass fitting (tap threads to fit the fitting) into the inlet hole nearest the old pump and simply plumbing it in.
I've searched for that version for the last few days and can't seem to find it.
Maybe someone who remembers can help out.
 
I have this same problem right now. It has taken 8 weeks for the new pump to arrive today and it looks the same as the replacement one pictured by Peeace. Unfortunatly the old pump is gone so I cant use any parts from it to modify and refit the pressure regulator. Is there an overpressure fix when the old pump is gone? One thought was to place a small hole in the pipe between the pump outlet and the fitting leaving the inside of the tank so that when the pump pressures up it blows excess pressure back inside the tank, any thoughts?
 
Well,

A few years ago I had my fuel pump fail and installed an external unit as many folks here have. I read through this thread multiple times, and picked up a lot of good info, and this looks like a good idea. I ordered one of the replacement pumps and set out to install it yesterday, figuring the external unit will fail someday, but it would be nice to have it as a backup..

But - came up with a few questions - and another problem...

First - maybe I a missing something, but like someone else stated... My brain is telling me that open electrical connections in a volatile liquid are a bad idea.... even worse if the fuel level gets low enough that the connections are in "vapor". Obviously, it's not since there are a couple of ground connections on the stem that are "open", but I keep thinking if one of the connections should spark.... uh-oh.... unwanted seat heater... But - other than in an aircraft years ago (that was tragic), I never hear of this happening. Back to the start - what am I missing?

Second - again - someone already mentioned - it appears the OEM pump had a by-pass - pressure regulator, something... and the replacement pump does not. Is there a problem with the new pump "over-running" the carbs? How much pressure can needle jet in the carbs take before they leak and flood everything?

And now the new problem -

One of the lugs - spades - whatever it is called on the top of the fuel pump assembly where the wires plug in outside the tank, has broken off....completely. And, as my luck typically holds, it is the "positive" side - the wire that goes directly to the pump. On the pump assembly, the spade is built in a plastic "plug" since it has to be sealed. The only metal remaining is buried deep in the plastic, and not at all accessible. All of the parts fiche's I have checked just show it as part of the pump assembly... nothing that can be replaced separately. So anyone have any idea how to wire around/through this - other than drilling a hole in it - feeding in a wire, then somehow sealing it back up... with...something?

As always, thanks in advance. This is always a great place info.

Odie1
 
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