Just installed the airtex on my 94'. Basically a direct replacement, Fired right up. The previous owner had quite a lot of rust in the tank, I think it failed due to contaminated fuel.
I've been running my Airtex conversion all summer now. About 2000 miles on the ST with no issues. When I did the conversion there was a lot of rust and crud in the tank. I did a full flush and EvapoRust treatment. It was easy to do with the pump and sender assemblies out of the tank. Repalced gaskets too. I also did a Kreem treatment that you can see in the pic I added in post 136. You can see the white coating. Looks real good now. You might consider doing the same over the winter R&R maintenance session. If there is still a lot of crud in there, it won't do the new pump any good.
What was your source for the Airtex pump, Al?
Just looking for a spare.
Just looking for a spare.
ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Master-Part...nda|Model:Prelude&hash=item2ca05ec6c5&vxp=mtr this is the brand I used ( Cross reference #) Airtek is listed as a 92 Honda prelude and there is multiple pumps to chose from $20-130 they are all the same . Some come with pump filter. It is a universal low pressure pump
Thanks! Saw them on Ebay also. Sometimes Ebay is NOT the best price. Will also check locally.
JuST pulled an '02 ST1100 out of storage. Carbs needed cleaned and I may have burned up the fuel pump trying to get it started and/or varnish gummed it up. This lead me to dozens of threads, this being the most complete.
My addition: NAPA has a part number 610-3021 which is the Facet Posi-Flow pump and even came branded that way. Rated at 1psi-2psi at 7gph (this is the lowest rating... some sites have it rated as much as 1.5psi-2.5psi at 25gph) I thought it would be a better fit that the 40178, 40177, etc, etc. Since it is a Posi-Flow it is rounder than the Cube and should fit easier as well. It is about $70 - $80 at the time of my purchase through NAPA. It can be had for a bit less online, but I wasn't willing to wait for the little savings once shipping was added to their lower price.
The Facet Posi-Flow page here: http://www.facet-purolator.com/cross-reference-guide.php shows it as the 60304, rated on the Facet site as 1psi-2psi 15gph with a 50" wet lift.
I am planning to abandon the OEM in-tank pump and replace the shut-off with this external pump. I will post pictures once I get a bracket fabricated, but thought I would let others know. 'Tis starting to be the riding season in the Pacific Northwest.
My addition: NAPA has a part number 610-3021 which is the Facet Posi-Flow pump and even came branded that way. Rated at 1psi-2psi at 7gph (this is the lowest rating... some sites have it rated as much as 1.5psi-2.5psi at 25gph) I thought it would be a better fit that the 40178, 40177, etc, etc. Since it is a Posi-Flow it is rounder than the Cube and should fit easier as well. It is about $70 - $80 at the time of my purchase through NAPA. It can be had for a bit less online, but I wasn't willing to wait for the little savings once shipping was added to their lower price.
The Facet Posi-Flow page here: http://www.facet-purolator.com/cross-reference-guide.php shows it as the 60304, rated on the Facet site as 1psi-2psi 15gph with a 50" wet lift.
I am planning to abandon the OEM in-tank pump and replace the shut-off with this external pump. I will post pictures once I get a bracket fabricated, but thought I would let others know. 'Tis starting to be the riding season in the Pacific Northwest.
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Re: ST1100 - Fuel Pump revisited
Building on Al's idea of using the factory regulator, I decided I was too anal retentive to shorten the hoses and I wanted everything to remain as factory as possible as far as the placement of the regulator. The outlet side of the pump sure looked about the size of a 1/8" pipe I had just tapped in the regulator. So I grabbed the die from my kit and tried... I was happy to discover it worked perfectly and I was able to install by threading the regulator directly to the pump, as the factory fits.
At the time I was not an approved member and could not see pictures yet, so I was reading Al's description (multiple times) and hoping for the best. I also was not able to disassemble the regulator and remove the check valve, which means I had to sacrifice my tap an remove the lead-in threads so it was a bottoming tap (I can buy a new tap when stores open). Thank you for the insight on how to do this, a fuel pump is stupid expensive!
Hope others find this helpful
Building on Al's idea of using the factory regulator, I decided I was too anal retentive to shorten the hoses and I wanted everything to remain as factory as possible as far as the placement of the regulator. The outlet side of the pump sure looked about the size of a 1/8" pipe I had just tapped in the regulator. So I grabbed the die from my kit and tried... I was happy to discover it worked perfectly and I was able to install by threading the regulator directly to the pump, as the factory fits.
At the time I was not an approved member and could not see pictures yet, so I was reading Al's description (multiple times) and hoping for the best. I also was not able to disassemble the regulator and remove the check valve, which means I had to sacrifice my tap an remove the lead-in threads so it was a bottoming tap (I can buy a new tap when stores open). Thank you for the insight on how to do this, a fuel pump is stupid expensive!
Hope others find this helpful
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Thanks for the additional pics and details! Doing this myself this weekend this thread has been very helpful. I haven't split the regulator and pulled the check valve anyways. Haven't found a definitive answer if it's necessary or not...?
hey quick question, how do you know if your fuel pump is bad or not? my pump puts out gas but my bike starts and runs and drives but if i close the choke the bike slowly starts yo die then shuts off. is that a bad fuel pump problem or a carb idle jet problem? they bike also stays running if i turn off the pump and give it little gas. noe i did shake the tank around before and banged the pump around on accident so maybe it banged the pump to hard?
To me something isn't quite right here. You say you have to turn a switch to get the fuel pump to run.....I don't have to do that to mine. So is that a jury rigged pump/set up you got? Has your bike sat still for a few years while full of gasoline? If it is the carbs and you have to repair them do you have the skill? On my bike repairs I know when to hold em and fold em. If its the carbs with the needles and floats and jets and passageways I think it would be folding em. Try to get yourself a good independent motorcycle mechanic who can do carb work because a Honda dealer would probably charge you big coin to do the job.
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I agree with this as to the the carb jets, Also, if you don't have the requisite skills seek out a local mechanic or possibly an ST-owners member in your area.
nice!!!
Yes I have removed the fuel cut off relay and have a toggle switch set up to my fuel pump. I think have the skill to remove the carb I recently taught myself how to remove, inspect and repair and carb on a YZF600r so I think I will go with the carb cleaning first because when I bought the bike he said it was sitting for awhile but he stared it up and drive it down the block before I bought it.
mine seems to be running fine with the check valve left in. I am not a constant use rider, but I can say I do tax the fuel delivery system when I do ride, and have no issues yet.
Smudgemo
Intermodal Man of Mystery
I hate to revive old threads, but this one seems to have a good bit of information, and I'm wondering if anyone has anything more long-term to relate for experience with the aftermarket fuel pump hack. My '96 pump did the die/come back to life thing in Utah last month, so I replaced it with a new unit from Honda, but I wanted to see what I could do to the old unit copying some of the ideas in this thread.
So I took apart the old pump, and broke out the 1/8" pipe tap and die to join the Quantum pump and the factory regulator and got this:
The motor seems to turn in the correct direction, so I'll probably install it on my '97 project and do some testing fairly soon. I should probably change out the hoses, but they seem to be in good enough shape for at least the testing phase.
Thoughts?
So I took apart the old pump, and broke out the 1/8" pipe tap and die to join the Quantum pump and the factory regulator and got this:
The motor seems to turn in the correct direction, so I'll probably install it on my '97 project and do some testing fairly soon. I should probably change out the hoses, but they seem to be in good enough shape for at least the testing phase.
Thoughts?
What a great post ! Many thanks !
Even if it is "old" it is still actual.
There is just one question who hasen't been answered ... What is the breather hose for ???
I put it the other way: With the original pump what would happen if I don't install the (thick) hose ??
I also have issues with my fuel pump, it work, it does't work ... and will probably get a mint conditions original pump for 100€, seeing a pump on the Internet can get to 60-70€ + shipping: I'll probably save money ...
Even if it is "old" it is still actual.
There is just one question who hasen't been answered ... What is the breather hose for ???
I put it the other way: With the original pump what would happen if I don't install the (thick) hose ??
I also have issues with my fuel pump, it work, it does't work ... and will probably get a mint conditions original pump for 100€, seeing a pump on the Internet can get to 60-70€ + shipping: I'll probably save money ...
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Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
The thing you have to be careful of on aftermarket fuel pumps is too much pressure though they say they are 'speced' for the ST1100. You will need a pressure regular either off the original or an inline one if you go aftermarket. I'm 'aftermarket' on one of my four with a regulator and it works fine.