ST1100 leak

pablo

I just found a pretty heavy leak in about the middle of the engine. It is antifreeze for sure. I have the left side plastic off and am going to look into to it further tomorrow. Is this about the location of the water pump. Almost dead center of the bike and on the backside of the engine.

Thanks any advice is apprectiated
Paul

the speelin errrs weer tearrable. so's I fixde 'em:D
 
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water pump is in front/left (perspective of the bike), next to the clutch. No oil at that point, only coolant behind it. It drives off the timing belt.

Rear is output of the shaft (rear/right), rear of the tranny (rear/center) and alternator (rear/left.)

Directly underneat is the oil pan (front 2/3rds of the bottom) I suppose it's possible to develop a leak at any of these spots but the alternator would be my first susect. Not uncommon to develop a small leak where the wires come out. 28 or 40 amper?? The 28 is oil cooled, thus more susceptable.
 
I have just discovered the same on my '91. A small coolant leak.
So, what's the fix?
 
Where is your leak?
If it also comes with a symptom of a full overflow tank you probably have a cracked over flow tube.
The 1st inch out of the radiator cracks and then it will allow fluid out but the crack will not let a vacuum pull the fluid back into the radiator.
 
The leak is on the left rear of the engine, just a bit if crud (coolant & dirt).
 
Listen to George and BigTom... they know the '91...
They have related oil cooled alternators have that issue sometimes...
 
Oops, sounds like a coolant leak. I assumed oil.

Go with Mark's suggestion, overflowing expansion tank due to cracked hose at the radiator fill point. Hot coolant flows to the tank but can't be sucked back to the radiator due to cracked hose.
 
When I switched to synthetic oil I found an oil leak, that I wouldn't want to ride with, at the left rear of the engine. I got a 10mm socket and tightened the bolt holding the bottom pan onto the crankcase. The bolt made such a loud snap when it finally moved that I thought I had broken it. Nope, I just fixed the oil leak. There was a little bit of built up crud there so it must have been seeping with conventional oil, just not enough to drip on the floor. This is just below the alternator. Try removing the plastic cover by your shifter so you can see in the area, then clean it with a strong soap/degreaser and hose it off. Run the engine and watch the spot. Is this area the source of the leak? Get your socket wrench.
 
Good suggestion, but I offer one more.

Loosen the bolt 1/2 turn and then tighten it up! It'll bust the accumulated gunk out of the threads before you try to tighten. If you just tighten, you might be able to test out your bolt shaft retrieval technique. :)

So. I am confused. Are we dealing with an oil leak, or a coolant leak? They are probably different in point of origin:)
 
I have a antifreeze leak. I think someone got confuzzed with a oil leak. But No problems.

When I start it up cold in the AM I choke it til it runs smooth. When it gets good and warm and you can start to feel the engine heat a little it will start dripping antifreeze. About a 4-6 inch puddle in a hurry. I did not think it was that bad but when I took the plastic off I noticed it was leaking more than I thouhgt. It is definetly coming from the rear of the motor.

If if matters I have a 1998 model so I should have the 40 amp alternator from what I have read on here, but I think that only applies to the oil leak situation anywho.

Thanks
Paul
 
ds3187 said:
I have a antifreeze leak. I think someone got confuzzed with a oil leak. But No problems.

When I start it up cold in the AM I choke it til it runs smooth. When it gets good and warm and you can start to feel the engine heat a little it will start dripping antifreeze. About a 4-6 inch puddle in a hurry. I did not think it was that bad but when I took the plastic off I noticed it was leaking more than I thouhgt. It is definetly coming from the rear of the motor.

If if matters I have a 1998 model so I should have the 40 amp alternator from what I have read on here, but I think that only applies to the oil leak situation anywho.

Thanks
Paul
Click to expand...

My bad for assuming an oil leak. Okay, it's coolant and it's at the rear of the engine. Someone already mentioned the cast elbows and the rubber hoses. Since it's just a drip, I'm gonna guess loose clamps at one or more of the under carb conncetions.

I suggest pulling the carbs from the boots (no need to remove the air cleaner). Loosen the top clamp on each carb and prise them up out of their boots. Hook a tie down, throw it over a rafter and lift about 3 inches. This'll give ya enuff room to remove the rubber sheet under there and give ya a look at all those hoses and connectors. I think this is easier than removing the gas tank and trying to fish around under the carbs from the rear.

Keep us posted.
 
Ok I just pulled more plastic off and dang there is a lot of sheet in there. The leak is definetly coming from the carb area and I have not bought a manual yet :eek:: so I am going to do a search on here.

I thought the leak was a simple drip but after removing the plastic I see where it was running into the plastic and out the front under the engine. I have been able to smell hot antifreeze for a while so I now think it was probably worse than expected. However I filled the overflow tank to the point it overflowed about 2 months and 800-1000 miles ago and it is still not empty, about 2-3 inches left in it so it is not leaking to awful.

This looks to be a bigger project than I was hoping for but hopefully wont be to bad.

Thanks for the help
Paul
 
George said:
My bad for assuming an oil leak. Okay, it's coolant and it's at the rear of the engine. Someone already mentioned the cast elbows and the rubber hoses. Since it's just a drip, I'm gonna guess loose clamps at one or more of the under carb conncetions.

I suggest pulling the carbs from the boots (no need to remove the air cleaner). Loosen the top clamp on each carb and prise them up out of their boots. Hook a tie down, throw it over a rafter and lift about 3 inches. This'll give ya enuff room to remove the rubber sheet under there and give ya a look at all those hoses and connectors. I think this is easier than removing the gas tank and trying to fish around under the carbs from the rear.

Keep us posted.
Click to expand...

Ok I reread all the posts and first and foremost my orginal sounded like a dumbazz wrote it. I was rushing out to take the kids Trick or Treating and did not proof read, so I apologize for that.


I think I will try what George says here. As it does 2 things, one it saves me from pulling the tank and 2 by leaving the tank I can run the engine and see exactly where it is coming form. Sure looks like it will be tight area to work in tho'

BTW I wonder about removing the tank. On my VTX I can pull the tank and not loose fuel and save the mess, on the wifes Maurader it makes a mess and spills everywhere. SO how does the ST1100 work. It looks like it is vaccum operated as well and therefore will not loose very much nor make a mess.

THanks
Paul
 
Thanks for the post John, that pic will give me something to work with.


I agree on the manual but my bike funds come from side job sources and not household funds and since I have not had side work I have no bike funds. Oh the harsh life I am forced to live:D I just been ridin them

I honestly did not expect to tear into her this weekend but once you get started you know it is hard to find a good stopping point and I am learning, I have found the air and oil filters, realized it has a Wal-Mart battery and have learned alot about the bike so not a total loss. I will probably replace that Wally WOrld battery before it leaves me stranded somehwere tho'
 
Ok with the help above and the pics I made it through. I did pull the tank so I could see under there as I wanted to run it long enough to warm up as that is when the leak starts. So I did run it and just as it died from being out of fuel I shut it off and 15 seconds later here came the leak.

If you can see it look at the hose tht hooks to the right side of the engine and there is my "gusher" so to speak. Now I have to pull the carbs as that clamp is rusted and I bet I can pull it off by hand. I have a whole box of clamps so I am going to put new ones on both sides and where ever else one is needed. You can just see the antifreeze coming out around the end of the hose.

Thanks again for all the help.

leakingST1100hoseclamp004.jpg
 
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I do not think it has been recently serviced as the clamp is rusted. I do not have a manual yet and will wait til I do to go any further, besides it is 75 degrees this weekend after low 30's all week.

I am ready to get this biotch on the road:D

I apologize for that last statement, but I am positive each of you understood it:cool:
 
Any quick ideas on carb removal. I need to get them out of the way to replace those clamps but they won't budge and I hate to pry and break them. All I can see is they sit in place and the rubber adapters hod them in place. Am I overlooking something...
 
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