ST1100 leak

Dang, you've made alot of progress in a day ! You're doing great DS.

If you're not "overhauling" the cooling system and replacing everything that might fail again on you later (at 10 years some would consider it time for such an overhaul), I'm not sure why you'll go through the trouble to replace the clamps. That type of clamp needs to be periodically tightened as the hose ages and changes as it heats and cools. I'd clean it up and tighten it rather than wrestle the hoses off the elbows and potential weaken the hose or elbow. Get you riding quicker too...

The hard part of taking off the carbs is getting them out of the boots which it looks like you've already done. Theres a few air hoses to deal with, the drain hoses underneath, and the throttle and choke cables.

Choke is pretty easy to figure out. Two methods on the throttle. Either take the cable ends out by loosening the adjusters, or unscrew the two screws that hold the whole pully thing on. I did it the first way, others say the second method is easiest as you don't have to mess with the adjustment when reinstalling.

When reinstalling make sure all your vacuum hoses have reconnected properly or you'll have engine running wrong issues...

Good Luck.
 
Um... er...

Paul, am I missing something or is the big rubber mat between the underside of your carbs and the engine missing...?

You've gotten a lot of good advice. I'd just tighten that clamp without loosening the carbs and see if that fixes the leak... and GO RIDE!

John
 
Don't worry about the Wally World battery. It prolly won't last as long as a Yuasa, but it'll get the job done. I just put a new one into STick this morning. $80, available anywhere. How can ya go wrong? I took out a 5-year-old Yuasa that gave up the ghost unexpectedly.
 
If you are going to all that trouble on a ten year old machine why not fix everything while you are in there. I replaced all the hoses, resealed the elbows, replaced the boots for the carbs including new clamps and allen head bolts, the thermostat, and radiator cap. You can inspect and repair/replace the overflow hose at the same time. Took me a weekend but have peace of mind that I won't get stranded by a ruptured coolant hose.
 
Ok I did not follow up last night so here goes, we took the kids out to a arcade/pizza place and were late getting home.

The clamp is extremely rusted and looks like it is about to break. The 2 coolant hoses that run under the carbs are way to soft in my opinion and show signs of seepage at both ends. Since I have the carbs off I am considering doing the pair removal while I am in there. I think I will replace the hoses and clamps while I have the carbs off as well as the T-stat just to be in good shape. So when new antifreeze is installed I will have a freshly serviced cooling system.

Somone has been in there before as I see some signs. For one the rubber sheet ya'll refer to is missing. For another the drain hoses that go to the bottom of each carb are about half off/dislodged so to speak. When I bought this bike in July the dealer said it had been serviced. When I checked the coolant level it was low so they topped it off. It had been in their inventory a while sitting so I am sure at some point they seen the leak and the mechanic tried to tighten it and knocked off some of the drains in the process.

As far as the rubber sheet I have no idea when it was removed. Is this something I should replace and if so what with.

I know they road it for several hundred miles as one of the mechaincs liked this bike and rode it home often and on long weekends and such. He told me alot about this bike and I believed him enough to think he was telling the truth. I was concerned when I got off the interstate it would run warmer in stop and go trraffic until the temp stablized I guess for lack of a better term.

Anyway long story short, since I am in there and I do not want to have to worry about long trips in the future, I am going to replace all that I see needs it.

2 hoses under the carbs w/new clamps
t-stat just for peace of mind so I know the maintenance
remove pair valve while I am in there

Am I missing something...

Where do you guys normally get your parts. I know there is a site sponsor just not sure of what they carry. I will try to use them if applicable. Does DLP/HDL have a site listed for the ST1100.


Thanks for all the help. I have had some very informative PM's and some nice helpful links added. I Thank each of you for the help.
Paul
 
Stick blew a hose at 11 years and 121,000 miles. Also, the thermostat was worn out and the o-rings under the elbows were shot. No leaks, tho.

As mentioned above, might be time to redo the system. There's a parts list here somewhere. It's a tedious job but prolly worth the effort. In the meantime, tighten that clamp and...

GO RIDE!!

As to the carbs, a little levering under the carb set on one side will get'em moving, easy enuff to get the other side out after that. To reinstall (last time I did it) I used a 2 foot piece of 1.5" black ABS sewer pipe to push down against each of the carb tops. Prior to pushing, I put Plumbers Grease (basically silicone, available at yur local hardware store) around each carb bottom to ease the insertion. Think of it as KY Jelly for the carbs. :D

Oh, yeah, if ya decide to do the hoses, replace the carb boots at the same time.

<edit> Found it! Thanks to a previous post by John Oo, almost exactly a year ago. Mike Martins' web site contains a plethora of important ST info.

Paul, Service Honda is as good a place as any for ordering parts on line. I"m sure the prices from Mike's list have changed in the last 5 years, tho.
 
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Thanks George, all that info is great.

To bad that Ar in your location stands for Arizona, if it stood for Arkansas as mine does we could get together:D Not that I have a project I could use help on or anything

Just teasing, when I have to give my address it seems people assume Arizona instead of Arkansas
 
Paul, thank the site, all the info is embedded here if ya can find it. I knew John Oo would have something.

Mike Martin's site is awesome. The same info is available in multiple places but he has about the best comprehensive collection.

AR is Arkansas, AZ is Arizona. Folks get confused sometimes. :D

I'd be glad to help if you can wait til April.
 
I got tickled Friday. I was on the phone for work with a technical center somewhere in Hindu I think and the lady with her non american accent said I was hard to understand. Which is complete BS I talk like all other sourthern rednecks, but anywho she kept calling it R-Kansas and as I tried to correct here it was hilarious. I just let it ride. I got tickled cause she said I was hard to understand. That is a change in perspective on calls like these for sure.

On that site you showed me for parts the prices seem to be a little lower than Mark had listed, not complainin just sayin---so that is a good thing
 
Good luck, Paul. Keep us poSTed, please.

Oh yeah, I'll just add: yes, order and install the rubber mat (19050-MT3-000 / RUBBER). It's necessary to keep the gas in the float bowls from boiling, IINM.... the Honda engineers put it there for some reason.

Regards, John
 
ds3187 said:
I got tickled Friday. I was on the phone for work with a technical center somewhere in Hindu I think and the lady with her non american accent said I was hard to understand. Which is complete BS I talk like all other sourthern rednecks, but anywho she kept calling it R-Kansas and as I tried to correct here it was hilarious. I just let it ride. I got tickled cause she said I was hard to understand. That is a change in perspective on calls like these for sure.

On that site you showed me for parts the prices seem to be a little lower than Mark had listed, not complainin just sayin---so that is a good thing
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Paul, I think the prices on Mike's page are from 2003.
 
George said:
Paul, I think the prices on Mike's page are from 2003.
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I knew you meant they would most likely be higher. I was surprised that it was not as bad as I expected given the time difference

On HDL I came up with about $170 but they did not have the bulk tubing, but I did add in the part that Mark had listed but not figured in the price as it was a after thought by someone. SO all in all very close still yet. I want to check with my local dealer on Tuesday before I decide on anything. I like to shop local if I can. I will see what happens.
 
ds3187 said:
I knew you meant they would most likely be higher. I was surprised that it was not as bad as I expected given the time difference

On HDL I came up with about $170 but they did not have the bulk tubing, but I did add in the part that Mark had listed but not figured in the price as it was a after thought by someone. SO all in all very close still yet. I want to check with my local dealer on Tuesday before I decide on anything. I like to shop local if I can. I will see what happens.
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Expect yur local dealer to up to double the price, plus sales tax, minus shipping.
 
George said:
Expect yur local dealer to up to double the price, plus sales tax, minus shipping.
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I would not doubt it, but I do try them. On tires they are actually priced as well as anyone atleast on the VTX tires, as far as other parts I have not priced any yet. We shall see...
 
Paul,

Many people (count me as one) have used 5/16" 50psi Fuel Line hose for the Overflow Tank Hose and the Bypass Hose. Available at any auto parts store for cheap $.

Now comes the real PITA, waiting for your ordered parts to come in. I had to ask my local STealer if he wanted my business, or did he want me to shop online. He wouldn't match the online prices but discounted enough that I bought from him.

While you're at the Auto Parts store, you'll need to make some plugs for the Vacuum hoses that you'll be removing from the PAIR system. Also a plug for the big pipe on the front of the airbox (1/2"?). Some people cut the chrome metal pipes and seal them closed to block the exhaust ports (done right bike still looks stock) others buy block off plates for a Suzuki GSXR 750 from Intuitive Racing Products for @ $30. These match up to the exhaust ports perfectly. When you're done there's no more Rat-ta-tat-tat-pop-pop when deaccelerating, and some feel that the engine rev's high more freely. ymmv.
 
Great info Chris. my work schedule is non stop for the next 12-14 days so I have plenty of time to wait on parts and research doing the par removal as well.

Thanks to everyone for the help I have received.
 
Well I took the easy way out for now, work is just busy this time of year and I do not want to miss riding. Plus I took the VTX out about 11PM the other night for a peaceful ride thru town and picked up a nail so ruined that fat tire, since I had mods planned for it this winter this is the time to start in on it. I was 6-7 miles from home and riding 2-up and with the 250 tire it rode straight just fine, but when I had to turn it really fought to stay up right. I was very surprised that it was as stable as it was though as she was completely flat. So back to the ST, I put new clamps on and put it back together. Well I have the carbs on and the tank in place but not bolted yet, air box is all back and secured. I wanted to run it and make sure no leaks so I let it run for 20 minutes and then shut her down. This is where I would normally get a leak and all is good so far.

I wanted to replace all the cooling system stuff like hoses and such but I bought this bike for winter riding as the VTX is a lot colder, so I will ride it and next summer tear it down for the maintenace and replace it all when it gets to hot to ride this mobile heater:D

The carbs went in easier than I expected, I put a very little wheel bearing grease-that was all I had- on the rubber boots and one side I could just push in, the other side I tood a piece of wood and a hammer and coaxed it in. Took all of 5 minutes and from there the rest was easy. I sure was expecting a harder job to get them in.

I need to figure out which screws and bolts go where as my memory is the second shortest thing I got:D so does anyone have a quick list. I had the plastic off and the tank out so that is what I need to know about. I can probably figure it out but a little insight might make it quicker.

I have to work a few hours today but tonight I hope to do a few things I have had planned.

1-I have a switch that goes on the brake or clutch resovior I want to put on to use for driving lights and a deer alert and it has 3 switches so I will have a extra for whatever the next addon I put on later

2- I went to Advance Auto and got a fuse block and to Radio Shack and got a ground block and jumper strips so I plan on installing that to run the above switches on so as not to load up the battery terminals

3- I bought a Givi box and a mount from seperate members on here and installed it last night, some of the hardware was missing so I want to take it back apart and get the right stuff for it and replace the aluminum bolts as they tend to strip out easily

If anyone has any suggestions to make any of the above easier or work better feel free to make suggestions, BTW where do ya'll usually mount the fuse and ground blocks on these scoots, I have a ST1100. I plan on adding a Stebel real soon as well so getting all the blocks out of the way now will make that a snap in the near future. I have previously done all this to a few other bikes and I really like the benefiets and protection.

:bow1:Thanks for all your help guys, although I could have figured it out you all gave me alot of info that made it easier and likely prevented something from getting damaged by mistake :bow1:
 
Macman42 said:
Is it a hard job to replace o ring on the st 28amp
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There are two o-rings in there. One for the stator and one on the base, so you are basically doing all the work you would do if you were upgrading to the 40 amp unit. Swing arm comes off. Might as well do the upgrade, if you are going in there.
 
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