ST1100 Motor Replacement Tricks?!?

Wings-AGMC

Wings-AGMC

Joined
Jul 28, 2021
Messages
15
Age
43
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Bike
92 - ST1100
Ive got one of these bikes that Ive had to pull the motor in since it was completely toast (Rusted through after sitting in a field for god only knows how many years until I Got it) And Im having one hell of a time getting the donor motor BACK into the frame. Do any of you folks have any tricks or tips to get the block back into the frame?? Im sure Ive let out more curse words and busted knuckles than Im willing to admit to trying to get this thing back on the road!
 
Just took them ha! The motor is out of a 2000 1100 European police model going into my nekked 2000
 

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Cant add much to your engine install, but I have to say that if the bike sat in a field so long that the engine was toast because of it, be wary of the condition of the swingarm for rust. One would think that the underside should be rotten by now as well. I could be wrong, but have a look to be safe. I would also add, have a look in the fuel tank for rust as well. Good luck and keep us updated on your progress.
 
Last time I did such I placed some wooden blocks under the oil pan, and lifted the (stripped) frame off... way less weight to handle... ;)
 
ST1100Y said:
Last time I did such I placed some wooden blocks under the oil pan, and lifted the (stripped) frame off... way less weight to handle... ;)
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That’s what my wife and I were discussing doing. Seems more logical and once the block is in then just using a jack to lift it back on its center stand
 
Bmacleod said:
Cant add much to your engine install, but I have to say that if the bike sat in a field so long that the engine was toast because of it, be wary of the condition of the swingarm for rust. One would think that the underside should be rotten by now as well. I could be wrong, but have a look to be safe. I would also add, have a look in the fuel tank for rust as well. Good luck and keep us updated on your progress.
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So - oddly enough the dingleberry I bought the bike from left the false tank off the top of the bike with the carbs removed and plugs pulled out. The swingarm though is perfect; I pulled it and had it sand blasted just to confirm and thankfully it’s still solid as a rock even being in the Florida sun and so forth
 
If you block up the engine, I'd suggest raising the engine to the same height as if it were sitting in the frame. That would make installing other components easier once you get the frame attached to your new engine.
 
Block up the engine as mentioned, it's way easier if the frame is bare, the frame needs to be tilted at an angle to be able to fit it around the engine. It's been a while since I did this but it took two people to manhandle the frame and fit it onto the engine. You may be able to do it by yourself with an overhead hoist and some ratchet straps or come-a-longs to get the angles you'll need

Good luck
 
ST11Nut said:
Block up the engine as mentioned, it's way easier if the frame is bare, the frame needs to be tilted at an angle to be able to fit it around the engine. It's been a while since I did this but it took two people to manhandle the frame and fit it onto the engine. You may be able to do it by yourself with an overhead hoist and some ratchet straps or come-a-longs to get the angles you'll need

Good luck
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My wife is a pretty tough cookie - be the method I try when I get back home after the weekend
 
Guys are saying as I suspected, like a VFR job, it's best to block the engine solo at install height, and install the frame to the engine.
Looks like you need to pull a few things off the frame to have a better shot at it.
 
to quote the Honda manual "installation is in the reverse order of removal"

For removal, it mentions removing the sub-frame member on the left side and remove the engine out of the frame to the left. Have you tried removing the sub-frame? Here's the manual section if you don't already have it. there's one picture for '91-'95 and another for later models.
 

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dwalby said:
to quote the Honda manual "installation is in the reverse order of removal"

For removal, it mentions removing the sub-frame member on the left side and remove the engine out of the frame to the left. Have you tried removing the sub-frame? Here's the manual section if you don't already have it. there's one picture for '91-'95 and another for later models.
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Aye - subframe is already out of it, I’ll do the set the frame in the motor trick and see if it works
 
SO! We got the motor in this evening…exactly as it was said above. Still took a bit of work with a pry bar but my wife and I got it all bolted up and then I had the “please hit head on wall here several times” moment. The donor motor only has the 28amp alternator in it and ive
Got a good 40amp one that was supposed to go into it…

NOW - do any of you have any tips on how to remove the 28amp from the back of the motor while it’s in the frame before I go drop it out of the frame again?!
 
Wings-AGMC said:
...and then I had the “please hit head on wall here several times” moment. The donor motor only has the 28amp alternator in it and ive got a good 40amp one that was supposed to go into it…

NOW - do any of you have any tips on how to remove the 28amp from the back of the motor while it’s in the frame before I go drop it out of the frame again?!
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Uh-huh.
I can see you've been channeling my typical workflow.
Get going, get some momentum, feelin' GOOD!, all proud and bowed up, ...and then WHAMMO!!
Ya done a good job, @Sadlsor, but ya done it wrong. Ya went an' forgot the *$(@#&*@^ (insert missing part here.) Now you get to go back and undo a couple hours' work.
Familiar with the facepalm move.
All too familiar.
 
I’m honestly thinking about leaving the 28amp in the bike. There’s not a lot it has to power other than a small LCD gauge setup, the headlight and brake lights so I think it MIGHT actually work.
Just have to figure I it how to re-align the alternator to get it back in the case and bolted down with the gear/shaft on it rather than it being off the head of the alternator ha!
 
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