ST1100AY Clutch screaching on pull away

thunderpipes

thunderpipes

Joined
Mar 27, 2016
Messages
20
Location
UK kent
Bike
Honda ST1100Y
Hi ST-Owners,my trusted Pan is just out of warranty. Showing 162,000 miles on the clock. The Honda service book is completely full of stamps and I have been doing my own repairs on a breakdown basis for many years!! However, when I first pull away from my garage the clutch makes a awful noise. After the bike warms up,the clutch is fine again. Should I be concerned about this? I am trying my hardest to keep this old girl running. My biggest concern is the alternator failing as it would be uneconomic to replace. My goal is to get to 200,000 miles,with your help I hope this may be achievable. I should mention that the swinging arm is corroded and the ABS system stopped working many years before I got my hands on it and I am still alive!!!. Each MOT pass from here on is an act of god!!! I really enjoy riding this bike and I like the challenge of doing my own repairs with my small tool box. If it won't move,I spray it with WD40,if it still won't move ,hit it with a big hammer!! Yes, you are right,they are the only things in my small tool box!!!I do realise that nothing lasts for ever except the ST1100 !!! or should I be looking for a newer machine? What would you do? Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
 
If it honks like a goose when you first start out in the cold I think that is somewhat normal. Mine has done it from time to time.
After warm up no problem.
 
This is a common problem with advanced mileage. Mine was doing the same thing and it progressively got worse over several thousand miles until it was happening all the time and clutch slippage became obvious. A new set of clutch friction disks (I reused the metal disks) and pressure plate springs completely cured it for me.
 
wjbertrand said:
This is a common problem with advanced mileage. Mine was doing the same thing and it progressively got worse over several thousand miles until it was happening all the time and clutch slippage became obvious. A new set of clutch friction disks (I reused the metal disks) and pressure plate springs completely cured it for me.
Click to expand...
"Honks like a goose" yes,you are spot on. Good advise thank you. Shall I spray it or hit it? Only joking!!! New pressure plates & springs it is. Cheers again.
 
it's called clutch chatter. Sometimes caused by glazed clutch plates and can be also be related to using oils formulated for automobiles will anti-friction additives. Sometimes changing oil types will solve this.
 
Yup, I agree that you need new clutch plates. While you are in there, here are a couple of suggestions:

- many people find that the clutch slave cylinder gets pretty grotty on elderly STs - the replacement is cheap and easy (especially on the ST1100) so I’d do that too when you replace the clutch plates and head-off another serious problem down the road;

- be sure to soak the new friction discs in clean motor oil overnight before installing them - otherwise the clutch may not function properly after reassembly.

Please let us know how this works out.

Pete
 
Here are some articles that might be of interest to you, they are detailed illustrated write-ups about how to do these tasks:

ST1100 - Clutch R&R - Detailed Pics

ST1100 - Replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder

MaxPete's suggestion to soak the new plates in oil overnight is a good one - just make sure it is the correct "non-energy conserving" oil that you would use in the ST 1100 engine. Energy-conserving oils, which are the most common types sold for automobiles nowadays, are poison for clutches on motorcycles. For more info, see this discussion: Oil Specifications

Although it may not be necessary at this time to replace the clutch slave cylinder, it would be prudent to do so - they don't last forever, and if you still have the original one in there, it is long past its best-before date.

You may also want to consider overhauling the clutch master cylinder & handle assembly - there is a little round bushing in the clutch lever that wears out over time. See this post: Clutch Handle Assembly rebuild with pics

The parts needed for the clutch slave cylinder rebuild and clutch handle / master cylinder rebuild are not expensive.

Lastly, it can be very difficult to re-establish prime in the clutch hydraulic system if it has been drained, which will be the case if you replace the slave cylinder. There is a "trick" to doing this, see this discussion (posts #23 & 24 in that discussion) for the explanation: Operation of the Master Cylinder.

Michael
 
If you haven't yet done so you might want to look at the main 3P connector from your alternator and inspect for heat damage. There is also a 4P starter relay connector that should be inspected. Both of these can trap water over years and miles and corrosion builds up causing increased resistance in them and often result in heat damage.

If it hasn't been done these connectors are often cut out and replaced with soldered connections (the latter referred to as the red wire bypass) which eliminates the problem of corrosion related failure and possible inconvenient power failure not to mention possible stator failure. This is one of many threads on the subject.

If there is no heat damage you'd at least want to ensure the connections are clean and corrosion free by using something like DeoxIT contact cleaner. Corrosion is the bike killer.
 
Mine has done this but only once or twice and is now at 63000 miles, a baby I know.
Obviously you've done the right things to the bike over the years to get it to where it is now.
I think like others the time has come to get the clutch out and overhaul the hydraulics whilst you're at it. At least on the 11 access is good. BUT, you haven't recently changed to different oil have you?
Upt'North.
 
Sorry for the slow reply. I still use the same oil" Shell Hellix 10w/40 semi synthetic"I do this every 9,000 miles & filter change every time. For me it works out once a year,usually I service just before it's annual MOT. It was a good thought of yours all the same. Cheers
 
CYYJ said:
Here are some articles that might be of interest to you, they are detailed illustrated write-ups about how to do these tasks:

ST1100 - Clutch R&R - Detailed Pics

ST1100 - Replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder

MaxPete's suggestion to soak the new plates in oil overnight is a good one - just make sure it is the correct "non-energy conserving" oil that you would use in the ST 1100 engine. Energy-conserving oils, which are the most common types sold for automobiles nowadays, are poison for clutches on motorcycles. For more info, see this discussion: Oil Specifications

Although it may not be necessary at this time to replace the clutch slave cylinder, it would be prudent to do so - they don't last forever, and if you still have the original one in there, it is long past its best-before date.

You may also want to consider overhauling the clutch master cylinder & handle assembly - there is a little round bushing in the clutch lever that wears out over time. See this post: Clutch Handle Assembly rebuild with pics

The parts needed for the clutch slave cylinder rebuild and clutch handle / master cylinder rebuild are not expensive.

Lastly, it can be very difficult to re-establish prime in the clutch hydraulic system if it has been drained, which will be the case if you replace the slave cylinder. There is a "trick" to doing this, see this discussion (posts #23 & 24 in that discussion) for the explanation: Operation of the Master Cylinder.

Michael
Click to expand...
Wow,this info is great. Thank you for taking the time to write this. I shall let you know how I get on when I get the parts.Cheers again Thunderpipes
 
ST Gui said:
If you haven't yet done so you might want to look at the main 3P connector from your alternator and inspect for heat damage. There is also a 4P starter relay connector that should be inspected. Both of these can trap water over years and miles and corrosion builds up causing increased resistance in them and often result in heat damage.

If it hasn't been done these connectors are often cut out and replaced with soldered connections (the latter referred to as the red wire bypass) which eliminates the problem of corrosion related failure and possible inconvenient power failure not to mention possible stator failure. This is one of many threads on the subject.

If there is no heat damage you'd at least want to ensure the connections are clean and corrosion free by using something like DeoxIT contact cleaner. Corrosion is the bike killer.
Click to expand...
Very interesting to read this as last year I had to replace the 4P connector at the starter relay and I by-passed the red wire directly to the positive terminal for the battery with heavy gauge cable.The old connector had melted and left me dead at the side of the road!!! It's much better now and stays cool. I hadn't realized the 3P connector had similar issues so thanks for that one.
 
thunderpipes said:
Very interesting to read this as last year I had to replace the 4P connector at the starter relay and I by-passed the red wire directly to the positive terminal for the battery with heavy gauge cable.The old connector had melted and left me dead at the side of the road!!! It's much better now and stays cool. I hadn't realized the 3P connector had similar issues so thanks for that one.
Click to expand...
I'm more concerned with a alternator cracking as a result of years of mud, salt and dirt running correctly down the mudguard and into the alternator. What bad design. I had made a rubber flap to divert it away from it. Before each winter I spray a little WD40 into the alternator,right thing to do it not? But so far so good!
 
Always avoid after market parts if they have to do anything important. I found that out with a Yamaha RXS 100 .The clutch springs were weak and the clutch plates were poor. As soon as they were changed for original parts the bike ran well again .
 
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