ST1100P Same alternator?

Joined
Sep 2, 2020
Messages
6
Age
50
Location
Ireland
Hello,

I believe this is my first post here. I live in Ireland. I started riding motorbikes when i lived in Reading(er-5, k1100) and i was a courier there and later in Dublin. Thanks to everybody in advance. So to my query. I have a '98 ST1100 which when i checked its previous reg it is actually a '96 ST1100P registered in 1998 according to Honda. I have to replace the alternator. Is it the same 40 A alternator used on all those models in that time range? I am currently conisidering this alternator :


which i believe should fit?
 
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Welcome to the group. I can’t help with your question, but someone will be along shortly that will have answers for you.

Ride Safe
John
 
I'm pretty certain (makes a change) that the same alternator was fitted to all models up to 96 and then 96 on, so 28A then 40A.
If you want to shop around there's a geezer on Gumtree that reconditions both ST11 and 13 alternators. I don't know how much he charges but it'll be on the site and he could be a good source of information on all things alternator related. I haven't used him so can't recommend him but he's been posting on there for years.
Good luck and welcome to the forum.
Upt'North.
 
Hi there, I ain`t got an answer to you question but a question. Can I fit a newer model 40 amp alternator in my 1990 ST which has got her 28 amp faulty? Thank you.
 
Hi there, I ain`t got an answer to you question but a question. Can I fit a newer model 40 amp alternator in my 1990 ST which has got her 28 amp faulty? Thank you.
Yes it can be done but, the Baseplate that is required is no longer available.
 
All ST11 P models had the uprated alternator ( generator) and eventually it was fitted to all models from 96. So a 96 or later alternator is same as standard fit part on you P model.
 
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I got an alternator. The bike was idle for about two to three weeks in mild weather. Wouldn't start so i charged the battery. Wouldn't start or even crank. One of the lights on the dasgboard flashed a bit. So charged the battery again, put a multimeter across the battery. It was 13.6 before i connected; dropped to 13.2 once i put it back in the bike. When i tried to start the bike, it went to 12.85 and down to about 12.2 on subsequent attempts and floated back up to 12.4 when i turned off the ignition. Bad battery? My initial plan was to charge the battery so i could drive the bike to my mechanic. But unsure about getting a new battery, maybe there is oemthing else wrong or the current alternator is interfering?
 
It was 13.6 before i connected; dropped to 13.2 once i put it back in the bike. When i tried to start the bike, it went to 12.85 and down to about 12.2 on subsequent attempts and floated back up to 12.4 when i turned off the ignition. Bad battery?
Troubleshooting is a process of elimination. Test the battery by jump-starting from any 12v vehicle or a portable jump-starter.

If the new battery makes a difference, it's the old battery; if not, then not.
 
'Wouldn't crank...' You mean wouldn't turn over? Because the alternator is seized in the housing? If you click through to top gear, can you spin the back wheel to turn the engine over?
 
'Wouldn't crank...' You mean wouldn't turn over? Because the alternator is seized in the housing? If you click through to top gear, can you spin the back wheel to turn the engine over?


Good point. That's a possibility if the alternator base assembly split gears failed to mesh with the drive gear inside the engine, but I don't think you could fully seat the base assembly to the crankcase without them meshing.
 
I got an alternator. The bike was idle for about two to three weeks in mild weather. Wouldn't start so i charged the battery. Wouldn't start or even crank. One of the lights on the dasgboard flashed a bit. So charged the battery again, put a multimeter across the battery. It was 13.6 before i connected; dropped to 13.2 once i put it back in the bike. When i tried to start the bike, it went to 12.85 and down to about 12.2 on subsequent attempts and floated back up to 12.4 when i turned off the ignition. Bad battery? My initial plan was to charge the battery so i could drive the bike to my mechanic. But unsure about getting a new battery, maybe there is oemthing else wrong or the current alternator is interfering?
Check the voltage as you push the starter button, it might drop as low as 10V. normally. If it drops to almost nothing it's the battery
 
"Check the voltage as you push the starter button, it might drop as low as 10V. normally. If it drops to almost nothing it's the battery."

+1

"... Wouldn't start or even crank. ..."

If it won't crank ("turn over"), put it on the center stand, in neutral, with the side stand up. Double check the kill switch. Will it turn over?

If it doesn't do anything, a long reach possibility is the starter relay. It's located just to the left of the battery. Check the fuse (don't be fooled by the spare one) and look for an overheated/melted connector especially where the red wire goes into the connector. More signs of the relay/red wire is no electrical activity except maybe the clock.
 
I put a Oem alternator(one of the dearer brands, i won't mention its name) into it not long after my last post and went just at xmas. Can anyone receommend where i can source a honda one or good OEM model. I would also consider a honda second hand?
 
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