ST1300 clutch push-rod/ lifter rod seal replacement

nt650hawk said:
it pulls out and bottoms on the frame.

thanks for the reminder:
as an extra measure while I had the rod extended, was to polish the shaft to remove any crud that may have embedded itself that could wear the new seal. I used the back side of 1" sandpaper roll with simichrome till i could see myself :)





I believe the failing rubber on the shaft seal was due to the DOT fluid being constantly involved on its surface.
Click to expand...

ok, that makes sense then
 
This old thread helps me with my new problem. Thanks, Gino, for showing the way!

I pulled my clutch slave cylinder (CSC) last week because of new leakage and dropping fluid level in the master cylinder.

While cleaning out the CSC cavity on the back of the engine, pieces of rubber began shedding from the clutch oil seal which is recessed inside the cavity. Oh boy - what to do? Take a chance that it's just surface rubber but not from the business part of the seal. Down side - put everything back together and end up with hydraulic fluid in the motor oil and vice versa. Not a smart choice of potentially having to go through the agony of removing the CSC again. And messing up the hydraulics and engine oil (and engine?)

I opted to remove/replace the seal. It was intimidating to consider just how to get the seal out of that tight space. Gino's tips led the way to my success.

Steps to success:

1) I initially tried to use my little hook-tipped tools from Harbor Freight. I stuck the tip in along the clutch rod, then rotated outward to the perimeter of the seal,, but just couldn't get enough "umph" to budge the seal.

2) Next is used a longer rigid wire with a hooked end, but same result.

3) Approaching the point of despair, I re-read Gino's post and saw how he punched some holes through the metal body of the seal, then inserted a screw. With nothing to lose, I followed his lead. I used a thin awl and a light hammer to carefully punch holes at the 5, 6, and 7 o'clock positions of the seal. I then threaded in a medium length drywall screw (having no metal screws available of the needed length) just enough to capture the metal, but not enough to hit the aluminum seat. Finally I engaged the assistance of a little cheater bar and successfully levered the seal out. What a relief!

A new seal has been ordered through my local Honda dealer (Motoworld, El Cajon). Should be in later this week.

Igofar wisely recommended using Permatex Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube to lubricate the edge of the seal to avoid damaging the rubber surface when inserting back into its home.

20200817_114151~2.jpg 20200817_114216~2.jpg 20200817_114659~2.jpg 20200817_115454_HDR.jpg
 
Like a fool I forgot to check the seal when I did the Clutch Slave Cylinder. Can this be done without removing that blasted banjo bolt?
 
I'm getting back to a project I started a few weeks ago to replace my clutch slave cylinder. The problem I'm having at the moment is removing the old oil seal which is the exact topic of this thread. I managed to get a screw started but it went in very near the center rod. When I tried popping the seal out with the pliers on the screw, it just ripped the inner edge of the seal. I've managed to cause more damage to the seal by using a 90 degree long nosed pliers to grab the metal and try prying it out. I've hit it with Blaster PB and let it soak but still no luck. This is what it looks like now. I'd appreciate any suggestions on what to try next.

IMG_1907.jpg
 
Ron_WI said:
I'm getting back to a project I started a few weeks ago to replace my clutch slave cylinder. The problem I'm having at the moment is removing the old oil seal which is the exact topic of this thread. I managed to get a screw started but it went in very near the center rod. When I tried popping the seal out with the pliers on the screw, it just ripped the inner edge of the seal. I've managed to cause more damage to the seal by using a 90 degree long nosed pliers to grab the metal and try prying it out. I've hit it with Blaster PB and let it soak but still no luck. This is what it looks like now. I'd appreciate any suggestions on what to try next.

IMG_1907.jpg
Click to expand...
Try a hook tool like one in this set https://www.harborfreight.com/pick-...Gzukd1aVNTPo8pWEYDwaAqlGEALw_wcB#gad_source=1
 
Ron_WI said:
I'm getting back to a project I started a few weeks ago to replace my clutch slave cylinder. The problem I'm having at the moment is removing the old oil seal which is the exact topic of this thread. I managed to get a screw started but it went in very near the center rod. When I tried popping the seal out with the pliers on the screw, it just ripped the inner edge of the seal. I've managed to cause more damage to the seal by using a 90 degree long nosed pliers to grab the metal and try prying it out. I've hit it with Blaster PB and let it soak but still no luck. This is what it looks like now. I'd appreciate any suggestions on what to try next.

IMG_1907.jpg
Click to expand...
Slide the lift rod out then you can access the seal center. A small rolling head pry bar works great.
 
From what I remember when I serviced the SC there's not much space in there.
At this point I'd try inserting a small screwdriver between the OD of the seal and engine case, to create some play in there. I'd even smooth out the one side of the screwdriver blade to protect the engine case. I'd start where there's missing material, should be weaker there. Or, you can try another screw pull at the top where's meat left - never know...
But first I'd pull the rod as much as it comes out and wrap some tape on it just in case.
 
draser said:
From what I remember when I serviced the SC there's not much space in there.
At this point I'd try inserting a small screwdriver between the OD of the seal and engine case, to create some play in there. I'd even smooth out the one side of the screwdriver blade to protect the engine case. I'd start where there's missing material, should be weaker there. Or, you can try another screw pull at the top where's meat left - never know...
But first I'd pull the rod as much as it comes out and wrap some tape on it just in case.
Click to expand...
I'm thinking of trying another screw but I have to figure out how to get a hole started up there. I looked at a flexible drill bit at Harbor Freight but that seemed pretty big so I ended up buying the picks I mentioned above. May give that a try though.
 
Ron_WI said:
I'm thinking of trying another screw but I have to figure out how to get a hole started up there. I looked at a flexible drill bit at Harbor Freight but that seemed pretty big so I ended up buying the picks I mentioned above. May give that a try though.
Click to expand...
See post #26
 
If CruSTy's post above fails, can I suggest using TWO screws - one either side of the rod - this seal needs pulling STRAIGHT out parallel rather than from one side.

Then use your block of wood etc. to tease out the seal as you were attempting before...?

Hope it works.
 
Not sure about the 13 but on the ST1100 that rod pulls out. It would give more room to get behind it with something sizeable.
 
Ron_WI said:
Thanks CruSTy. As far as I can tell, the center rod is too long to slide out with the engine in place. I can pull it out a ways but it's obstructed by the frame. Is this something you've been able to do and if so, how?
Click to expand...
You are correct. I forgot the St clutch is in the front. The last 3 I replaced were Valkyries. I believe on my st1300 I just used a flat blade screwdriver. Hope you find something that works.
 
I'm thinking a small narrow blade screwdriver (modify one for this purpose) a little shorter than the available space and a pry bar (stick of wood) inserted in the gap between screwdriver and the rear bulkhead where stand mounts. Using the pry bar you can then force/insert the blade between the seal OD and engine case to create a gap (I'd start where seal meat is less) and loosen up the seal in the recess. It may only take one insert to have the seal loose enough to pull out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom