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YUK! ...and yes, that is pretty much what mine looked like.
Did you manage to get the new one on OK?
Supra - glad you got at least one of them done.
Article [13] ST1300 - Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
- Thread starter MaxPete
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YUK! ...and yes, that is pretty much what mine looked like.
Did you manage to get the new one on OK?
Supra - glad you got at least one of them done.
Yep, all the goo cleaned away and the new one is on, just have to fill and bleed, check for leaks and button up the plastic. You were absolutely right about the crush washers, no way they would stay put without the Vaseline! Not with my fumbly thumbs for sure. Probably saved an hour of frustration and expletives! I'm as adventurous as the next guy, enjoy a challenge and I love to fix things but......I would have hated to wade into this one cold and clueless! This forum is an invaluable resource, but you guys already know that. Thanks Pete!
Danny
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hmmmm. after looking at that image I my change my mind and order up a new one. I was thinking of just getting the new oil seals. Butttttt......
I will be ordering a new one and new oil seals. In whatever free time I have, i'll thoroughly clean the one removed and rebuild it as a backup.
I will be ordering a new one and new oil seals. In whatever free time I have, i'll thoroughly clean the one removed and rebuild it as a backup.
I'm not done yet... This weekend!
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Well, I’m sure it’ll be fun!
As for a rebuild...yeah, I just don’t thinks it’s worth it.
Hello my Brothers, sorry I have been off line. I just had a Mamogram, I did not know men could have them. I now can empathize even more with my wife and all women, it's not fun.
I have ordered the parts needed to change my CSC. I have some of the tools and should get them all picked up or ordered next week. Did anyone have any trouble with any bolts breaking in this entire process? I had a real problem with fragile bolts breaking when replacing my heads a few years ago after just trying to adjust the shims.
I really appreciate the awesome spirit, support, knowledge sharing, mechanical ingenuity, time and frustration saving secrets shared, and the Love (in a strictly, man cave, Christian sort of way).
I am not sure when I will make the attempt or try to coordinate any help from any of my brothers here.
But you all truly Rock! Thank you. I can't believe how helpful all the posts are here and thru-out ST-Owners!!!
I have ordered the parts needed to change my CSC. I have some of the tools and should get them all picked up or ordered next week. Did anyone have any trouble with any bolts breaking in this entire process? I had a real problem with fragile bolts breaking when replacing my heads a few years ago after just trying to adjust the shims.
I really appreciate the awesome spirit, support, knowledge sharing, mechanical ingenuity, time and frustration saving secrets shared, and the Love (in a strictly, man cave, Christian sort of way).
I am not sure when I will make the attempt or try to coordinate any help from any of my brothers here.
But you all truly Rock! Thank you. I can't believe how helpful all the posts are here and thru-out ST-Owners!!!
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Hi Beedlebugs: it’s great to have you back! Hope you’re feeling better - I’ve heard of men having that test and indeed, not fun.
To your question about breaking bolts, my response is nope. The CSC is held onto the rear engine case by three small (6mm) hex head bolts and they aren’t all that tight. Just to be sure however, I ordered three new ones and installed them.
As I recall it, none of the other fasteners were problematic either. In fact, this job really doesn’t require very many fasteners to be removed and that’s one thing about it that is good. Once you get the black belly fairing off the bike, the real issues are:
1) getting access under the bike (use some sort of mat on which to lie and follow the steps re: switching between the centre stand and side stand):
2) seeing what you are doing (a really good shop light and a flashlight are very handy here);
3) dealing with the hydraulic system: getting the old fluid out and the new fluid in (the elcheapo $39.00 vacuum bleeder was golden for this part of the job);
4) getting the crush washers lined up on the banjo bolt (that’s where the Vaseline is so helpful);
5) generally keeping track of your tools etc. when you’re flat on your back (having a helpful assistant to hand you things is a good thing);
Please note - since I wrote the article, another Forum member contributed the fact that a new gasket really isn’t necessary because the gasket doesn’t actually seal anything (and he is dead right there). Sooo...I would say that as long as the old gasket is smooth and flat when you take off the leaking CSC, you could simply leave it there and mount the new unit on it.
That reduces the grief factor significantly since getting the old gasket off the engine case is a pain.
I believe it was SupraSabre or perhaps Igofar who suggested removing the speed sensor from the rear engine case to improve access and that is a good idea too.
Don’t forget a little dab of grease on the end of clutch pushrod where it engages in the CSC piston as per the manual.
Other than those thoughts, it’s really just a slightly awkward job that isn’t that bad and saves a ton of money (well over $1000 in labour).
Anyhow, please keep us posted and best of luck for a successful repair and a return to riding.
Kind regards,
Pete
To your question about breaking bolts, my response is nope. The CSC is held onto the rear engine case by three small (6mm) hex head bolts and they aren’t all that tight. Just to be sure however, I ordered three new ones and installed them.
As I recall it, none of the other fasteners were problematic either. In fact, this job really doesn’t require very many fasteners to be removed and that’s one thing about it that is good. Once you get the black belly fairing off the bike, the real issues are:
1) getting access under the bike (use some sort of mat on which to lie and follow the steps re: switching between the centre stand and side stand):
2) seeing what you are doing (a really good shop light and a flashlight are very handy here);
3) dealing with the hydraulic system: getting the old fluid out and the new fluid in (the elcheapo $39.00 vacuum bleeder was golden for this part of the job);
4) getting the crush washers lined up on the banjo bolt (that’s where the Vaseline is so helpful);
5) generally keeping track of your tools etc. when you’re flat on your back (having a helpful assistant to hand you things is a good thing);
Please note - since I wrote the article, another Forum member contributed the fact that a new gasket really isn’t necessary because the gasket doesn’t actually seal anything (and he is dead right there). Sooo...I would say that as long as the old gasket is smooth and flat when you take off the leaking CSC, you could simply leave it there and mount the new unit on it.
That reduces the grief factor significantly since getting the old gasket off the engine case is a pain.
I believe it was SupraSabre or perhaps Igofar who suggested removing the speed sensor from the rear engine case to improve access and that is a good idea too.
Don’t forget a little dab of grease on the end of clutch pushrod where it engages in the CSC piston as per the manual.
Other than those thoughts, it’s really just a slightly awkward job that isn’t that bad and saves a ton of money (well over $1000 in labour).
Anyhow, please keep us posted and best of luck for a successful repair and a return to riding.
Kind regards,
Pete
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PM sent with the white courtesy :call: number in case you need any assistance over the phone.
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Excellent - glad it worked out for you Lonnie!
Pete
Pete
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Thank Igofar - you’re a champ.
Lemme know if/how I can help.
Pete
Lemme know if/how I can help.
Pete
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I’ll contribute to the cost if anyone would take the lead on that.
Pete
Pete
I did finish the 2010, but the clutch is still slipping. And now with the '04#2 not starting, I'll try to replace the clutch and waterpump on the 2010 ASAP!
attacking th slave Cyl. yup she need an exchange. scoring on the inner wall resulted in a new assembly. thanks for the information on the new replacement unit! I kept the speed sensor in during the removal. While i'm here...I probably look to get a longer shift shaft to go GP
Any experience a torn lifter rod torn seal? What the part # and can this be replaced from outside engine installed in the bike?
looks like it may be #14 on https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2006-honda-st1300-st1300-rear-crankcase-cover/o/m2529sch414338
NOW, is this installed from inside the engine or outside of the engine???? inquiring minds want to know. dow does one go about working this bugger out?
Any experience a torn lifter rod torn seal? What the part # and can this be replaced from outside engine installed in the bike?
looks like it may be #14 on https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2006-honda-st1300-st1300-rear-crankcase-cover/o/m2529sch414338
NOW, is this installed from inside the engine or outside of the engine???? inquiring minds want to know. dow does one go about working this bugger out?
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attacking th slave Cyl. yup she need an exchange. scoring on the inner wall resulted in a new assembly. thanks for the information on the new replacement unit! I kept the speed sensor in during the removal. While i'm here...I probably look to get a longer shift shaft to go GP
Any experience a torn lifter rod torn seal? What the part # and can this be replaced from outside engine installed in the bike?
looks like it may be #14 on https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2006-honda-st1300-st1300-rear-crankcase-cover/o/m2529sch414338
NOW, is this installed from inside the engine or outside of the engine???? inquiring minds want to know. dow does one go about working this bugger out?
Hi NT650Hawk: Sorry, but my lifter rod was good and so I just packaged it back up and got away with the slave cylinder only. My gut tells me that the rod seal is installed from the OUTSIDE - but i just don't know for sure. I'll bet the manual says....
Pete
Hi Pete, good write up. Guess you've had a good year or so of riding now since the repairs, it seems like our problem was a lot more prevalent than we thought! The only thing I found that eased the assembly was to leave the cylinder loose on the alignment pins while starting the banjo fitting bolt. Found it easier to start the bolt threads with the cylinder able to move about just a little, other than that seems you've helped a lot of ST owners.
Best regards,
Mike S.
Best regards,
Mike S.