ST1300 cutting out at traffic lights, low speed turns and 60 mph.

Marcopolo

Marcopolo

Joined
Aug 6, 2020
Messages
9
Age
63
Location
Portstewart northern ireland
A year ago I bought my 2002 ST1300 with 39000 miles. I took it on a trip to the Outer Hebrides last July. On the way home from Oban the engine started to cut out on me, whilst I was riding at motorway speeds. This happened several times on my journey back to the ferry. When I got home I left it with my local mechanic to sort out. Up until last week the engine had not cut out, then just as I pulled into a petrol station on a 1/4 mile from my house it cut out. I rode for another 35 miles and then in traffic lights it cut out. The scary thing is it also cut out when I was riding at 60 mph in the wet and locked the rear tyre. In addition I have noticed today that the engine temp is flickering between 2 1 and 0 bars, and think that this is the thermostat sticking. Can this make the engine cut out? The sequence is engine cuts out, red HISS light comes on solid and F1 red light comes on. If I put bike in neutral and restart it starts again, but could cut out within 1 mile. This is too dangerous to ride. Would be grateful if anyone could suggest what the problem might be. Battery is fully charged.
 
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I think it is unlikely that the flickering temperature gauge is related to the actual water temperature as it simply won't change quickly, and certainly will never go down to 0 bars, so I think the problem is most likely electrical. Given the behaviour of the HISS and FI light it sounds like electrical power is being intermittently lost, so first step would be to check the battery connections, after that I would be checking the ignition switch for looseness or dirty contacts. Todd's suggestion for checking the ground connections is also very sound, as an example the water temperature system relies on a change in sensor resistance (reduces with temperature) so high resistance (as would result from a poor earth connection) will lead to a low displayed temperature.
 
Agree with the thought that this is an electrical issue.
When they say 'check' (as in the battery, the grounding points, the connections) - it is a good idea to unfasten them, check the contacts for rust, clean them up, check the leads where they join the metal connectors and re-install. Battery terminal need to be tightened down.

With connectors, eg the terminals inside the plastic housings - check them for grip - the male and female part of a metal spade connector should not be able to wobble when they are pushed together - it should be a tight slide fit. Also check the wires going in - if you can see them. Any corrosion of the bare metal (if you can see it), blackening or sign of melting is a suspect. Check that the plastic housings of connectors are pushed together.

But really, with so many things being affected, there is a high probability that it is the common connections - eg the battery terminals, and the main grounding points. There is one under the rear of the tank with a lot of wires going to it, which had a recall in the early years. I don't recall if the 2004 model was affected.

Another possibility is an intermittent short. Unlikely on the original equipment as a fuse would blow. But if extra add-ons have been tagged onto the battery posts, they would be suspect - they may be fused, but the lead between battery and fuse is still live all of the time and sometimes the fuse can be a long way from the battery. Disconnect them all and secure the ends where they cannot flop around and touch the battery until you get this sorted.
 
Update. Bike was still misbehaving but not all the time. It cut out twice at a junction earlier today. Had a look around and noticed that the side stand connection was black inside. Removed this and saldered wires together. Only tested for 4 miles but didnt cut out. Will take for longer run tomorrow.
 
Your bike is 20 years old. It sounds to me like it needs a thorough going over and you need to do lots of routine and preventative maintenance. What kind of maintenance history/maint. log came with your bike when you bought it?
 
jfheath said:
Agree with the thought that this is an electrical issue.
When they say 'check' (as in the battery, the grounding points, the connections) - it is a good idea to unfasten them, check the contacts for rust, clean them up, check the leads where they join the metal connectors and re-install. Battery terminal need to be tightened down.

With connectors, eg the terminals inside the plastic housings - check them for grip - the male and female part of a metal spade connector should not be able to wobble when they are pushed together - it should be a tight slide fit. Also check the wires going in - if you can see them. Any corrosion of the bare metal (if you can see it), blackening or sign of melting is a suspect. Check that the plastic housings of connectors are pushed together.

But really, with so many things being affected, there is a high probability that it is the common connections - eg the battery terminals, and the main grounding points. There is one under the rear of the tank with a lot of wires going to it, which had a recall in the early years. I don't recall if the 2004 model was affected.

Another possibility is an intermittent short. Unlikely on the original equipment as a fuse would blow. But if extra add-ons have been tagged onto the battery posts, they would be suspect - they may be fused, but the lead between battery and fuse is still live all of the time and sometimes the fuse can be a long way from the battery. Disconnect them all and secure the ends where they cannot flop around and touch the battery until you get this sorted.
Click to expand...
Sorted, connector for side stand was black inside, cut it out and saldered wires, 1090 mile trip last week , never missed a beat.
 
jfheath said:
Agree with the thought that this is an electrical issue.
When they say 'check' (as in the battery, the grounding points, the connections) - it is a good idea to unfasten them, check the contacts for rust, clean them up, check the leads where they join the metal connectors and re-install. Battery terminal need to be tightened down.

With connectors, eg the terminals inside the plastic housings - check them for grip - the male and female part of a metal spade connector should not be able to wobble when they are pushed together - it should be a tight slide fit. Also check the wires going in - if you can see them. Any corrosion of the bare metal (if you can see it), blackening or sign of melting is a suspect. Check that the plastic housings of connectors are pushed together.

But really, with so many things being affected, there is a high probability that it is the common connections - eg the battery terminals, and the main grounding points. There is one under the rear of the tank with a lot of wires going to it, which had a recall in the early years. I don't recall if the 2004 model was affected.

Another possibility is an intermittent short. Unlikely on the original equipment as a fuse would blow. But if extra add-ons have been tagged onto the battery posts, they would be suspect - they may be fused, but the lead between battery and fuse is still live all of the time and sometimes the fuse can be a long way from the battery. Disconnect them all and secure the ends where they cannot flop around and touch the battery until you get this sorted.
Click to expand...
yes, that was it, side stand connector was black inside!
 
Did you bypass the side stand switch or just solder the connections? I've rarely tried to start my bike in gear and even more rarely with the side stand down and in gear, but it is a nice safety feature.
 
Beware 2009 on side stand switches work in opposite way to earlier years. Switch closed/open when stand up.

Was called for help by friend who had a suspect side stand switch and thought a used on off a late model would be the better buy.
 
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