A little advice, please. I sanded the weld spots and the slider is now moving freely. Cables were frayed, so I reversed. All is reassembled except the motor. However the sliders are not freely moving by hand. I'm not sure how free they should be? Easy to slide? Some resistance? Hard?
Article [13] ST1300 - Electric Windshield Assembly - Remove / Clean / Reinstall
- Thread starter warofman9
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- 1300 windshield
I got it to move by hand with only a little resistance. Sanding the welds was not enough. I widened the tracks slightly by lightly hammering a podger into them.
I reassembled all with a new gear from Ricke(warofman9). The old one was stripped.
Next I refitted to the bike. Powered up and still moving freely between the limit switches.
However, when I put the dash all back together and the windscreen on, it misaligned on first attempt. Stuck again.
I was baffled and left hoping the new gear was not stripped. I did manage to get it working reasonably easy and the gear was not stripped.
Removed cover from motor.
Operated it and could see it was the upper cable not moving. It turned out to be more worn than I thought.
Hand moving the slider up and down, I rotated the cable by 180 degrees with a vice grip.
Retracted the cable, then slowly fed it out bending it hard with a pliers making sure the good side was facing the gear.
When I was finished it sat freely in a circle.
Made sure the sliders lined up again, closed it all up and working perfect once again.
And as Ricke(warofman9) says in his attachment, a clean dog is a good dog. Well I say, a clean cat is still a lazy cat.
I've just installed the new gear from Ricke. Everything has been cleaned up, the sliders and tracks lubed. However, when I fit the slider to the track and loosely do up the two 8mm bolts on the slider, it is only with a great deal of effort that I can get it to move along the track. When I remove the shim it slides up and down really smoothly. Question is - would it be ok to leave the shim out?
I personally think it is OK to remove these shims....I didn't need to, but anything to reduce restrictive movement would be a plus.
Make sure all contact points are smooth.
Thanks for that, Ricke, they're staying out. I guess I'll find out if there are any problems when the bike's back on the road but I can't see that there should be.
Edit: I found that sliding the dog along the track over the shim rather than pushing the shim in from the side gave me the free movement I was after. So, the shims have been used.
Edit: I found that sliding the dog along the track over the shim rather than pushing the shim in from the side gave me the free movement I was after. So, the shims have been used.
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Happy days
Having totally dismantled the screen mechanism, replacing the drive gear and scrupulously cleaning and lubing every moving part and track, I've just fitted it to the bike. Tentatively turned the ignition on and pressed the switch..... it is so smooth, just as good as new (actually, probably better).
One thing to watch out for when replacing the mechanism on the bike is to make sure that the double connector for the instrument cluster is behind the lower part of the mechanism and doesn't end up forward of it..I bolted everything down and went to connect the cluster only to find the wiring didn't have enough length to reach.
lets try again.
Anyways, all done now
Many thanks to warofman9, without his excellent write-up I could never have done this.
Having totally dismantled the screen mechanism, replacing the drive gear and scrupulously cleaning and lubing every moving part and track, I've just fitted it to the bike. Tentatively turned the ignition on and pressed the switch..... it is so smooth, just as good as new (actually, probably better).
One thing to watch out for when replacing the mechanism on the bike is to make sure that the double connector for the instrument cluster is behind the lower part of the mechanism and doesn't end up forward of it..I bolted everything down and went to connect the cluster only to find the wiring didn't have enough length to reach.
Anyways, all done now
Many thanks to warofman9, without his excellent write-up I could never have done this.
What type of lube should you use? I'm hoping something other than KY.
Kentucky?
Probably not a serious question but;
There are a plethora of lubricants available. probably all probably better than Honda OEM. Soap based white lithium grease NLGI-2 grade
White Lithium Grease. Lithium soap base grease lubricant provides superior lubrication and reduces friction and wear to a minimum.
Retains consistency over a wide range of temperatures, will not oxidize or harden and provides outstanding protection against corrosion.
Interesting Wiki description of Consistency # that I stumbled on doing grease research
NLGI consistency number From Wikipedia, and attached chart.
The NLGI consistency number (sometimes called ?NLGI grade?) expresses a measure of the relative hardness of a grease
used for lubrication, as specified by the standard classification of lubricating grease established by the National Lubricating
Grease Institute (NLGI). The NLGI consistency number alone is not sufficient for specifying the grease required by a particular
application. However, it complements other classifications (such as ASTM D4950 and ISO 6743-9). Besides consistency,
other properties (such as structural and mechanical stability, apparent viscosity, resistance to oxidation, etc.) can be tested to
determine the suitability of a grease to a specific application. #2 is called out for this application. YMMV
There are a plethora of lubricants available. probably all probably better than Honda OEM. Soap based white lithium grease NLGI-2 grade
White Lithium Grease. Lithium soap base grease lubricant provides superior lubrication and reduces friction and wear to a minimum.
Retains consistency over a wide range of temperatures, will not oxidize or harden and provides outstanding protection against corrosion.
Interesting Wiki description of Consistency # that I stumbled on doing grease research
NLGI consistency number From Wikipedia, and attached chart.
The NLGI consistency number (sometimes called ?NLGI grade?) expresses a measure of the relative hardness of a grease
used for lubrication, as specified by the standard classification of lubricating grease established by the National Lubricating
Grease Institute (NLGI). The NLGI consistency number alone is not sufficient for specifying the grease required by a particular
application. However, it complements other classifications (such as ASTM D4950 and ISO 6743-9). Besides consistency,
other properties (such as structural and mechanical stability, apparent viscosity, resistance to oxidation, etc.) can be tested to
determine the suitability of a grease to a specific application. #2 is called out for this application. YMMV
Attachments
Thanks for the lube info. Seriously.
ST Gui
240Robert
Actually I was about to ask the same question. I thought Li grease might work but had no idea.
Fortunately Oldbikefixr beat me to it and saved me from showing my ignorance.
Happy Rob
Rob
Has anyone found after market cables for windshield? I am in Canada
Great write up Ricke. Can't wait to put in all back together once I get the new drive gear 
That's the one I was looking for - thanks!!
My windshield is perpetually down. I did hours of work plus a new gear, rotated the cables, lubricated, cleaned the sliders, sanded the sliders, put it all together, tested it before putting the dash back on. When everything was buttoned up I lowered the windshield. Fine. Tried to raise it and after a few inches the left side jammed and the sound of the cable jumping over the gear is back. The right side was frozen before I started this project.
I may order some new sliders if they are not too expensive and try that. The old ones were hanging up on spots.
If this does not work, I will leave the windshield unplugged and ride with it in the down position.
I am thinking seriously about selling this bike soon. It only has 27K.
It has become a maintenance HOG.
Gezzy...any offers???
I may order some new sliders if they are not too expensive and try that. The old ones were hanging up on spots.
If this does not work, I will leave the windshield unplugged and ride with it in the down position.
I am thinking seriously about selling this bike soon. It only has 27K.
It has become a maintenance HOG.
Gezzy...any offers???
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Paawpabear
Ken Morse
If I can get my screen all the way down, I will be leaving mine there also. It seems to be more trouble than it's worth, especially since I've only used mine half a dozen times in the past 8 years.
These windshield mechanisms are very temperamental. Sometimes the gear is bad, other times it's the cables.
I've replaced two assemblies and rebuilt one. The one I rebuilt, I had good cables and good slides, but not together. I had to replace the slides on the cables!
I've replaced two assemblies and rebuilt one. The one I rebuilt, I had good cables and good slides, but not together. I had to replace the slides on the cables!
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I just picked up a good used assembly with just over 21K miles from ebay for $120. They originally wanted $145, but then reduced all there parts by 18%, which was enough for me to snag it!
Windshield Assembly
Windshield Assembly