Article [13] ST1300 Front Fork Overhaul: An Illustrated Bibliography

[pmatulew]

Just went through this process again since I wasn't happy with the way it felt last year. Too harsh with the 10 weight I put in it. Wanted to verify my work, double check the bushings, and change the fluid to something else. After reading Michaels work I went through the process of flushing the damper cartridge. Have never done that before. Seemed like a reasonable idea.

Now I have more questions than I started with. (@Igofar to the white courtesy phone). Michael references pushing both the damper rod and the fork tube down to the bottom stop against last inch resistance. I can feel that in my fork tube, but the damper rod just hits a hard stop at the bottom. With fluid pumped in I get resistance up and down, but at the bottom it's just a full stop. Wondering if perhaps that is a model year change? My 2004 might have an earlier version damper that is set up different? Also wondering about the center of the damper rod. While flushing it out I see that there is a vent hole in the side closer to the top of the damping rod, but there doesn't seem to be any connecting passage through to the bottom. Yes? No? Anything to be concerned about?

 

[ST1100Y]

My bike had about 60,000 miles on it and was 8 years old when I did the first fork oil change.

Which explains the disgusting color of the sludge you'd drained shown in your OP...
I find 36,000km/22,500miles (as recommended by my STerchanic) quite adequate, by then the oil has darkened, but still sowing attributes like coloring, slight transparency, oily consistence... and no solidified dark deposits found inside the fork bottoms and dampers... everything flushes out easily with a squirt of brake cleaner...
Frequent intervals also preserve bushings & fork bottoms from wear... plus you've the visual inspection...

 

[Keith Weller]

This is one of next jobs latter this yr. you have done a Gt job on this

 

[dlittmann]

I am about to pull the forks off my 05 (I am certain I blew the left seal during some riding in late summer) and decided to put in some Sonic Springs. I have never done the forks before as I have only owned the noble steed for a year but decided to try and do as much of my own maintenance on the bike that I can do. I read through this write up and the Sonic spring write up but I am wondering for anyone that has done the change over, when adding the oil do you follow the Honda service manual (62 mm) or did you follow the sonic springs installation (Fluid Height: Fork travel + 20 mm). I know this next question will sound stupid but is that 20 mm from the top of the fork pipe with the fork fully compressed or something else? Thanks

 

[Fenianbastard]

Great article and brilliant links but I have this issue.

 

[Kevcules]

Great article and brilliant links but I have this issue.

Looks like an aftermarket steering add on covering your fork tube cap. Loosen all the fork tube clamp bolts and slide the tube down and out. You will have to clamp the tube and loosen the 17mm cap on top. Then disassemble as the article directs you.
Good Luck

 

[Fenianbastard]

Thanks Kevcules. That is what I thought but I am trying to do this by the book.

 

[Fenianbastard]

I still can’t get the fork cap off!. I tried Kevcules idea, PB blaster, in a vice with breaker bar, heat gun and it won’t budge. Ideas?

 

[dduelin]

A little more information please. Did you try removing the handlebar riser so you can raise the tube a little and then use the clamp bolts to hold the tube from turning? A vise might scratch the tube and still not hold it from turning. You would raise the tube a little so the top clamp bolt is not preventing the cap from turning.

 

[Fenianbastard]

Removing the handlebar riser is my next move. I have the fork wrapped in rubber tubing in the vise.

 

[Kevcules]

You could try a couple shots with an impact gun if you have one, otherwise yeah, re install the tube, tighten the lower set of pinch bolts only if you don't raise the tube higher than the upper pinch bolts, remove the risers and loosen the cap.

Good luck...

 

[aniwack]

I’ve had to ‘tap’ one with an impact to get it loose then used the breaker bar to finish the removal.

 

[Fenianbastard]

You could try a couple shots with an impact gun if you have one, otherwise yeah, re install the tube, tighten the lower set of pinch bolts only if you don't raise the tube higher than the upper pinch bolts, remove the risers and loosen the cap.

Good luck...

Thanks
I tried with an impact gun and nothing.

 

[Kevcules]

Thanks
I tried with an impact gun and nothing.

Wow! Sounds like it's been on there for a while.

 

[Fenianbastard]

Wow! Sounds like it's been on there for a while.

And this is just the first one

 

[Kevcules]

And this is just the first one

How did you make out?
Today I removed my front shocks and replaced the seals and fluid. My tubes had a few pits on them. Re-assembled with a set of NOJ socks.
Top caps came loose real easy. Make sure to lubricate the threads of the caps with fluid on assembly.

 

[Fenianbastard]

How did you make out?
Today I removed my front shocks and replaced the seals and fluid. My tubes had a few pits on them. Re-assembled with a set of NOJ socks.
Top caps came loose real easy. Make sure to lubricate the threads of the caps with fluid on assembly.

After many days of heat,7 cold and force I got it off. Those boots look good. Thanks

 

[k2ramair]

Everything is outstanding. I only have one question: how do I remove the oil lock pieces from the dampers? Mine are not coming off easily.

I agree - this is fantastic.

I too am unable to remove the silver oil lock piece for the damper. I guess I could just leave it?

 

[Arellcat]

Thanks to CYYJ/Michael for taking the time to write such a comprehensive guide. I came back from my holiday to find fork oil spattered all over the left-hand side of the mudguard and busily attracting dirt on the SMC and below, so am about to embark on a task to replace the seals, which at 50k miles may be original but I've no idea. Slim pickings at B&Q for the necessary plumbing supplies and baulking at the price of the (admittedly very swish) Motion Pro bushing banger inner, but Honda Classics has something that will do nicely instead.

 

[Sadlsor]

Michael made that guide because he knew you'd need it.