Article [13] ST1300 - Lower Steering Stem, Top Bridge, and Steering Bearings Replacement

[DannoXYZ]

Despite the initial challenges, I'm ultimately satisfied with the bearings. They provide a more neutral and stable feeling, which aligns well with my preferences. However, I still can't comprehend why they tend to loosen significantly after installation. Do you have any insights or ideas on this matter?

There's 2 variables involved here:

1. pressing in races with washer/cup + big bolt. Definitely better than pounding them in with hammers. But due to compression, it bulges them outwards a little and prevents fully seating them all way down. I've verified this with prussian-blue and removing. So over time, the weight and pounding over bumps will seat them fully and result in needing to adjust tighter.

2. surface break-in takes time as well. If you remove and look after couple thousand miles, you'll see that surface of bearings and races are shiny rather than smooth mat-finish. This removes some material from surfaces as they wear in and results in extra clearance that needs to be adjusted out.

 

[Sidekick]

There's 2 variables involved here:

1. pressing in races with washer/cup + big bolt. Definitely better than pounding them in with hammers. But due to compression, it bulges them outwards a little and prevents fully seating them all way down. I've verified this with prussian-blue and removing. So over time, the weight and pounding over bumps will seat them fully and result in needing to adjust tighter.

2. surface break-in takes time as well. If you remove and look after couple thousand miles, you'll see that surface of bearings and races are shiny rather than smooth mat-finish. This removes some material from surfaces as they wear in and results in extra clearance that needs to be adjusted out.

The surface break-in is something to take in account when installing a new set, the need to re-torque in the next thousand miles has to be expected.
That was exactly my question and you are confirming my own experience.
Thank you for sharing.

 

[970mike]

I have the tapered head bearings in my 07 ST1300 and they have been in there for almost 172,000 miles. I was getting to much play in my handle bars, I started to think that my head bearings were starting to wear. I pulled everything apart and the bearings were in great shape. My problem turned out to be the rubber in the top bridge. I ordered a new top bridge and now that it is installed everything is nice and solid.

 

[Sidekick]

The Honda service manual says to use a new lock washer. I realize most owners don't have one of those and rely on youtubers.

Unbecoming reaction coming from you, did you forget having a channel on YouTube? (https://www.youtube.com/@dduelin)
The main point is about explaining the "why" behind things. Where do you find that in the manual?

 

[Andrew Shadow]

The Honda Common Service Manual, which is an accompaniment to the Honda model specific service manual, instructs to replace this washer with new. I do not recall it providing any explanation as to why however. Having the reason why is always a benefit in my opinion.

Not reusing things like conical washers and wave washers, another variant, is a standard practice in most mechanical industries. The same applies to other hardware such as snap-rings that do double duty acting as shims to locate a part in a specific position in addition to being a locking device.

 

[dduelin]

Unbecoming reaction coming from you, did you forget having a channel on YouTube? (https://www.youtube.com/@dduelin)
The main point is about explaining the "why" behind things. Where do you find that in the manual?

Are you asking me where does it say to replace the washer in the service manual or why the service manual is written to a level of assumed basic mechanical knowledge?

Most of the service manuals I have encountered assume the user isn’t a rank novice and has some experience working with tools. Unfortunately that’s how it is.

I also don’t understand the desire for your desire for a pound of flesh over my reference to YouTubers. If that comment was taken as disrespectful or directed at you let me personally apologize to you and anyone it offended.

It’s just my own practice to obtain service manuals on vehicles I have. I meant to say in the earlier post that not everyone shares that practice of referring to a service manual and rely on YouTube videos that may or may not include critical information.

 

[river251]

This is better than spy novels.

 

[docw1]

I recently finished putting tapered bearings in my 1300. I rode it about 1000 miles and it felt fine, but then I noticed a head shake with hands off while decelerating at about 45MPH. So I tightened up the torque just another pound- foot or two and that seemed to alleviate it. But my question is: how do you know when they need readjusting?

Here are my thoughts on tapered bearings based on my experience:

When it comes to finding the right torque for tapered bearings, I've found that it's more about the feeling than relying on special tools. Surprisingly, I discovered that tightening them with my fingers and applying just a bit more pressure creates a perfect setting for a classic setup.

One aspect that continues to puzzle me is the number of miles required for the bearings to properly seat. In my case, I had to readjust and retighten them six times within a span of 5000 miles. To ensure they were seated correctly during installation, I even used an endoscope to inspect them. I took extra caution after receiving warnings from Larry regarding tapered bearings.

Despite the initial challenges, I'm ultimately satisfied with the bearings. They provide a more neutral and stable feeling, which aligns well with my preferences. However, I still can't comprehend why they tend to loosen significantly after installation. Do you have any insights or ideas on this matter?

 

[Sidekick]

a head shake with hands off while decelerating

I’m far from being an expert on the subject, but I’ve picked up a few things along the way. From my experience, head shake is more often caused by uneven tire wear or an unbalanced front wheel rather than a loose steering head bearing. To check the bearing, lift the bike so the front wheel is off the ground, then push and pull the wheel forward and back. If there’s excessive play, you’ll feel it, or even hear a click from the bearing seats, either upper or lower. After just a thousand miles, it wouldn’t be unusual for the bearings to need a slight adjustment. That said, a loose head bearing is rarely the main cause of head shake, though it can be a contributing factor.
Loose bearings usually cause vague steering or a noticeable “clunk” when braking, rather than head shake on their own.
They can, however, make other issues (like worn tires) worse.
I hope it will help.

 

[ST Gui]

The handling of my 750-4 felt odd though I wasn't skilled enough to describe it. I put the bike on the center stand and pulled the wheel to and fro and it seemed fine. When I turned the bars full lock each way there was a definite "notch with the wheel centered.

I elected to change the bearing and found all the races slight dimples and one crack race. Replaced all and all was well again.

With no personal experience I've read that tapered roller bearings are difficult to get "just right" compared to free range ball bearings. If that's the case another adjustment might be in order.