Article [13] ST1300 - Maintenance - Front & Rear Wheel Install and Front Axle Animation

[jfheath]

The photo shows the axle. On the axle is the right spacer/collar and the left spacer/collar. At the left end of the axle (right hand end of the photo) you can just see the shoulder which is essential for drawing all of the parts together. When assembled the left spacer/collar will sit tight against that shoulder. Apologies for not using the correct term 'collar'.

The point of the photo was to enable you to distinguish between the two collars and recognise which collar goes on which side. Without having to get out a caliper !

Put them on a worktop . Both collars have one side that is 10mm ish. Put that face down. Put side by side the flanges should touch be at the same height. 10mm off the work bench. That 10mm side fits against the bearing.

The end if each collar is easy to distinguish - one is 4x bigger than the other 4mm v 16mm. The taller one fits on the axle bolt (right / brake lever ) side, with the 10.1 mm half fitting into the seal, against the face of the bearing.

Your photos. Difficult to tell, but 1132 looks as though that is a 10mm side that I can see. It certainly isnt a 4mm side.
1136 reveals that the axle bolt is protruding out of the axle bolt hole. This suggest that you might have tightened the pinch bolts before everything was aligned - which might mean that when you tightened the axle bolt, the pich bolts were stopping the axle from being pulled across.

Take you wheel out. Take the collars out. Find out which is the left and which is the right. Put the 10mm side into the wheel hub held in place by the seal.
Put the wheel back and slide the axle through. Do not tighten any pinch bolts.

Watch the video. Note that the axle has a step on the left / clutch side. As the axle bolt is tightened, that step meets the left collar and moves it across to meet the left bearing (this is on the right hand side of the video screen). As the axle bolt is tightened more, look at the left side of the video screen. There is a big red arrow on the axle. Watch how the axle pulls across the entire hub so that the right / brake lever side bearing meets the right collar. The entire wheel assembly is then drawn tight against the right / brake lever side fork leg.

At this point the left / clutch lever fork legs has absolutely nothing to do with clamping the wheel. It is merely supporting that end of the axle. In fact the fork leg can move side to side on the axle with the wheel hub clamped firmly in place against the right hand fork leg.

Of course practicalities creep in. If you do not have a large hex driver, then you have to stop the axle from turning somehow. So when you push the axle in, make sure that you press it in firmly so that the end of the axle is almost flush with the fork leg. Then temporarily tighten the left / clutch side axle pich bolts. Then tighten the axle, then tighten the right axle bolt side pich bolts slacken the left / clutch lever pinch bolts again.

Your photo 1136 suggests that at least some of this process wasn't followed. I cannot see the flange on that photo, but it looks as though it has the shiny marks where the collar has been polished previously by the rubber seal. If the axle is tight it might also mean that you may have damaged the seal as it may have been squashed against the bearing. Maybe not if you tightened the axle with the left/clutch side pinch bolts tightened.

The next step is to fit the brakes, because you need to bounce the forks up an down while the brakes are applied. Then the left fork leg needs to be positioned so that the end if the axle is flush. If this isn't the case, as in your photo 1136, then your brake caliper which is now part of the left fork, will be pushed towards the brake disc/rotor and your brakes will bind, which will then apply the rear brakes. You need clearance between the point where the rotor passes through a narrow slot in the caliper bracket. See owners manual

Your photos 1137 and 1138 show the correct collar the correct way round. I cannot tell if the distance you are measuring is the same as the collar measurement. I don't recall whether the fork leg on the inside has a raised part of the moulding. They often do this for cast alloy - Cast a raised part so that it can be machined accurately to provide a smooth face at the correct 'height'.

Or maybe I measured incorrectly when I labelled the diagram. I only used a steel rule. I'll add a bit to the caption for that photo.

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[CruisingDog]

The point of the photo was to enable you to distinguish between the two collars and recognise which collar goes on which side. Without having to get out a caliper !

Put them on a worktop . Both collars have one side that is 10mm ish. Put that face down. Put side by side the flanges should touch be at the same height. 10mm off the work bench. That 10mm side fits against the bearing.

The other side is easy to distinguish - one is 4x bigger than the other 4mm v 16mm. The taller one fits on the axle bolt (right / brake lever ) side, with the 10.1 mm half fitting into the seal, against the face of the bearing.

Your photos. Difficult to tell, but 1132 looks as though that is a 10mm side that I can see. It certainly isnt a 4mm side.
1136 reveals that the axle bolt is protruding out of the axle bolt hole. This suggest that you might have tightened the pinch bolts before everything was aligned - which might mean that when you tightened the axle bolt, the pich bolts were stopping the axle from being pulled across.

Take you wheel out. Take the collars out. Find out which is the left and which is the right. Put the 10mm side into the wheel hub held in place by the seal.
Put the wheel back and slide the axle through. Do not tighten any pinch bolts.

Watch the video. Note that the axle has a step on the left / clutch side. As the axle bolt is tightened, that step meets the left collar and moves it across to meet the left bearing (this is on the right hand side of the video screen). As the axle bolt is tightened more, look at the left side of the video screen. There is a big red arrow on the axle. Watch how the axle pulls across the entire hub so that the right / brake lever side bearing meets the right collar. The entire wheel assembly is then drawn tight against the right / brake lever side fork leg.

At this point the left / clutch lever fork legs has absolutely nothing to do with clamping the wheel. It is merely supporting that end of the axle. In fact the fork leg can move side to side on the axle with the wheel hub clamped firmly in place against the right hand fork leg.

Of course practicalities creep in. If you do not have a large hex driver, then you have to stop the axle from turning somehow. So when you push the axle in, make sure that you press it in firmly so that the end of the axle is almost flush with the fork leg. Then temporarily tighten the left / clutch side axle pich bolts. Then tighten the axle, then tighten the right axle bolt side pich bolts slacken the left / clutch lever pinch bolts again.

Your photo 1136 suggests that at least some of this process wasn't followed. I cannot see the flange on that photo, but it looks as though it has the shiny marks where the collar has been polished previously by the rubber seal. If the axle is tight it might also mean that you may have damaged the seal as it may have been squashed against the bearing. Maybe not if you tightened the axle with the left/clutch side pinch bolts tightened.

The next step is to fit the brakes, because you need to bounce the forks up an down while the brakes are applied. Then the left fork leg needs to be positioned so that the end if the axle is flush. If this isn't the case, as in your photo 1136, then your brake caliper which is now part of the left fork, will be pushed towards the brake disc/rotor and your brakes will bind, which will then apply the rear brakes. You need clearance between the point where the rotor passes through a narrow slot in the caliper bracket. See owners manual

Your photos 1137 and 1138 show the correct collar the correct way round. I cannot tell if the distance you are measuring is the same as the collar measurement. I don't recall whether the fork leg on the inside has a raised part of the moulding. They often do this for cast alloy - Cast a raised part so that it can be machined accurately to provide a smooth face at the correct 'height'.

Or maybe I measured incorrectly when I labelled the diagram. I only used a steel rule. I'll add a bit to the caption for that photo.

.

Thanks. I’ll go through your process tomorrow and see if/where I’ve messed up. I suspect the clutch side collar is flipped.

 

[CruisingDog]

The point of the photo was to enable you to distinguish between the two collars and recognise which collar goes on which side. Without having to get out a caliper !

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BTW, the reason I used the calliper is so that you could see the dimensions instead of some cock-eyed photo that might not tell the whole story.

BTW I tried to move the left (clutch) side strut but I couldn’t get it to stop rubbing the brake disk on the strut. Will have to mess with that and see if I can move it outwards to give enough room. I’m assuming you bounce test with the pinch bolts loose and the brakes removed ? And then do the reassembly of brakes once you get everything aligned ? The reason I put it in backwards is it gave the exact spacing required for the clutch side brakes to seat properly. Pretty piss poor design by Honda TBH. They should have a collar that makes this impossible to screw up. Simple notches+tabs on one side would work!

 

[jfheath]

This is an old photo of my collars in the wheel.



I did note that the flange on your RHS spacer is riding quite high. I wonder if the seal is fully seated. On the other hand I couldn't see the flange on your LHS spacer. I need to think about this.

 

[jfheath]

Sorry - you posted while I was looking for the photo. IF the collar is correct AND the axle is flush THEN the caliper and the brake disk rotor will be in the correct position relative to each other. You. always check the clearance though because it can reveal other issues.

Bouncing - the purpose is to settle the forks and axle and wheel - take out any opportunity for locking in parts which are not quite settled into their natural position. Doing it against the brakes is preferred, but I've done it before with a chock under the front wheel - but I make sure that the bounce back is exaggerated to take the weight away from the chock. You can always redo it once the brakes are fitted. Just. slacken the left pinch bolts.

 

[CruisingDog]

This is an old photo of my collars in the wheel.



I did note that the flange on your RHS spacer is riding quite high. I wonder if the seal is fully seated. On the other hand I couldn't see the flange on your LHS spacer. I need to think about this.

Perfect. This clears it up for me. I defo put the clutch side in the wrong way round. I thought I did but convinced myself because it made the brakes fit easily!!

 

[jfheath]

BTW, the reason I used the calliper is so that you could see the dimensions instead of some cock-eyed photo that might not tell the whole story.

BTW I tried to move the left (clutch) side strut but I couldn’t get it to stop rubbing the brake disk on the strut. Will have to mess with that and see if I can move it outwards to give enough room. I’m assuming you bounce test with the pinch bolts loose and the brakes removed ? And then do the reassembly of brakes once you get everything aligned ? The reason I put it in backwards is it gave the exact spacing required for the clutch side brakes to seat properly. Pretty piss poor design by Honda TBH. They should have a collar that makes this impossible to screw up. Simple notches+tabs on one side would work!

Sorry -I'll answer the questions now.
pinch bolts - only the left side needs to be loose. Axle fully torqued and right pinch bolts tight.
I put the brakes on the bike - but if you are having issues, then that is a pain. A chock or against the garage wall.
Dont use the collar the wrong way round. The metal needs to sit against the metal of the inner race of the bearing.
Put it together following the sequence. If the caliper bracket is catching the brake disc, then there is a different problem. Have you got the wheel the right way round, for example ? Assemble it correctly. If there are still issues we'll start from there !

 

[CruisingDog]

Sorry -I'll answer the questions now.
pinch bolts - only the left side needs to be loose. Axle fully torqued and right pinch bolts tight.
I put the brakes on the bike - but if you are having issues, then that is a pain. A chock or against the garage wall.
Dont use the collar the wrong way round. The metal needs to sit against the metal of the inner race of the bearing.
Put it together following the sequence. If the caliper bracket is catching the brake disc, then there is a different problem. Have you got the wheel the right way round, for example ? Assemble it correctly. If there are still issues we'll start from there !

Pretty sure the wheel is the correct way around as the direction arrow is pointing the correct way. I thought that might be the issue. Will go through it all again tomorrow with revised knowledge. Thanks for your help. Much appreciated. I’ll hopefully figure it out! I suspect bouncing the forks will free up the left side.

 

[CruisingDog]

Thanks for all the help guys. All that was needed was to turn the clutch side collar around. Everything else sorted itself out. I don’t know why the disk was rubbing (maybe that was a fitment issue and I possibly placed the wheel the wrong way round initially). Anyway the wheel fits perfect and runs completely free. Brakes sat back in place and I did the bounce on the front forks to settle them in correctly and then did up the clutch side punch bolts as explained in the video. Thanks for posting this method, I would never have known to do this to get things to true up. Hopefully this will resolve the slight pull that I used to get (funny enough I have a printout of an old email that explains the same thing and I added it to my service manual). I probably never did this since it was serviced at the dealers until me starting to do it myself.

What’s that old adage: If you want a job done properly, do it yourself!!

 

[jfheath]

Great stuff. Glad you have gone for an upgrade on the service personel.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

IF the collar is correct AND the axle is flush THEN the caliper and the brake disk rotor will be in the correct position relative to each other.

In the Honda Service Manual it instructs to check the clearance between the brake disc and the caliper after installation. It calls for a minimum clearance of 0.7mm, or 0.028", of clearance between the two. For discussion purposes let us agree that everything involved in installing the front wheel is installed and assembled correctly.

The left-hand side (clutch lever side) fork leg can be moved laterally on the axle in relation to the wheel, and therefore the brake disc moves laterally as well. If for some reason there was less than the 0.7mm of clearance called for this fork leg can be moved in or out to achieve the required clearance.

On the right-hand side (brake lever side) however, this fork leg can not move laterally in relation to the wheel and brake disc. It is captured and locked in a fixed position by the axle bolt. Therefore the caliper can not be moved laterally in relation to the brake disc either. After correct assembly and installation of the front wheel, if there is less than the required 0.7mm of clearance between the outside face of the right-hand brake disc and the right-hand caliper, what can be done about it?

I can see that this dimension can be influenced by having defective side collars that were undersized from the factory, or an undersized bearing distance collar and/or wheel that allows the right-hand side bearings to be seated to far in to the hub, or a worn right-hand side fork leg or worn bushings in the fork leg that allows the wheel to be drawn to far towards the right-hand side fork leg. If none of these defects are present I don't see how the lateral positioning of the right-hand side (brake lever side) caliper and the outside face of the right-hand side brake disc can be altered if the clearance is found to be below the minimum 0.7mm specification.

 

[Igofar]

Something to think about...
If someone ever put the left side wheel spacer in backwards, and torqued the axle, they could have damaged the wheel bearing dust cover.
When this happens (commonly found) the dust cover gets smashed flat and will screw up the spacing.
I've found them so flat, that the rotors scraped the SMC brackets.
Like I said, just something else to think about

 

[jfheath]

If everything is installed correctly and there are no damaged parts, then that clearance will be there. What I should have also said is that the left hand fork leg should not need to be forced to be flush. The leg should naturally come to rest in the correct position.

For it not to do that would suggest something wrong with the wheel hub installation. The brake disk is bolted to the wheel. But the bearings, collars, spacers, seals are fixed to the axle. So if there is something wrong with the installation then the discs will be out of position relative to the forks when it is installed.

Anecdote.​

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I have a hobby horse topic that I jump on whenever the opportunity arises (and here I go again). The first time I replaced my own bearings I learned a lot. The bearing was difficult to drive out using the 'I don't have the proper tool, so I'll use a long screwdriver' technique of hammering on the inner race from the opposite side. It was difficult because I couldn't get the edge of the blade onto the inner race. The distance collar was in the way and would not budge. On previous bikes that distance collar was a loose fit and would rattle / clunk when I went over bumps. Nowt to do with me, I never changed the wheel bearings on my previous bikes. Just an observation. But the distance collar on the earlier bikes was not clamped tight, but it was on the STs.​

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My first ST was the 1100. I had not ridden a motorcycle for 17 years and a solo motorcycle for another 7 years before that. So the twitch that I felt when leaning over on roundabouts I put down to inexperience, tyres, lack of technique, white lines -which in the uk are raised slightly. It turned out to be bearings.​

​

So I set about replacing them. I eventually got the old ones out, and put the first one in. I don't remember whether my Haynes manual required that a particular bearing be driven in first. It may have done. What bothered me was that when I put the spacer in, it was higher than the shoulder in the hub on which I thought that the second bearing should sit.​

​

I remember posting a query and got some very odd answers. Wrong part. Grind it down. Bit of grit at the other end preventing the collar seating properly. First bearing driven in too far. I wish I'd kept my older posts on here as a record, but I had an "I'm getting out of here moment", and deleted about 2,000 posts. No one seemed to know, so I went hunting for other manuals and discovered the Honda manual on line. I downloaded it chapter by chapter. In there it has the requirement that one named bearing, left or right, has got to be driven in first. The second bearing is driven in until it meets the collar. (which side first is stated, but it is different for the front and rear wheels).​

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I don't know what the gap is between the outer race of the bearing and the shoulder on the side of the second bearing. Enough for me to notice it. My feeling is that it is more than 0.7mm, but I do not know. But whatever it is, if the wrong bearing is put in first, the wheel and brake disks will be displaced by that amount in relation to the hub. So when the axle is flush with the fork leg, the brake disk may then catch on the caliper bracket.

It is a theoretical observation. In practice I think that there is oodles of space between the caliper and the brake disc on both sides.

Oodle is an old Yorkshire term which means greater than 0.7mm ! Or 'more than enough'.

 

[W0QNX]

If none of these defects are present I don't see how the lateral positioning of the right-hand side (brake lever side) caliper and the outside face of the right-hand side brake disc can be altered if the clearance is found to be below the minimum 0.7mm specification.

You covered most every fault that could possibly be less one that thing.

I have a set of well worn down 4.1 mm thick brake disc's I would sell you so you won't lose sleep. Plenty of fork to disc clearance. They are like rotatory blade knife blades thin.

Oh and to Mr. Heath, I love the cad animations!

 

[Andrew Shadow]

I've found them so flat, that the rotors scraped the SMC brackets.

May be but that wouldn't affect the clearance on the right-hand side.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

In practice I think that there is oodles of space between the caliper and the brake disc on both sides.

The reason I am asking is because I don't have oddles of space, just a tinch. Whenever I re-install the front wheel I only have the absolute minimum clearance specified between the right-hand caliper and the right-hand disc outer face. I purchased this motorcycle new and this has been the case since day one. The first front wheel install was done by the dealer as part of the prep. I have no idea what they did or didn't do but by the time that I received it everything was in the correct position. No one has ever touched it except me since and I have never incorrectly installed the spacers.
The left-hand side (SMC side) is fine.

I do have the minimum 0.7mm clearance specified, everything works well, there is no brake dragging, no noise, no hot disc, etc., etc.

The wheel bearings are still the originals installed by Honda at the factory and are still good. Because the clearance is within spec, albeit at the absolute minimum, it didn't seem justified to pull the bearings for this sole reason void of any symptoms.

I re-installed the front wheel a few days ago and checked the clearance as part of the procedure. Doing so brought this to mind again and reminded me that there is no adjustment available as the right-hand fork can't be moved laterally on the axle like the left-hand side can, so it started me wondering again.

I have two sets of wheels. The spare front wheel results in the same minimum clearance as the original wheel.

 

[jfheath]

I'll pop out today and check mine. I've never actually measured the clearance - its impossible to see the gap clearly - I just slide the .7mm feeler gauge alongside the disk / rotor surface and there is never any drag. Nothing like how it feels when checking valve clearances. If you have at least 0.7 on one side AND at least 0.7 on the other then all is good.

There will always be at least 0.7 on one side. It's whether the other side is at least 0.7 as well that matters.

The maximum clearance can only ever be half the difference between the slot in the caliper and the thickness of the brake disc

It'll be good to find out what the actual clearance is on mine because I replaced brake discs all round last June ~6,000 miles ago.

Ok here we are. Some figures taken from my ST1300A9 with new discs (no lip can be felt as yet)

Inner clearance to - 1.33mm
Outer clearance - 1.24mm

ie 'Oodles' !!

Disc Thickness on outside edge 5mm.

Gap in SMC through which disc passes has been taken from my original new bike replaced as a precaution at 36,000 miles. - 7.87 mm

They should add up, but probably won't since one component is not the one on the bike 1.33+1.24+5.0 = 7.57mm Close enough for a rough guide !

But it assumes that the model year is the same (yours is), and that discs and SMC are the same. Did they change the SMC number part way through. Hang on - I have a picture of my current SMC brand new on here somewhere...... https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/smc-info-2008-onwards.160798/ It's a revision R02. My 2009 bike was built in 2013. It may be a later model than yours.

I found a better way of measuring that gap from what I used to do. Press the gauges against the disc and slide it in as in the original version of this picture - but insert it a bit deeper and below the bottom of the slot in the SMC, then from the base of the red arrow, push the feeler gauges UP - in an arc, pivoting on the finger that is holding at the left hand end.

 

[jfheath]

I re-installed the front wheel a few days ago and checked the clearance as part of the procedure. Doing so brought this to mind again and reminded me that there is no adjustment available as the right-hand fork can't be moved laterally on the axle like the left-hand side can, so it started me wondering again.

I forgot to answer this particular point - but the answer is an interesting one. (I think so anyway).

The axle is drawn across to the right as the axle bolt is tightend, and because of the shoulder on the left hand end of the axle, tightening pulls everything together and clamps them tight all against the right hand fork leg.

The Caliper Bracket is clamped firmly on the right hand fork leg. It is fixed and cannot move.
The Axle is also clamped firmly against the right hand fork leg
The bearings are also clamped against the right hand fork leg. For the front wheel, it is the right hand bearing that is driven in first, so it is that one that rests firmly on the hub of the wheel.
That being the case the wheel is firmly clamped in position relative to the right hand fork leg and the right hand cliper bracket.

In theory, do everything correctly and that 0.7mm space is there automatically.

But it does rely on those wheel collars being put on the correct side and the correct way round.
It also relies to a smaller extent on the right bearing being driven in first. (I think it is not a coincidence that the bearing to go in first is the one that is on the side of the tightening axle nut).
And it relies on the person assembling doing things in the correct order.

That last point is possibly the stumbling block for some people.

Not many people have a hex (allen key) driver that will fit in the hex socket at the end of the axles. Yet that axle needs to be prevented from turning.
Not many people realise that tightenting the axle bolt isn't just holding the axle in place - it is providing a clamping force for the entire axle assembly.
A lot of people use the trick of using the fork leg pinch bolts to clamp the axle so that the bolt can be tightened.

So it is not beyong the bounds of possibility for someone to remember this trick and apply it to the right hand axle pinch bolts, rather than to the left. It saves going round the other side, after all. Which allows the axle bolt to be torqued up, but which then prevents the axle from being pulled across to the right. So the wheel is able to slide on its axle - or the axle is now too long, So the clearance will disappear on at least one side.

But worse than that, when the other pinch bolts are tightened and the clearance obtained, the forks will be splayed, and the weight that was held by the axle bolt is now taken up by the pinch bolts. And that axle bolt will work loose. Especially if you do the bit about bouncing the forks.

We've had at least one example on these forums where a bike has suddenly lost its axle bolt, and I reckon that this was the reason for it.

So its not just the securing - it is doing things in the right order that is critical.

The same applies at the back for a different reason. That required the stopper bolt to be secured before the axle. Otherwise it could lock in an angular / alignment difference between the bracket and the bolt, which will knock the caliper out of alignment.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Gap in SMC through which disc passes has been taken from my original new bike replaced as a precaution at 36,000 miles. - 7.87 mm

I have no issues on the left-hand (SMC) side. There is plenty of clearance, so much so that I don't even bother to measure it as it is clearly visible.
The issue is between the right-hand (Brake lever) side brake disc outer face and the right-hand caliper bracket. Depending on where I measure it straddles between being just over 0.7mm and just under.

But it assumes that the model year is the same (yours is), and that discs and SMC are the same.

Mine is a 2009 as well. I don't know when it was manufactured. I have the same SMC as what is in your photo with the drain channel.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

The Caliper Bracket is clamped firmly on the right hand fork leg. It is fixed and cannot move.

Correct. The lateral position of the right-hand brake disc can not be altered relative to the caliper bracket either as the wheel is also clamped tightly against the right-hand fork leg.

A lot of people use the trick of using the fork leg pinch bolts to clamp the axle so that the bolt can be tightened.

I do have a 17mm Allan key and I do use it. As a matter of fact I do not tighten any of the pinch bolts on either side before I torque the axle bolt.

Barring some very strange and unusual defect such as the dimensions of the caliper bracket, or the fork leg mounting points for the caliper bracket, being out of spec somehow the only other explanation that I can see is something to do with the wheel bearings or their installation that is allowing the front wheel to be drawn to far to the right. When the time comes to replace the front wheel bearings I will have to pay extra attention to see if I can find something to explain this.

But it does rely on those wheel collars being put on the correct side and the correct way round.

They are in the correct position and orientation. I have checked and rechecked this so many times every time that I have the wheel off just to be sure that I am not screwing this up. While I do have two sets of wheels, and they both result in the same very low clearance, I only have one set of collars so that is a common point. I guess it is always possible that the right-hand collar is shorter than it should be. I don't recall ever seeing a specification for the length of the collars so I have never measured them. Using the dimensions of the collars that you have posted as a reference, the next time that I have the wheel off I will measure them and compare the results against your dimensions.