ST1300 on a lift for 2 tire change? need tips!

RibsST1300

RibsST1300

Joined
Jul 8, 2006
Messages
152
Location
Lake Murray, SC
Hi all,
I just got my tires from 2Bro's (ordered on Friday night recieved Wednesday!):bow1:

So, I need to have both tires changed. I figured this time rather than pay some honda shop an outrageous sum, I would remove both tires and wheels myself and take them to a local shop.

Questions:
Will the oilpan support the whole bike? I have a craftsman MC lift I could adapt to lift the bike, but don't want to cause damage.

If I lift under oilpan, will the bike be fairly balanced?(I'll strap it to the lift)

Or is it a better idea to work from the centerstand and slightly lift from oilpan to raise front wheel?

Or better to remove and change 1 at a time?

Or, got another way?

Lastly, instructions I have say to lower 1 exhust pipe-I think right side.
Which side is that-the clutch side or throttle side??

THANKS!!
 
Everything pertaining to the bikes left and right is as your sitting on the bike, (facing forward of course) When I do mine I remove the rear first using the center stand, then I place a 2x8 on the oil pan, and use my atv/mc lift to raise the front tire enough to remove it without having to remove the fender, this will result in the center stand coming off the floor a bit so make sure the bike is tied off or have help to keep it from falling over, when the front tire is removed I let the lift back down so the center stand is secure on the ground. ymmv:dr13:
 
When I change my rear tire, its on the centerstand, I back the bike up on to a 2x6 and then shove another 2x6 under where the cstand goes down....
The rear tire comes right out with a little lean without removeing the rear fender.

When I do the front, its on the center stand with a jack/piece of wood at the front of oil pan just to stopping it from dropping.

Spray the bolts on the muffler clamps with wd-40 or Blaster to loosen them before hand as they can get pretty rusty.

The axle comes out the right side ( sitting on bike ) so loosen that muffler and rotate it out and down.

ps ;one tire at a time.
 
PPS;
you may also want to have brakes pads on hand BUT most of all you NEED Moly 60 for the splines. ( and maybe o-rings if you have them ) :)
 
Another thing I do if it will be like this for a while is slip the front axle back in and set the front of the bike down on a jack stand. Hydraulic jacks can slowly go down over time and you might as well have it a little more stable.

Other than that the same. Centerstand with a block of wood under the oil pan and the jack stand on the front when sitting there.
 
Do not take both wheels off at the same time unless you have the right stands. Remove both pipes it will make it easier.
 
I do the same as Danny, center stand for the back. Motorcycle jack to raise the whole bike to do front. Then I will install the front axle with a jackstand under it and lower the bike down on the center stand and jackstand. Nice and stable while I take the rims to get new rubber.
 
I'm working on the rear right now,
Instructions say loosen/remove rear brake stop bolt.
Is that the bolt that holds brake assembly to rear swingarm??
 
NoBull said:
I do the same as Danny, center stand for the back. Motorcycle jack to raise the whole bike to do front. Then I will install the front axle with a jackstand under it and lower the bike down on the center stand and jackstand. Nice and stable while I take the rims to get new rubber.
Click to expand...

Kinda like this.
 
Ok, success so far, rear off.
Front off now too, used jackstand up front to hold. Fron is clean & smooth.
Take a look at my splines-look normal??
22k, second tire change..
Brake side bearing was smoooth
Shaft side bearing was not as smooth, but still spins freely, slight brown discharge around it...
axle is clean, no rust, slight grease coating.
I did buy moly60 to put on when I clean up.
 

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Looks like some water got in there... a little bit of rust??
The Splines look ok ( tho one pic is a bit out of focus ) to me...

But I would think about ordering some new O_RINGS and a replacement for that NOT smooth BEARING... to replace soon.
 
Splines don't look too bad. Looks kinda gooey, is that moly in there?
Who did the last tire change?

Prolly a good idea to get the bearings and brake pads now so you have em for the next tire change.
 
All, thanks for the tips, Tires are on, test ride completed.
I used the technique you all described to use centerstand and jackstand to get both tires off.
Bike was rock solid, instructions from stwiki were good too.
12.5 k with last set..let's see what these get.
 
Tom Mac 04a said:
PPS;
you may also want to have brakes pads on hand BUT most of all you NEED Moly 60 for the splines. ( and maybe o-rings if you have them ) :)
Click to expand...
I’m new, what o-rings? I’m going to attempt to remove the rear wheel for tire change. I have the correct MOLY60. I appreciate any help you could offer.
 
The o-rings are used to keep grease and oil where they belong and water where it doesn’t. On the 1100 there are three but from what I see in the fiche for the 2007 1300, I only see two... see #23 and #24 here.

Someone who knows what they’re talking about will be along shortly to correct me!
 
My local Honda dealer charges $37.50 ea for carry-in, or $50 ride-in. For me, it's a no-brainer; for $25, they can pull them.

I do, however, provide my own Loctite lube for them to apply to the splines. They normally use regular blue Belray grease.
 
I probable replaced at least 15 rear tires on my '03 ST1300. The first couple of times I loosened the muffler per my service manual. After that I learned that all I had to do was lift the right muffler about 1/2 inch with a bunjee across the seat. My '91 ST 1100 had a little space in the bottom of the muffler and you didn't need to touch it. Oh well, at least there was one thing I liked better about the 1100!

Ed Wing
 
You guys realize this post is over 9 years old right? :rolleyes:
 
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