ST1300 - Radiator change

[ST9]

Hello All,

Was about to swap the coolant for some Evans Powersport when I noticed the radiator fins are crumbling away to the touch.

Any after market replacement for the radiator or will i need to make Mr Honda happy once again?

While I'm there, are there any components that must be replaced in the process?

Thanks for any tips

Phil

ST13 A6

 

[jfheath]

There's a company in Wales that will build the middle bit if you provide the outer.

This isn't the one I'd seen before but one a 10 second google search revealed. I have a radiator on my shelf that suffered the same fate. Not enough rinsing down after riding winter roads, I suspect.

Motorbike Radiator Repairs | West Mercia Radiators

Motorbike Radiator Repairs for all makes and models

www.westmerciaradiators.co.uk

and

Motorcycle Radiator Repair - Radiator Repairs

Motorcycle Radiators, Oil Coolers, Heat Exchangers and Fuel Tanks have been repaired at Newquay Radiators and Exeter Radiators since 1982.

www.radiator-repairs.co.uk

Oh - there are two types of radiator. One is £100 cheaper than the other. The model that was fitted to the ST1300AE -2014, and the one fitted to 2008 and later. They changed part way through the 2009 model. My 2009 has the later cheaper version. The only difference I have spotted is that the radiator cap has a different number !

I checked all of the part numbers which fit to it, and to which it fits. No difference, except the cap. But if going down that route, you'd want to make sure for yourself, rather than taking the word of some unknown know-it-all off t'internet.

I changed all of the hoses that attach to the radiator 'cos it is easier to do when you have the radiator off already, and while you can still get hold of them.

 

[ST9]

John, absolutely perfect, I didn't even realise you could rebuild them.

I never really thought to pay that much attention to the spray down of the fins - but I will now.

Thanks a million
Phil

 

[Kevcules]

No need to change anything, but since your bike is 17 yrs old, it may be a good time to replace the two large rad hoses.
I have a 2008 and have had the rad off a few times.
Some people suck out or siphon the fluid from the rad first, so less can spill. Disconnect the right side lower rad hose on the engine and drain remaining fluid. Disconnect the other two small hoses close to the rad cap then disconnect the left side upper rad hose. Disconnect the fan switch plug in connectors on both sides. There are two 8 mm head bolts on each side at the bottom of the rad. Then there is one final bolt on the top middle of the rad to remove. The rad will tilt forward and then you have to slide it to one side to remove.
Depending on your mileage and if it was ever changed before, you have real good access to your thermostat now. You can also snug up all the little coolant hoses around the thermostat housing.
Ive never heard of these rads getting rebuilt but I’m sure its possible. Would be a lot cheaper. Good luck.

 

[CYYJ]

...since your bike is 17 yrs old, it may be a good time to replace the two large rad hoses.

A good idea, however, if you plan to replace the hoses that connect to the radiator, be super-ultra-cautious to not over-torque the clamps that attach the hoses to the radiator. The two little pipes sticking out from the radiator that the hoses fit on are extraordinarily thin-walled. It is very easy to crush those pipes - to deform them beyond hope of repair - when you are tightening up the worm-gear clamps that secure the hoses onto the pipes.

You will not feel any increase in resistance if you over-tighten past the point when the little pipes start to collapse.

Once you have deformed those little pipes on the radiator, it is impossible to un-deform them. A new radiator costs about $500. Don't ask me how I learned all this.

Michael

 

[ST9]

Thank you chaps, appreciated - it s only got 35k so I'm hoping the thermostat is sound.

Usd500? You re lucky, they want £800 (sigh) and more or less £350-500 for the rebuild from one of the above.

 

[jfheath]

Did you get this sorted ? I'm curious to know which route you took - brand new or rebuild ?

 

[billbo]

Ok, I know trhis is an old thread somewhat. But I recently purchased a new to me 2006 with a short 37k on the clock. While inspection it for IMHO "maintenance" needed projects. I noticed a lot of bugs and debris in the rad. fins. Closer inspection shows what I deem fin damaged. So i'm thinking about a new radiator. So to cut to the chase. Has anyone purchased a Chinese knock off rad. off EBAY? The new ones for $128.00? And is anyone using a rad. protector screen/guard to? And who/where did you purchase it please?
Pls. adcise.
Thnx. Bill

 

[Jethro]

Replace the rad cap also.They can suck air into system and cause overheating.

 

[jfheath]

I bought a radiator guard years back. It is still new, unused in its box. The reason is that I saw a friend's radiator which was a right mess. The guard had stopped some muck off UK roads being splattered all over the place, but that which got through the grill lay on the radiator hidden from view, eating away at the alloy. Never seen, never washed. I'd rather be able to see it and clean it up.

I did by a radiator for my A9 a good few years ago. I hit an interesting piece of info. Part way through the life of the A9, the radiator was changed. It isn't listed on the A9 fiches, but David Silver have access to more info based on the model VIN. The newer radiator was £100 cheaper at the time and had a different part number. Mine required the newer part number.

But I was curious. I checked all of the components that fit onto the radiator - includint hat part of the frame. All of the tubes, all of the electrical connectors, fans etc. The only part that was different between the A9 and earlier models was the radiator cap !! So I reckon the filler cap of the radiator is different, and that's all.

The models changed considerably between A6 and A8/A9, and I didn't check to see if the A6 and earlier radiator was the same one that was used on the A8 and the earlier A9.

But it is worth looking into maybe. If the price difference remains as much as that.

A broken fin isn't an issue. If the tube to which it is attached is broken, then that is a problem. You'll see the steam if it is broken, or it will be wet after a cooling down after a dry ride.

 

[Larry Fine]

For Sale - ST 1300 radiator | For Sale

I have a used radiator for a ST1300 that I have had for years that was the original on my 2003 ST, but something flew up from the road and punctured it. Insurance bought me a new one, but I sent this one off to Mylers and they fixed it. New ones are pricy! $70, plus shipping, lower 48 only...

www.st-owners.com

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Closer inspection shows what I deem fin damaged.

The fins might only be bent, not broken or detached. If after a thorough cleaning you find this to be the case, you can try to straighten them out to restore the air flow through them.

And is anyone using a rad. protector screen/guard to? And who/where did you purchase it please?

I don't have one so can't comment on whether they create more problems than they solve.
Below are a few examples;
Radiator Guard Home Made
Black Radiator Guard
Honda ST1300 2002-2014 - Radiator Guard
Radiator Grille ST1300
RadGuard

 

[docw1]

I have a radiator guard. It came with the bike, as the PO had it installed. I suppose t does its job. No rock hits, but how common would that be anyway? Took off the radiator this winter as the bike was pretty muddy from my last ride on wet roads. There was a lot of mud stick in the fins, although, as far as I could tell, it still worked well, even with Evan's coolant.

 

[W0QNX]

A fin comb can't be used on a ST1300 radiator. The fins are below the cross tubes and are not straight.

If you have many fins beat down from the miles, get one off ebay. I spent 4 hours straightening fins once before and AK trip with a scribe mainly and it is tedious work.

 

[Mr.E]

A good soak with degreaser for 1/2 hour then a blast with a hose from the back should get most of the rubbish out, I found both bottom corners were fairly blocked but the rad needs removing to do this properly.
A purchase on eBay - St/St wire mesh size A3 was made and crafted to fit over the Rad front, very cheap & easy to bend into shape.
Unsure of the metal used for the central core however, aluminium corrosion is another problem on the side channels, check it by scraping the black paint with a small screwdriver - white powder (ally oxide) might be evident underneath so careful wire brush, wash, dry and repaint.