Article [13] ST1300 - Rear Flange Bearing Replacement

OK, I found VXB bearing NA4905UU Needle bearing is it good as single twin balls CBR bearing? It's much cheaper then CBR bearing though $9.95 vs $44.00. Any tips?
 
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When interchanging bearings remember that dimensions are not the only thing to go by. Bearings can have different rated working load limits, different heat ratings (tolerances in the bearing typically decide this), different speed ratings (bearing for an analog gauge needle won't have the same rating as a dental drill), and more. For some uses these ratings won't matter much, but for a wheel bearing, I stick with something from a known company which has researched this data for the bearings they are selling.

I worked 10 years in the precision bearing industry before moving to the automotive field.
 
nhdiesel said:
When interchanging bearings remember that dimensions are not the only thing to go by. Bearings can have different rated working load limits, different heat ratings (tolerances in the bearing typically decide this), different speed ratings (bearing for an analog gauge needle won't have the same rating as a dental drill), and more. For some uses these ratings won't matter much, but for a wheel bearing, I stick with something from a known company which has researched this data for the bearings they are selling.

I worked 10 years in the precision bearing industry before moving to the automotive field.
Click to expand...

Maybe someone should have said this to the guy that speced out the flange bearings on the 1300.. ;)
 
Specs on the bearing that Tipster was talking about...

NA4905UU Needle Roller Bearing One Bearing Machined type needle roller bearing NA4905UU, the NA4905UU inner diameter is 25mm, the outer diameter is 42mm, width of the cone (inner ring) is 18mm and the outer ring width is 17mm. * Item: NA4905UU Bearing * Type: Needle Roller Bearing * Closures: Rubber Sealed (both sides) * Dimensions: 25mm x 42mm x 18mm /Metric * ID (inner diameter)/Bore: 25mm * OD (outer diameter): 42mm * inner ring: 18mm * outer ring: 17mm * Size: 25mm x 42mm x 18mm * Quantity: One Bearing (inner cone is included) * Dynamic Load Rating: 2,070 KGF * Static Load Rating: 2,560 KGF Dimensions d dr D B B1 25mm 30mm 42mm 17mm 18mm
 
This is a pretty common problem on the ST1300, We had to start stocking these bearings because of the amount of problems we see with them on a regular basis, definately need to be checked on every rear tire change,
 
been there, done that, got the t-shirt...
and for the new people that haven't seen the inner race when the bearing feels 'gritty"

click for full size

st bearing 007.jpg
 
Thanks for De Tips Sennister can't wait to installing needle bearing type on my wheel's flange. Tom Mac 04a that is what my OEM looks like also missing few balls on one de twin bearings, though I my bike just turning over 90K Miles. After reading this forum, most people had their flange bearing gone bad lots lower mileages then me. Will see how this made in China for $9.95 bearing will holing up?
 
HR Cole & I changed his ST1300 front & rear wheel bearings with the kit from CBR Bearings. The kit included the all the seals and the two o-rings for the rear wheel & the flange bearing (needle type). They do supply very quality bearings, and they know what you need, just tell them what bike you have, and they will get them right out to you.

Harry can correct me if I'm wrong, but the original bearings that we pulled out had over 97,000 miles on them, and they were still good. We changed them anyway. We used this blind bearing puller from harbor freight,

image_14671.jpg

The only real trouble I had was being unfamiliar with this tool, as it was the first time I had ever used one like it. Now that I have added this puller to the tool box, I'm ready to do the next one.
 
Can you please help me with an advice please.
I have this problem looks like the bearing problem exactly but not in the bearings.
I have same eaten up look at the flange bearing opposite site where the o ring (on the rear wheel) sits in the inner race of the flange. It looks like o ring smeared all over but after wire brushing i can see the little hole looking recesses. The 2 metal shouldn't touch each other and the inner race is a very hard metal so i don't have any clue how this happened. Here some pictures, of the flange.20130601_170957.jpg20130601_170741.jpg

Now there is no marking on the wheel side. So i dont know how these happened. O ring was flattened and there was molly leak present.
I am thinking to sand/polish it. i hope i dont change the diameter too much. I dont want the o ring to be out of diameter.
Part is expensive so I dont whant to pay 180$.
What do you guys think about this thing?
 
Re: ST1300 Rear Flange Bearing Replacement

Sorry, let me try to explain with my broken English,

http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/oem-parts/HONDA/2004/ST1300/REAR-WHEEL

On this site, the part 7 goes to the rear wheel. Part 7 inner cup goes to rear wheel and rear wheel has a grove where the o ring (part 22) goes on. That o ring is going inside the part 7 which is the flange inner cup, which i provided in the pictures. Ooooo maaan, even i am confused now...
 
Thanks Badger... I'm familiar with all the parts shown in the fiche, but the pictures you posted do not show part #7 (unless you disassembled it further than is common). Did you remove the 4 bolts that hold part #7 together? Were the bolts loose? If they weren't loose, I'm not sure how the 'inside' face of the part in your pictures got any wear on it.
:shrug1:
 
Folks, Tips from Tip. I installed this VXB bearing NA4905UU Needle bearing a month back got over 3000miles it gone bad on me, cheap $9.95 bearing didn't lest long for me. Will try CBR bearing next....
 
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Thx Tip. I thought as much, but wanted to ask before assuming so. A needle Bering typically is good for higher loading, but has risk of overheating or more quickly wearing than a ball bearing. Needles can perform, but need to be manuf to higher stds than ball bearings (IMO, for this application).
 
Re: ST1300 Rear Flange Bearing Replacement

Here's how I did it with a tyre bead breaker,a socket & extender, some wood offcuts and my trusty B&D Workmate

I have posted this on another Flange drive thread, but most people will come here first, I think.

 
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