Article [13] ST1300 - Rear suspension / Resetting the pre-load adjustor [Video]

No application specific requirements here. Any light oil will work. Most people are using jack oil because it is cheap. I picked mine up from Amazon. I would imagine Harbor Freight would have it. Probably auto parts stores as well. As long as it isn't a thick oil, it will work.
 
Well, 2 hours later, got-er done...

Seat, radio cowl, left upper faring and left saddlebag removed. Banjo adjuster hydraulic cable removed using 14mm and 10mm wrenches. Keeping washers in same order and sides on the banjo when removed.
C534A811-5E03-4254-B7AC-8017D763537B.jpeg

The jack oil found at PepBoys auto parts store. Removed the adjuster without removing the support bracket or the adjuster knob. KISS principle. (Note that the banjo fitting and hydrolic line are positioned up and as high as possible to keep the oil from running out)
33841845-B84C-404F-BDDA-02A775EC9519.jpeg

The remaining amount of oil in the adjuster, and why it could turn the full 36 clicks without any resistance - basically empty. Doubt it was ever checked. Being after this refill, that we only use the first 4 turns or so out of 36, it appears Honda knew the fluid dissipates over time and expected this pressure be checked periodically until there is no more resistance left.
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Proper amount of oil (this was the flush out step before refilling again)
381C054C-AA9F-48BF-8C18-6077478FCEBC.jpeg

Adjuster refilled and preset as prescribed by IGOFAR - Larry’s instructions
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Right side shock to frame adjuster, also set as required
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Now its time to close up the patient and ride em
 
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I did mine recently for the first time by myself and also discovered that there seems to be no reason to remove the knob. Also used fork oil I had sitting around.
 
New to the st1300. Great video! My bike exhibits the same loose feel for the first 7-8 clicks. Will definitely tackle this maintanence procedure.
 
Just serviced the preload adjuster. Big difference! I get resistance after just 1 turn. However, I don't see the need to remove the knob. Unless in my case, you like looking for that 4mm ball bearing. Seems PO used some kind of glue, loctite or other adhesive on the screw that holds the knob on. Then also put a small dab onto the knob where it sits on the hex nut. Heck of a time getting those apart, and in the process, lost the ball bearing. In hindsight, I should have just left the knob on, flushed out the plunger, refilled and reassembled. :thumb:
 
Makes a big difference. After reading/watching others do this, I came to the conclusion the knob could stay on. Only takes about 1/2 hour if you take your time and are prepared with the fluid, etc.
 
Total newbie here. First post. For you other newbies out there...don't forget to push down the "plunger" inside the adjuster after draining the old oil. Couldn't figure out why I wasn't getting any resistance after filling (using hardly any oil...should have been my first clue) and reassembling the adjuster.
 
Chief Mota said:
Total newbie here. First post. For you other newbies out there...don't forget to push down the "plunger" inside the adjuster after draining the old oil. Couldn't figure out why I wasn't getting any resistance after filling (using hardly any oil...should have been my first clue) and reassembling the adjuster.
Click to expand...
Excellent point, thanks for reminding all of us about that.

Welcome to the forum!

Michael
 
Chief Mota said:
Total newbie here. First post. For you other newbies out there...don't forget to push down the "plunger" inside the adjuster after draining the old oil. Couldn't figure out why I wasn't getting any resistance after filling (using hardly any oil...should have been my first clue) and reassembling the adjuster.
Click to expand...
Welcome to the forum and thanks for the 'heads up'.
 
Awesome post, I just bought a preowned 07 model and performed the top off or service..Bought some fork oil from my local bike shop and topped it off as per the instructions. Thank you very much for posting this vid and bringing up a solution to a problem that I had no idea how to correct..
 
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Completed this service last week. Night and day difference in the way the bike rides now. Feels like my VFR with setting being at higher than normal. Suspension was too plush before this. Also seems like I am the first owner to have performed this service on the bike since new, its a 2005. Barely any oil came out of the cylinder and when I pushed inside, the thing that pushes the oil traveled a long way inside. I'm glad to have performed this. Will do this every year now it being such an easy service to perform.
 
cdnemsguy said:
Thanks for the video, and to answer your question, no it is not, just have it turned out all the way. Its a 6 minute job if you have done this before, 12 if you haven't. (We timed it while at NEWSTOC II, and under beer) I do appreciate the videos and the knowledge Jason. There are many less steps to this job than you have shown, but still a good job and hope you keep them coming. Another thing, if you haven't recharged the preload oil on your bike, I can say it really needs to be done regardless of the mileage.
Click to expand...
Can you post your video as well.
 
Thanks for the instructions and comments. Performed this today for the first time. Once again, my bike is better because of this forum. Thanks everyone!
 
AV8R said:
Well, 2 hours later, got-er done...

Seat, radio cowl, left upper faring and left saddlebag removed. Banjo adjuster hydraulic cable removed using 14mm and 10mm wrenches. Keeping washers in same order and sides on the banjo when removed.
233651

The jack oil found at PepBoys auto parts store. Removed the adjuster without removing the support bracket or the adjuster knob. KISS principle. (Note that the banjo fitting and hydrolic line are positioned up and as high as possible to keep the oil from running out)
233652

The remaining amount of oil in the adjuster, and why it could turn the full 36 clicks without any resistance - basically empty. Doubt it was ever checked. Being after this refill, that we only use the first 4 turns or so out of 36, it appears Honda knew the fluid dissipates over time and expected this pressure be checked periodically until there is no more resistance
233655
Click to expand...
Still not clear how you got the knob off. What is the radio cowl and the banjo adjuster hydraulic cable. Also is this the right amount of oil in this photo above. Thanks.
 
Just FYI, you don't need to remove the knob, just remove the bolt holding the bracket to the frame. Then do the service as shown. Takes less than 30 min. What a difference! (along with a Super Brace fork brace addition!)
 
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