ST1300 Rear Tire Choice for Longevity Over Traction & Front End Wandering

The stock ST1300 spring rate is about right for a rider of less than 180 lbs.

Any two up couple cannot add enough preload to set sag within the commonly accepted range of 25 to 33% of suspension travel and this even when the preload mechanism is working with 100% of it's available travel.

I encourage owners to measure sag at least once to set a benchmark for their weight and riding configurations.
 
I completely agree with his. It's free to experiment. You can start with a large, coarse adjustment to feel the effects, and then make finer adjustments: once you know what effects to look for:

The first rides on the ST 1300 can feel twitchy if the rear pre-load is set too high. It steepens then angle of the front forks with the road, which quickens the steering.

Important to increase the damping to suit the heavier load. Without that, the bike will wallow in the fast bends.
 
I completely agree with his. It's free to experiment. You can start with a large, coarse adjustment to feel the effects, and then make finer adjustments: once you know what effects to look for:
I completely agree that rear sag adjustment affects steering geometry and that raising the rear quickens the steering.

What is exasperating to me is the thought that you can load 300+ lbs on the ST1300's stock 900 lb spring and expect to set the rear high enough to make the front end twitchy, or solve the twitchy by lowering the rear. With 22 stone in the seat the best you can do is hope to get the shock off the bump stop whilst sitting in the car park.
 
Someone else suggested matched tires so I will go that way eventually but I have two other new rears I have to go through first.
I submit that the FIRST thing you should do is put a MATCHING set of new tires on the bike - and go from there.
Personally, I love the Bridgestone T31 GTs, but whatever you go with - don't mix!
Good luck....
 
The weave may be due to the forks being out of alignment. My bike is steady as a rock until you get behind a big truck at highway speeds, then it likes to do the Goldwing Dance! As for tires, everyone has their opinion, so I will express mine! I am currently running Dunlop Road smarts, I have a near new RS3 on the front and the rear is RS2 with just over 13000 miles on it and it will not be due to be changed out for several more thousand miles as it still has a good amount of tread left. When I do change it, I will install a Road smart 3.
 
Obviously matching is preferred, but I've had mismatched front and rears a couple times now with no significant issues.

I run a lot of crappy abrasive roads and get 7k-8k out of a PR4 rear, more out of the front. The PR4's are pretty much out of stock now so time to find something else. Currently running an Angel GT2. So far so good.

Aside from tires you might also want to rule out mechanical issues to explain your wobbles. Notchy steering head bearings? Swing arm bearings? Wheel bearings? Also as alluded to above, it wouldn't hurt to verify that the forks are properly aligned so they aren't fighting each other. With the front wheel removed you should be able to slide the front axle though the forks easily. If not, then one or the other needs to be adjusted up or down.
 
What is exasperating to me is the thought that you can load 300+ lbs on the ST1300's stock 900 lb spring and expect to set the rear high enough to make the front end twitchy, or solve the twitchy by lowering the rear. With 22 stone in the seat the best you can do is hope to get the shock off the bump stop whilst sitting in the car park.

I'm just talking from my own experience, @dduelin.

When we tour - which is for most of our riding - the bike is up to the Honda specified weight limit. It used to be more, but I worked hard to reduce my own personal load by 3.5 stone. The only time the bike handled badly was when a rear BT023 wore oddly - cupped on the sides.

I have never felt that the rear suspension was inadequate, although I have noticed how low other ST1300s can sit when their machine is more heavily loaded than ours.
But my riding style may have something to do with that. I ride well within my own limits, and my limits are much less than the capabilities of the bike.

When I got my first brand new ST1300, having previously had 2 1100s, I loved it. But after our first fully loaded tour, I took a short ride by myself and the bike felt very twitchy to me. I mean scary twitchy.
It had me puzzled, but a couple of days later I remembered that I hadn't taken off the pre-load from our tour, and when I did, it felt perfectly fine again.

This happened on a couple of other occasions - easily done, you get home, unload the bike and focus on stuff other than riding. The next solo ride it feels twitchy again, but now I knew what it was and just stopped to take off some preload. Perfect again.

I don't know much about the theoretical aspects of bike handling, or that a slight tweak here should produce a certain effect there. But even if I was aware of that stuff, I do know that it would not have helped in the slightest.

Why ? The reason is not to be argumentative. I don't disagree with you. You know far more about it than me, I know that. But in fact, it wasn't the bike that was twitchy. It was me. I simply wasn't used to a bike with quicker steering. So to me it felt twitchy. I know it was me and not the bike because after a while 'the bike' stopped doing it. And when I bought my 2nd brand new ST1300, that never felt twitchy either no matter what the preload setting.

So when I noted that @staggart had plenty of biking experience but was unused to the St1300, I thought it worth mentioning that if the rear preload is set too high, the first rides on an ST1300 can feel twitchy.
 
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I'll spell it out so others won't have to click : )

Shinko 009 Raven Radial Rear.

Most folks in here who run Shinkos opt for the
Shinko 011 Raven Radial Rear, which is a Joint-Less Steel Belted tire ... seems to be the better choice.

Then there's the Shinko 016 2X, which is a dual compound tire (30%-40%-30%), which would be better for those riding twisty roads.

Not sure how any of these tires compare to a tire that is a "GT-spec" option, let's say, the T31 GT, the GT designed for "heavier bikes"
 
So when I noted that @staggart had plenty of biking experience but was unused to the St1300, I thought it worth mentioning that if the rear preload is set too high, the first rides on an ST1300 can feel twitchy.
Thanks for the input. I'm well on my way to getting the pre-load correctly serviced (it's currently 12 clicks until I feel resistance) and rebound setup as well as front axle alignment as per-@Igofar. Also, my SMC is buggered up so that too is on order to be replaced soon. And, @jfheath @Igofar suggested I find your articles on brake bleeding, etc. since that will be up for me too. In fact, I just searched for ST1300 SMC and your article was the first to come up! How nice is that!

Thanks everyone for the kind and warm welcome to this forum. I belong to a lot of other forums and this one is the most disciplined and informative of any. I assume it's because of the ST1300 rider's maturity.
 
Sounds like you are well on the way to getting sorted out.
The link to my article that you posted is just a series of photos of how the SMCs go wrong. I suspect that the article that Larry was referring to was this one - which helps to describe what you are actually doing, rather than just blindly following a sequence.


And a nice little animation that I did of what happens when the front axle is inserted properly. (But if Larry has said something different, take Larry's advice !)

 
of what happens when the front axle is inserted properly

I've read where folks have "swapped" the spacers - easy solution: mark one spacer as the L(eft) or R(ight), take your pick ... or use a small container to hold one, marking it appropriately.
 
I'll spell it out so others won't have to click : )

Shinko 009 Raven Radial Rear.

Most folks in here who run Shinkos opt for the
Shinko 011 Raven Radial Rear, which is a Joint-Less Steel Belted tire ... seems to be the better choice.

Then there's the Shinko 016 2X, which is a dual compound tire (30%-40%-30%), which would be better for those riding twisty roads.

Not sure how any of these tires compare to a tire that is a "GT-spec" option, let's say, the T31 GT, the GT designed for "heavier bikes"
This Shinko came from Yokohama tire. they bought it from Yokohama and Yokohama no longer make motorcycle tire.
 
:usflag1::usflag1:Hello Staggert! I finally get to share my similar experience with someone. I bought my 06 in 2016. Never an issue with high speed wobble. I ran Michelins. Then early 2019 I decide to install a Conti Motion on the rear, while the front Michelin still had good tread. After about 3k miles on Conti.........it all began. Wobble hell, and I jumped thru all the hoops you seem to be doing. Even rebuilt my front forks. Long story short, I installed new Shinko 011's and problem solved. Sometimes I ride very fast with panniers and No Wobble ever anymore. I only bought the Conti Motion assuming that a front tire was available. It wasn't. No mixing tire types for me again. I really love this bike and its a daily blessing for me. The best to you as you enjoy yours...... Rick
 
:usflag1::usflag1:Hello Staggert! I finally get to share my similar experience with someone. I bought my 06 in 2016. Never an issue with high speed wobble. I ran Michelins. Then early 2019 I decide to install a Conti Motion on the rear, while the front Michelin still had good tread. After about 3k miles on Conti.........it all began. Wobble hell, and I jumped thru all the hoops you seem to be doing. Even rebuilt my front forks. Long story short, I installed new Shinko 011's and problem solved. Sometimes I ride very fast with panniers and No Wobble ever anymore. I only bought the Conti Motion assuming that a front tire was available. It wasn't. No mixing tire types for me again. I really love this bike and its a daily blessing for me. The best to you as you enjoy yours...... Rick
so for the first 300 miles you had no problems. Suddenly a wobble began. You can't condemn mixing tires, heck they were great for 3000 miles. Sound to me that something happened to one of the tires, a ply separation perhaps. I have wore out mismatched tires with no problem and others have also. Some harleys come from the factory with a radial tire on front and a bias ply on the rear. So tires can be mismatched. Just a foot note I do not use the recommended sizes. :thumb:
 
If the forks haven't been rebuilt yet, it is probably time. I just did mine at 18K because on seal was starting to leak slightly. It made a world of difference. The parts are pretty inexpensive and it is an easy DIY project.
 
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