ST1300-Rear Wheel Cush Damper rubber

HelloEveryone

Joined
Oct 20, 2025
Messages
70
Age
56
Location
Singapore
Bike
ST1300
Honda calls this
RUBBER, CUSHION” or “DAMPER, cush

Anyone changed this before or it’s pretty much bulletproof too 😀?

What’s its for :
  • Absorbs drivetrain shock during gear changes
  • Reduces clunking, lash, and stress on:
    • Final drive
    • Gearbox
    • Driveshaft
    • Rear hub
 
It is not bulletproof. The rubber shrinks. How older the more play on the rubbers. I changed them last year. At 130.000km. And my Pan is from 2006.
 
I installed a set of new cushions at 50,000 miles but the old ones were not loose, in fact they had to be carefully pried out of the hub. After 50,000 miles I had two sets of wheels but only one set of rubber cushions for my 1300 so each tire change I swapped out the cush drive and they were always somewhat difficult to remove for the next 130,000 miles - I sold the bike at 180,000. If they shrank or hardened in use it was not noticeable.
 
I changed my cushions out around 40,000 and while the hub was a little loose coming out, it was considerably harder to insert with the new rubbers. There was some rubber "dust" in the cavity, indicating that there was some wear to the original rubbers. Cant really say that I noticed much difference in slop or driveline lash... MAYBE a bit. If you are experiencing issues with slop or lash in the driveline, I would change them, as they are not very expensive and rubber does degrade/harden over time.
 
HelloEveryone said:
Honda calls this
RUBBER, CUSHION” or “DAMPER, cush

Anyone changed this before or it’s pretty much bulletproof too 😀?

What’s its for :
  • Absorbs drivetrain shock during gear changes
  • Reduces clunking, lash, and stress on:
    • Final drive
    • Gearbox
    • Driveshaft
    • Rear hub
Click to expand...
if they fall out you need to change them, usually have to be installed with a rubber mallet .
 
Ok thanks and knowing you have changed them at some point deserves observation or change in due time.

Yes they are not expensive but often missed out checking during wheel or bearing change
 
I’ve replaced these bearings, as well as the other 2 a few times now (#19, 20,21); I’m at 130k miles. Since you’re that far in I’d strongly suggest you check them, easy to do, rotate them with your fingers, they should roll smoothly, slight resistance, no sound.
 
In terms of preemptive parts or tools purchasing? It really depends on what you have already. I remember replacing my bearings with nothing more than the tools I had on hand, but I have a pretty complete selection of mechanic's tools. You can drive the bearings out with a screw driver, but a bearing puller will make the job easier and be less subject to damaging the wheel. It is not necessary, it just makes the job easier. Same for driving in the bearings - you don't want to be applying pressure (hammering) on the inner race. Many of us, in lieu of sets of bearing drivers will use a piece of pipe or more commonly, an appropriately sized socket (ratchet stays in the toolbox).

Only thing I can think of that is mandatory is the proper moly paste.
 
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