ST1300 Throttle

The ST should not have a heavy throttle.

1. Check the bar end weight is not rubbing on the end of the rubber grip; trim the grip or add a spacer washer if you need to create clearance.
2. Remove the throttle tube and clean and lube the handlebar before reassembly. Remove the bar end weight, undo the clamping screws on the throttle housing, slacken the cables at the adjuster and then slip the throttle tube off the bar. Note there is a locating peg in the lower switch pod assembly that engages with a drilled hole in underside of the handlebar. Clean the handlebar/inside of the tube of any surface rust/dirt, apply a lithium grease and reassemble.
3. Consider lubing the cables if you must, but I believe they have a teflon inner sleeve so this probably won't be needed.
 
Someone makes a different throttle cam that allows more subtle changes in applying the throttle. This differnt cam profile might make twisting the throttle easier - I don't know. Somone wil chime in w/ the name of this.

There are also a number of hand rests - Cramp Buster is one name that comes to mind. This is a piece of plastic that wraps about 2/3 of the way around the grip and then sticks out for a palm rest. It might help for partial throttle openings.

Maybe wrist exercises to strengthen your wrist muscles?
 
John G said:
I just recently purchased a 2008 ST1300. I was wondering if there is a way to reduce the effort to turn the throttle
Click to expand...
I have a G2 Throttle Tamer on my ST and love it. But it may not be the answer you're looking for.

The ST's throttle does have a good "return" but it's not what I'd call a noticeable effort to open. I found myself opening it too much too often till I got used to it subtly ramping up speed. With the engine off and the ST at WOT release the grip. Does the throttle snap closed with authority? Or is it even slightly slow and "soft". If it is then there is probably some drag that needs to be found and addressed.

Along the lines @TerryS I'd also check the routing of the cables. With the bike on the center stand turn the bars lock to lock and see if it affects engine speed because of any strain on the throttle cables. Also check that both cables aren't too tight as in the opening cable binding with the closing cable. Disassemble the grip/ltube from the bars and check for biniding as Terry said. I wouldn't lube the cables though.

The return spring might be enough to feel heavy after a bit of riding. If that's the case a Cramp Buster on the throttle grip reduces the effort by the slight leverage of your hand resting on the Buster and doe lighten the effort somewhat. You can maintain throttle opening without even gripping the throttle giving your hand a chance to relax. Due care and caution apply.

The G2 does none of this. It won't lighten the throttle. At least not to any degree one might notice. What it does is "smooth" the low end of opening the throttle. It basically removes the sudden acceleration "lurch" of opening the throttle. This gives it some gradation instead of what I saw/see as On'Off at the very low end of opening due to the effect of the fuel injection. Past opening the G2 has no effect.

To be honest most riders learn to mitigate that and never notice the jerkiness at opening. Getting that control saves them time and money. Me I didn't want to study for that learning curve. I got a G2 and never looked back. One member "made" his equivalent by filing the the ramp of the factory tube to lesson its angle to be less "aggressive" or steep. This is what the G2 does. That allows for a more granular throttle opening. This also requires a bit more turn of the throttle at the bottom end but it's hardly noticeable.

So the G2 is brilliant at what it does. But if you got that under control, then the G2 won't help.
 
I used an older pair of too-smooth gloves on a longer ride and I did noticer my hand getting tired because I had to grip the throttle firmly to keep from slipping. With slightly grippier glovers it's a non-issue.

I did find the original handgrips a little less grippy than I like, but I changed them.
 
Two thoughts...
1. After owning / riding multiple bikes for 50yrs+ the 1300 throttle is not what I would call "stiff" or "hard", my 2008 has been smooth and glitch free all is life.
2. Thought of the G2 as well, but I've seen it used more with high-hp bikes with an abrupt launch or narrow clutch engagement point.
As mentioned (and yes, I know everyone is different), the ST1300 throttle is not innately hard, resistant, or difficult.
Good tips above, re: cable routing, etc.
As a data point, what bike / throttle are you most recently "accustomed to" or familiar and comfortable with?
 
Crampbusters work great for me. Can't ride much without them.

I tried O-rings as friction between the throttle and lightswitch housing, but the gap is too big. This method worked great on the K75 and K100 bikes, but not on the ST...

I also have the G2 which helps with the jerkyness between idle and positive throttle a little bit. But it doesn't help against tired wrists over long distance.
 
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