ST1300 Top End Engine Rebuild

Joined
May 19, 2018
Messages
1,120
Location
Southern California
Bike
2005 ST1300 PA
How expensive is it to have a bike shop or Honda Service Center do it?

Getting a replacement bike has to be much more expensive, so I when its time; who has done this before?
 
I don't think I have ever heard of anyone wear-out a top end on a ST1300 or a ST1100 for that matter. How many miles do you have on it? I would venture a guess that with decent maintenance 250K plus miles or more. It would probably be a whole lot cheaper just to buy an engine out of a lower miles wrecked bike and replace it than do a top end.
 
I've rebuilt a couple of car engines, I'm sure the ST would follow the same general principal (easy enough with the tools & time, depending on the reason for rebuild).

Can't comment on the cost to swap/rebuild at a shop really, though I've swapped an SV650 motor, and that was basically a two day affair (teaching the owner as I was going). I'd factor for 4 hours labour + parts for a swap, more for a rebuild (rebuild is infinitely easier with the motor on a bench...).

Round these parts, work like that is cheaper if you source the new engine yourself too...
 
How expensive is it to have a bike shop or Honda Service Center do it?

Getting a replacement bike has to be much more expensive, so I when its time; who has done this before?
Let us know when you wear yours out and overhaul it. You'll be the first that I can find. I can't remember anyone ever posting about a worn out 1300. Several have been damaged by dropping stuff down the intake. A site search proves this belief.

https://www.google.com/search?q=eng...rome..69i57.1431j0j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

One 1300 engine over 350,000, another over 300,000. Several over 250,000 including mine. LOTS of 1300's over 200,000 and lots more 1100's over 200,000.

Site member Thane has 500,000 KMs on his 1100. That's 310,000 miles.

I know a guy who has over 600,000 miles on a Honda Valkyrie with NO overhaul or even any internal work. These Honda's are made to last it seems.
 
I rebuilt both cylinder heads, new guides, valves & seats refaced, new seals and one new exhaust valve on my ST1100. This was due to a burnt exhaust valve so I decided to do both heads. Pulling the heads myself and having a local machine shop do the work I seem to remember paying around $600-$650 all told. I replaced all the coolant hoses and the timing belt while I was at it too.


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I rebuilt both cylinder heads, new guides, valves & seats refaced, new seals and one new exhaust valve on my ST1100. This was due to a burnt exhaust valve so I decided to do both heads. Pulling the heads myself and having a local machine shop do the work I seem to remember paying around $600-$650 all told. I replaced all the coolant hoses and the timing belt while I was at it too.

I'm curious Jeff, was it due a tight valve? Were you able to measure it before the rebuild? Symptoms, i.e. low compression?
 
I'm curious Jeff, was it due a tight valve? Were you able to measure it before the rebuild? Symptoms, i.e. low compression?

Valve clearance was was in spec before I disassembled the engine. No idea why it burned. During diagnosis, compression was found to be zero on cylinder #4! The bike was down on power and running roughly with a loud "chuffing" noise. After seeing no compression on cylinder #4 I connected an air hose to the spark plug hole with that cylinder at TDC and listened at the oil filler port, the intake and the exhaust pipe. I could clearly hear the air leaking into the exhaust system. I knew there was an issue with the exhaust valve before disassembly. There turned out to be about 1/4 of the valve burnt away.
 
The what if question is because I like the condition and configuration of my bike. I’d rather fix or replace the engine than the whole bike if/when the engine needs serious work. Heck, if a reasonable King’s ransom will effectively reset the engine’s life clock, why not? But back to the original question, what data is out there on this?

For cop bikes, they are usually left running a lot - almost all day long - every day, so odometer miles isn’t an accurate accounting of use. When I was in the hunt for an STP, motor officers warned me away from mileage over 100K, those that knocked (possible top end work), leaked, smoked, weak alternator, didn’t ride and brake smooth, and of course damage and missing parts.

And yes, I’ve heard the great stories of the ST’s longevity which is why buying one over 50k miles was viable, something I’d never do with a cager. I’ve seen these engines for sale (assuming you can trust the stated mileage and condition are valid) which got me thinking as if a rebuild or replacement is a better path than buying another bike and starting all over with its issues and modding it.

Real experience like Bertrand’s is the kind of feedback I was hoping for. I suspected it would be in that ballpark, maybe over $1k if done at a Service Center. The Fleabay engines compatible for my bike are in the $500-800 range, which is about the same cost as the rebuild, plus you have to factor in shipping and the swap labor (and assuming the used engine is good and don’t have to do it all over again). Not being someone with the time and place or skills to replace an engine, I’m thinking the rebuild is the way to go.
 
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... and if it did, cheaper to find a wrecked bike and just pull/replace the motor.
Like others have replied, it would be cheaper to source a used ST engine from a wrecked motorcycle.
I beg to differ. Swapping a motor is a big job - reread that recent post in which someone described all the work and new parts that went into the job. If you figure your time as worth anything at all, I think it would be cheaper in the long run to just buy another used bike. (Unless of course you have a winter layup looming and really enjoy jumping into a project like this....)

The way prices of used ST's are going, someone might pay you to take it off their hands.
 
what I have been told is that it's a flame thrower effect that causes the valve to burn up. the exhaust valve sticks a bit. Combustion happens and some of the hot gasses leak by the valve. The valve does not have time to dissipate the heat. At a high rpm the heat turns into a "flame thrower". Excessive carbon can insulate the valve or cause it to stick, weak valve springs or valves too tight. That's not including cooling system conditions which can add contribute to the dilemma.:confused1:
 
They’re good for like one race, yes?

As a data point, a STP in good Nick is significantly more than an equivalent condition non-STP bike. Then there’s a lot of modding (cost and labor) into returning a bike to a safe traffic duty state. So just finding another bike is a big task. Trust me, been there doing that, own the T-shirt. Good thing while my mechanical skills are meager, my electrical ones are experienced.
:)
 
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I think you've way under-estimated the cost of doing a top end job on an ST. The labor alone would be in excess of $2K in my opinion. That about twenty hours give or take. Pulling down an ST1300 top end is almost the same as swapping out an engine and could be more. By the time you strip everything down, pull the pistons and rods, replace rod bearings, rings and/ or pistons you have basically taken everything off you would need to do an engine swap plus. Parts have got to cost over $1500.00. That is if you were talking about doing a complete top end and not just the heads/ valves. I can easily see this easily running $3.500.00 to $4,000.00 maybe more. After all this you would still have a high miles crank and main bearings. I don't think buying a used ST1300 engine is a huge risk as these bikes are basically bullet-proof. I am starting to see a few used ST1300's out there for around $5,500.00 with relatively low miles as well. I would go that route if it were me.
 
I think you've way under-estimated the cost of doing a top end job on an ST.
.... I am starting to see a few used ST1300's out there for around $5,500.00 with relatively low miles as well. I would go that route if it were me.

True on both accounts!

The majority of the wrecked ST1300s out there are totaled due to the fact they are too expensive to replace the tupperware on. So, if you're so inclined to "Rebuild"; there are MANY WRECKED ST1300s out there with excellent drive trains! Find one that is low mileage, strip off the broken and bent pieces & parts, replace all hoses and fluids, take your good parts and put on the wrecked bike and now you have a good low mileage bike!

That would be a LOT cheaper than trying to rebuild the top end, or replace the engine. And Oh, it might have a Salvage Title! BIG DEAL, if you are planning on riding it, WHO CARES!
 
Real experience like Bertrand’s is the kind of feedback I was hoping for. I suspected it would be in that ballpark, maybe over $1k if done at a Service Center.
Jeff's feedback is only relevant if you do all the labor yourself. As bdalameda said, you're looking at over $2k just for the basic labor for dis-assembly and re-assembly of the engine. That doesn't include the machine shop work on the two heads, and new head gaskets, which is what Jeff was describing in his $600 estimate. The only way engine repair can be financially viable in soCal is if you do your own labor.
 
Valve clearance was was in spec before I disassembled the engine. No idea why it burned. During diagnosis, compression was found to be zero on cylinder #4!
I had the same thing happen on a CB900 I owned, no explanation at all for the burnt valve(s).
 
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