Stahlbus brake bleeder valves

Joined
Jul 3, 2023
Messages
28
Age
67
Location
Greensboro NC
http://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/bleeding-system/index.php
Has anyone had any experience with these products? The brake bleed valves seem to be just the thing for ease of bleeding the brake system (clutch too) on the ST 1300. The oil change valve for the drain plug works in a similar fashion and would be helpful too. I’m very tempted to invest in both of these products. Would like the opinion of the collective here, especially you guys who are wrenching regularly- Igofar, what say you 🤔
 
No experience with the bleeder valves, but at $35 a pop, they are way too expensive for my blood. I did install speed bleeders on my VStrom (spleedbleeder.com) and they worked fine. The original bleeders worked fine on the 'Strom but I bought the speed bleeders because of their hype. I did not find them $8 superior to the oem devices. As a matter of fact, regular old OEM bleeders worked for me on my Guzzis, Triumph, ST1300, and all of the cars I've owned. What is your problem with the oem bleed nipples? Identify the problem first, then search for solutions.

Larry has been an advocate for motion pro's speed bleeder that you use on each nipple on the bike. Buy it once and use it everywhere.

I've used Fumoto's oil drain valve on several of my cars and the VStrom. IMHO, the counter arguments that these are prone to being broken off or will leak are specious. For my VStrom, the oil drain plug is 'protected' by the bash plate and removing that every time to drain oil is a real pita. If you don't remove the plate, things get majorly messy, with the old oil coating the top side of the bash plate and then draining away off the sides. The Fumoto valve I bought had a plastic elbow that self destructed from the engine heat. After that I just used a vinyl hose that fits over the Fumoto's nipple. The Fumoto is a convenience, it is not a necessity. If it saved me one dropping of the drain plug and having oil spill on the floor it would be worth while, but that is my opine only. I will continue to buy these valves as long as I drive infernal combusting engines. Last I checked, the Fumoto cost in the 20 - $25 range.
 
Speedbleeder hype? Dunno about that, but they work...
Btw, the current white color sealant they are using is crap, brake fluid eats it. I clean it off and use permatex hardening type let it set overnight.
 
No experience with the bleeder valves, but at $35 a pop, they are way too expensive for my blood. I did install speed bleeders on my VStrom (spleedbleeder.com) and they worked fine. The original bleeders worked fine on the 'Strom but I bought the speed bleeders because of their hype. I did not find them $8 superior to the oem devices. As a matter of fact, regular old OEM bleeders worked for me on my Guzzis, Triumph, ST1300, and all of the cars I've owned. What is your problem with the oem bleed nipples? Identify the problem first, then search for solutions.

Larry has been an advocate for motion pro's speed bleeder that you use on each nipple on the bike. Buy it once and use it everywhere.

I've used Fumoto's oil drain valve on several of my cars and the VStrom. IMHO, the counter arguments that these are prone to being broken off or will leak are specious. For my VStrom, the oil drain plug is 'protected' by the bash plate and removing that every time to drain oil is a real pita. If you don't remove the plate, things get majorly messy, with the old oil coating the top side of the bash plate and then draining away off the sides. The Fumoto valve I bought had a plastic elbow that self destructed from the engine heat. After that I just used a vinyl hose that fits over the Fumoto's nipple. The Fumoto is a convenience, it is not a necessity. If it saved me one dropping of the drain plug and having oil spill on the floor it would be worth while, but that is my opine only. I will continue to buy these valves as long as I drive infernal combusting engines. Last I checked, the Fumoto cost in the 20 - $25 range.
The motion pro was not designed to be a “speed bleeder” but rather a hydraulic bleeder (check valve).
You purchase one (1) tool, and it can be used on all the stock bleeders etc.
Speed bleeders have had a long learning curve over the years, thread sealant issues, internal metal issues where the spring corroded against the bearing etc.
Your instructed to replace the sealant often when means complete removal of the bleeder which may cause thread damage over time etc.
And, you have to purchase (7) of them, and they usually go away when you sell the bike.
I like simple stuff with few failure points.
As far as the OP questions about the one mentioned, (my opinion) GIMMICK!
Failure points ( O-rings) and thread sealants just like a re-invented speed bleeder with all the issues they have.
A solution for a problem that didn’t exist.
 
🤔
http://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/bleeding-system/index.php
Has anyone had any experience with these products? The brake bleed valves seem to be just the thing for ease of bleeding the brake system (clutch too) on the ST 1300. The oil change valve for the drain plug works in a similar fashion and would be helpful too. I’m very tempted to invest in both of these products. Would like the opinion of the collective here, especially you guys who are wrenching regularly- Igofar, what say you 🤔
To answer your question, jeez save your money, those a just overzealous speedbleeders. Get those instead if you want or get the ProMotion
Bleeder Valve. Either helps the brake bleeding task. My experience is there is no "one size fits all" in doing a bleed job.
 
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Billy, judging by the responses so far, it's pretty clear that speculation/non-experiential opinions will not give you the answer you seek, lol. Disclosure: I've been using the Stahlbus products for about about a decade or so, starting with the oil drain plugs and migrating to the bleeders before they were available in the US. I liked them so much and used them in so many applications (street and track - often on braking systems that cost as much as a good used ST) that I was asked by Stahlbus USA to help when they first opened here. I ended up helping them sell more than a few units. I've used them on both Japanese and Italian bikes (different thread pitches) and also have experience with their quick disconnect brake fittings for performance applications. No disrespect to the "experts" here, but your speculation could use some work, lol.

That said, they are the best bleeder systems I've ever used. Speedbleeders suck by comparison, especially if you use them more than a couple of times without reapplying a thread sealant. It's not necessary on a Stahlbus bleeder because the "seat" remains on the caliper/master cylinder and the bleeder valve is turned relative to that seat. Workmanship/engineering/fit/finish/function is outstanding. While they are a bit spendy, I recommend them to anyone who doesn't like to compromise on quality or to anyone who bleeds their brakes often -- caliper/MC thread wear is virtually eliminated. An Austrian (now Indian) OEM has a specific color (cap) exclusive for Stahlbus in their performance catalog. And as I understand it, the founder/engineer came from the performance automotive industry. Their oil drain valves are equally impressive -- a bit slower draining due to a smaller orifice, however, zero oil spilled and no longer a need to replace the drain plug washer. You can guide the drain hose into a just about anything, if desired, resulting in zero spillage. I even have them on my cars.
 
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The motion pro was not designed to be a “speed bleeder” but rather a hydraulic bleeder (check valve).
You purchase one (1) tool, and it can be used on all the stock bleeders etc.
Speed bleeders have had a long learning curve over the years, thread sealant issues, internal metal issues where the spring corroded against the bearing etc.
Your instructed to replace the sealant often when means complete removal of the bleeder which may cause thread damage over time etc.
And, you have to purchase (7) of them, and they usually go away when you sell the bike.
I like simple stuff with few failure points.
As far as the OP questions about the one mentioned, (my opinion) GIMMICK!
Failure points ( O-rings) and thread sealants just like a re-invented speed bleeder with all the issues they have.
A solution for a problem that didn’t exist.
Ok, I’m leaning towards the motion pro. Would like to use it to bleed brakes on the truck too. My next question is what’s better - the inline model or the mini bleeder? ( or one of each for various applications). The only thing I have against the mini is you have to buy separate ones for 8mm and 10mm nipples.
 
Ok, I’m leaning towards the motion pro. Would like to use it to bleed brakes on the truck too. My next question is what’s better - the inline model or the mini bleeder? ( or one of each for various applications). The only thing I have against the mini is you have to buy separate ones for 8mm and 10mm nipples.
The Hydraulic brake bleeder P/N 08-0143.
In my opinion the handle on the mini bleeder is nothing but an irritant that you may not always have room for so it will get in your way. The regular one requires you to use your own wrench, which you already have. It allows you to access the bleeder nipple at any angle you choose and one size fits all.
 
Ok, I’m leaning towards the motion pro. Would like to use it to bleed brakes on the truck too. My next question is what’s better - the inline model or the mini bleeder? ( or one of each for various applications). The only thing I have against the mini is you have to buy separate ones for 8mm and 10mm nipples.
Dunno what you are calling which is which... but get this one....
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0143

It will work on any vehicle that you can connect the bleed tube on, I have used it on my car and bleed the brakes solo.
Its easy to use. When using, make a the line to the bleed valve short around 1 inch. I like to use a rubber(ish) type so it grabs the bleed valve tight.
I have had air get pulled in the line with the vinyl clear line stuff.
Mini spring clamp on the bleed valve is a good idea too.
 
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Ok, I’m leaning towards the motion pro. Would like to use it to bleed brakes on the truck too. My next question is what’s better - the inline model or the mini bleeder? ( or one of each for various applications). The only thing I have against the mini is you have to buy separate ones for 8mm and 10mm nipples.
Besides having two different ones, they have a rubber fitting that goes over the bleeder, gets a memory, and stops working rather quickly.
And, the handle gets in the way while doing tight areas like the PCV bleeder.
The standard one, and a couple feet of clear tubing from the hardware store will work much better and when the end starts getting loose, simply snip off a quarter inch of the tubing with a cigar cutter.
 
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