Starter Relay Location?

K/W Motoman

K/W Motoman

Joined
Aug 1, 2009
Messages
24
Location
Kitchener,Ontario
My new to me 2014 ST has to have the starter relay recall done in the Spring and I would like to know where where it is located.
1. Fuse side?
2. Battery side?
3. Under the seat?
I have added saddlebag crash guards and the fuse side panel will not come off with the crash guard installed.

Thanks in Advance?
 

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From what I have read it applies to multiple model motorcycles and scooters model years 2013 through 2016. As for the ST1300 it only applies to the police model for years 2013, 2014 and 2015.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
From what I have read it applies to multiple model motorcycles and scooters model years 2013 through 2016. As for the ST1300 it only applies to the police model for years 2013, 2014 and 2015.
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When I got my 2014 I sent my dealer the V.I.N. and asked if there were any issues on the computer and he said just the starter relay recall and mine is not a police model. So Gary talk to your dealer and there are numerous mentions on this site and the Internet regarding this issue.
 
Curious- they must have expanded the recall and the paperwork hasn't caught up to the government yet. Both the July 2015 and the revised August 2015 Honda service bulletins that are on-line only list the ST1300PA models as affected. Even more curious is the discrepancy between governments. Transport Canada lists only the ST1300 & ST1300A as affected while the US DOT lists only the ST1300PA. I guess the lesson is to always check with a dealer of the manufacturer in question to be sure.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
Both the July 2015 and the revised August 2015 Honda service bulletins that are on-line only list the ST1300PA models as affected. Even more curious is the discrepancy between governments. Transport Canada lists only the ST1300 & ST1300A as affected while the US DOT lists only the ST1300PA.
Click to expand...

After 2012, the only bikes imported to the U.S. were PAs, but they continued selling later years in Canada. I'm not sure they ever sold the PA in Canada.

Here's a link to NHTSA's recall information: CLICKY.

--Mark
 
K/W Motoman said:
I have added saddlebag crash guards and the fuse side panel will not come off with the crash guard installed.
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I'm very surprised at this. So, in the event of a bad relay or fuse, you need to remove the crash guard? My Bygdawg guards allow the side panel to come off - but yours have an additional strut. You better carry the appropriate wrenches - fuses have been known to blow and relays have failed (true, not often, but they do).

The instructions that came with my guards said not to remove both bolts at the same time or the frame would slip downward. If this happened, someone would have to lift up the rear of the bike while a second person (or third arm) inserted the bolts to the newly aligned holes. If your's attach the same way, removal by the side of the road could be a nontrivial task.
 
SMSW said:
The instructions that came with my guards said not to remove both bolts at the same time or the frame would slip downward. If this happened, someone would have to lift up the rear of the bike while a second person (or third arm) inserted the bolts to the newly aligned holes.
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A little too dramatic for reality. I've pulled both out (same side) simultaneously many times. My bike and others.
I helped an old friend with his bike and the B-D bars definelty make removing the side panels a PITA. On mine I used the Goldwing adapter plates and they just barely block the left side cover, a little dremel work and they no longer present a problem. (Dremel the cover more then the plates.)

Remove all 4 and you might have issues. Remove two on the same side and you can fit the two back in, but might need to tug/lift on the tail a bit to get perfect alignment.
 
T_C said:
.......On mine I used the Goldwing adapter plates and they just barely block the left side cover, a little dremel work and they no longer present a problem. (Dremel the cover more then the plates.)

......
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Another reason that the Goldwing adaptor plates are not needed. Just bolt the GL1800 bar to the step plate. Nothing changes except protection for the saddlebag.
 
T_C said:
A little too dramatic for reality. I've pulled both out (same side) simultaneously many times. My bike and others.
I helped an old friend with his bike and the B-D bars definelty make removing the side panels a PITA. On mine I used the Goldwing adapter plates and they just barely block the left side cover, a little dremel work and they no longer present a problem. (Dremel the cover more then the plates.)

Remove all 4 and you might have issues. Remove two on the same side and you can fit the two back in, but might need to tug/lift on the tail a bit to get perfect alignment.
Click to expand...

Good to know, thanks. I was just quoting what the instructions said and what I read elsewhere. When I mounted mine, I loosened both, and removed one screw at a time to install the guards. No slippage or movement even with both bolts unscrewed and finger loose.

I'm not sure I understand something. You said the B-D (BygDawg) bars make removing the side panels difficult. Exactly what side panels are you referring to? I thought this term was being applied to the tupperware and I've had both sides of the bike stripped down with the bars in place (excepting the tail pieces and rear fender).
 
I once had the BygDawg bars installed on my ST, and I also don't recall having any issues removing the side panels with them in place. I think T_C may have meant to refer to the GW tip-over bars, not the B-D bars.
 
Yes. The crash bars in the pic has an additional strut attaching to the passenger peg location. They are for the cop bikes and are from MC enterprises. I never carry a passenger so I thought a stronger bar would be better. The issue is the recently added plastic portion Honda added to cover the shock adjuster opening. The good news is that when I take the peg bolt out and the top crash bar bolt the loosen the bottom I can rotate the bar so the panel can be removed. A little bothersome but being a Honda I don't expect to having to remove it very often. BUT I will sure I have the correct hex keys to do the job on the road.
 

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