Sticky Brakes

Willsmotorcycle

Willsmotorcycle

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Joined
Oct 26, 2020
Messages
2,030
Location
Makefield Highlands PA
Bike
2016 ST1300P
2025 Miles
000545
This is weird, Changed the rear pads, flushed the fluid, put on a new tire, went out for a ride and could feel it was sluggish coming to a coasting stop. Checked at the gas station on the center stand. Something in the rear is binding, brakes, shaft, fairy dust. I was reading a few threads, haha they all say wait for Larry. @Igofar 31k on the clock, second set on the rear, second brake flush, probably the 4th tire.

Where is a good place to start, or just start dismantling?
 
If they worked fine before your new pads, you might as well start taking things apart again. You will have to do it anyway. Did you follow the procedure according to the Service Manual? Inspect the caliper bracket? Clean and lube the sliding pins? Spacers on the correct side, did you do an SMC test?
 
Will, make sure you can press on the end of each of the pads one at a time and feel it "give" against the pad spring up in the caliper. It is possible to not have the far end of the pad fitted correctly into the caliper and still get the pad retaining pin secured in place but the pad will not be free to slide freely on the retaining pin.
 
Many things can cause drag. But since you just changed pads,,, did you clean and polish the pistons ?? My PO would just allow a shop to crank in the old dirty pistons. And the corruption pushed past the seals made everything stick. On every pad change now,,, I clean and polish the pistons till they gleam,, using Auto-sol, and flat skate laces (photos in other threads). Certainly helped me. Also,,, make sure your smc is good. We have debated a few times how often an smc should be changed out. The jury is still out on that,,,, CAt'
 
Mine having same symptom after rear tire change and new rear pads + brakes flush 2 times. It’s weird noise coming from while starting to slow stop.
 
STraymond said:
Does photo show that the pads are not seated correctly?
Click to expand...
Mellow's edit of green and red marks is great.

This picture is of my NC700X but the Nissan caliper used is similar to those on many Hondas including the ST1300. For a visual check one can look through the wheel at the opposite caliper and see if the protruding tab on the pad is engaged in the receptacle provided in the far end of the caliper. That silver upside down U around the border of the receptacle is the caliper spring and when the other end of the pad is pushed forward the spring provides some "give" or tactile feel that the pad is engaged properly. If it is hard against the caliper and not in place there is no "give" yet the pad retaining pin can still be forced into place but the pads will drag. Legions of Honda owners and techs have made this mistake with Nissan calipers at least once.

IMG_2180.jpg
 
shadowknows977 said:
Guess who has less drag on the rear wheel now that they've fixed the position of the brake pad?:doh1: Thanks!
Click to expand...
It's so easy to do and you can do it wrong and it feels like it was installed correctly, you really have to look at it from different angles to ensure you get it right.
 
I'll add my .02 cents worth here as well.
Like Mellow pointed out, you really need to look at it from different angles to ensure you get it right, and those three angles are, 1. from the right side through the wheel, you can see the foot of the pads are clearly in the front retaining clip etc. 2. From the left side between the muffler, you can see the front foot/clip area as well, and 3. (most importantly) straight from the rear, you absolutely need to verify that the inboard pad backing plate is SQUARE/FLUSH against the caliper housing. Because, if its not, its quite possible that when the pads were lifted/pushed into place, that the edge of the pads are resting ON TOP of the little book end looking tabs of the roof clip, instead of sitting square next to them. These upper clips have enough spring to them, that its possible to push up on the end of the pad to make clearance room for the retaining pin to slide into the hole, but not be seated correctly, as in next to the tabs, but on top of the tabs etc.
Then what happens is the first time or two you touch the brakes, it bends the tabs sideways, tilting the pads, and causing things to bind/rub/drag etc.

P1020411 (1).jpg
 
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