Stock ST1300 Horsepower

I had my stock 2006 ST1300 dyno'd at 94,000 miles due to a intermittent problem. 127.5 HP 84#ft torque. Which is more than the manufactures claims.
 
slo~ride said:
I had my stock 2006 ST1300 dyno'd at 94,000 miles due to a intermittent problem. 127.5 HP 84#ft torque. Which is more than the manufactures claims.
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Like 20 more. Maybe Honda wants that engine back!
 
slo~ride said:
I had my stock 2006 ST1300 dyno'd at 94,000 miles due to a intermittent problem. 127.5 HP 84#ft torque. Which is more than the manufactures claims.
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Well it looks like you have finally broken it in and loosened it up! :D

In reality though, I suspect the dyno is reading off a bit, it is notoriously difficult to compare results on the same bike from different dynomometers. If that measurement was taken at the rear wheel, then crankshaft horsepower would have to be around 135 - 140.
 
Sounds like a dyno at at harley davidson shop :rofl1:
They always tell folks higher numbers to sell more stuff :D
 
alan said:
The stock pipes contain catalytic converters to meet the 2008 California rules. Bike would probably fail a smog test without the stock pipes. So the weight savings will dirty the air a bit.
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Not true. I live in the only place that tests motorcycles on a yearly basis and my ST1300 passes the emissions test with my Staintune exhausts in place. Love the sound, the look, and the reduced weight. Any weight saving that I can make is a plus to me. My ST is a big pig, but I love her.
 
retpd2001 said:
OK, I admit it, I am a dummy. Took a ride today with a buddy on his new Victory, he asked me how much HP the ST had, I couldn't remember. Got home, can't find it in my owners manual, my shop manual, or on the Honda website, not listed in the spec sheet. So I give, what is the answer, and sorry in advance for the dumb question.
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did you smoke him?
 
GryST said:
If the axle bolt have been cut about 2mm off at its head on one side - it would easily move under the exhaust.
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That could be a decent mod. Cut/grind/mill 2.5mm of one side then dress it up to make it all purty. Just rotate the bolt if needed then slide it out and Bob's now relative.
 
GryST said:
I don't know what Honda designers were smoking. If the axle bolt have been cut about 2mm off at its head on one side - it would easily move under the exhaust.
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Or simply carry forward the feature that they had already designed in to the ST1100 muffler where a notch in the muffler allowed for bolt clearance.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
Or simply carry forward the feature that they had already designed in to the ST1100 muffler where a notch in the muffler allowed for bolt clearance.
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I've never removed either muffler on the 2003 or 2008 to remove the rear wheel. I simply remove the two mounting bolts and push up on the muffler, then slide the axle out.
 
caldercay said:
I simply remove the two mounting bolts and push up on the muffler, then slide the axle out.
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Even that would not be required with a design along the lines of the the ST1100 muffler notch.

My take is that needing to remove wheels on the side of the road is something that should be considered in the design in the same way that a spare may need to be installed on a car on the side of the road. Needing to dicker with the mufflers in any way in order to get the axle out is a design oversight at minimum if not a design fault as this is something that might need to be done on the side of the road. Keeping that task to the minimum amount of work and involving the minimum number of parts, and therefore related failures such as broken / stripped bolts, muffler clamps, etc., should have been considered in the design in my view.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
My take is that needing to remove wheels on the side of the road is something that should be considered in the design in the same way that a spare may need to be installed on a car on the side of the road.
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Wow, do you carry a spare wheel on your ST? I wasn't aware Honda offered that option when I purchased my bike. :biggrin:

Michael
 
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