Stripped caliper pin removal.

[sstakes1]

Alas! I've stripped the rear brake caliper pin trying to replace rear pads. But the good news is a Torx 25 bit seems to have some bite. Before attempting removal, I am going to apply some penetrating oil. I've also seen suggestions to apply heat. I want to maximize my chance for success! I am a little nervous about taking a Benz-o-matic to the rear caliper. Are there any other suggestions/recommendations for applying heat? I want to insulate most of the caliper and heat only the head portion that holds the pin? I can think of a water soaked rag? Any suggestions for what items can be used for insulation and fire protection?

In addition, does anyone recommend anti-seize compounds that they have used for this application?

Thanks
Ram

 

[ReSTored]

I had the same issue. My removal process was simple in that I used needle nose vise grip clamped onto the pin from the rear as tight as I could get it. I then gave the handle of the vise grip a tap with a hammer and the pin loosened. I re-positioned the vise grip a few times and repeated. Try this first before using heat or trying the drill out the head of the pin.

Already had a new pin on hand, so replaced and I also replace my worn hex drive as I think it contributed to the head of the pin being stripped out.

 

[Mellow]

Well, I would buy a new pin so who cares what you do with the old one right? I'd take some vise grips and grab the center of the pin between the pads and just turn that... I'd stay away from any fire myself but that's a long story.. lol

 

[W0QNX]

Heat as in flame sounds real bad. I wouldn't do that without the caliper completely off the bike. Fires escalate quickly. With that pin sticking out back so far I'd be all twisting that thing for sure.

 

[jettawreck]

Heat as in flame sounds real bad. I wouldn't do that without the caliper completely off the bike. Fires escalate quickly. With that pin sticking out back so far I'd be all twisting that thing for sure.

Yes, brake fluid burns quite well as do other unplanned materials. Witnessed a pretty good brake fluid fire in high school Auto Mechanics class when some guys were using a torch to "remove" the rear axle from a demo project. Don't know which was worse, the smoke from the fluid or the several fire extinguisher(s) chemical white powder.

 

[sirepair]

Do you have an impact driver such as this?

With a properly sized bit and a good whack or two with a hammer will usually loosen stubborn fasteners. All good toolboxes should have one of these.

I use a tiny dab of high-temp anti-seize on the pins, taking care to npt get it on the pads/rotor.

 

[Whooshka]

Times when I didn't want an open flame I held a hot soldering iron against the head of a bolt for a few minutes and that helped.

 

[sstakes1]

Thanks Pat. No I do not have one of those, but they will be when I leave work this evening. I had misplaced my vice grip pliers. I'll pick one of those up as well and try it first.

 

[SupraSabre]

Remove the three bolts that hold the two caliper halves together. Remove the stop part of the caliper, then remove the brake pads.

At this point you have a few options. One would be to just clean it all up and put the new brake pads on, just watch for the little tabs that hold the pads in place. (If your inside pads is at an angle, you don't have the pad positioned correctly) and go ride.

Or you could shoot some penetrating oil in from the backside and work from it there.

Good luck!

 

[mortenk]

I lubricate the pin every time I have it out - which is quite often due to the life span of a tire etc...and never had any issue removing one

 

[W0QNX]

I lubricate the pin every time I have it out - which is quite often due to the life span of a tire etc...and never had any issue removing one

Why do you remove the brake pad pin to change the tire? No need for that.

 

[jettawreck]

Do you have an impact driver such as this?

With a properly sized bit and a good whack or two with a hammer will usually loosen stubborn fasteners. All good toolboxes should have one of these.

I use a tiny dab of high-temp anti-seize on the pins, taking care to npt get it on the pads/rotor.

Yep, agree most any well stocked toolbox(es) will have one of those impact drivers and have used it countless times, but would never whack on the caliper pin location. Cast aluminum caliper can be somewhat susceptible to breaking/cracking on the tab where the pin threads are located. Take it out with the narrow vise grip and replace the pin with a new one and a dab of NeverSeize.

 

[SMSW]

Any antiseize will be fine. Since this pin is exposed to the elements, I'd look for one that has some resistance to water (some of the brake anti seize compounds advertise this).

 

[W0QNX]

Is it actually possible to lift the caliper off the disc / rotor with unworn pads in place ? I don't know - I assumed not.

Yes it is possible. I'm pretty much the opposite of your methods. I'm more if it isn't broke don't touch it!! HAHA

Those of us with car tires learn quickly if you can leave the tire inside the swingarm the better. So all my brake pad changes in the last 195,000 miles have been with the tire-disc in the normal use position. About half the time I do slide the axle out part way to lift the caliper over the disc and look inside the caliper for issues, clip alignments. Regardless of pad wear the caliper slides on and off. I sometimes hold the pad rear pads apart with a screwdriver blade when they seem to rattle about too much while installing over the disc.

I should also say I've modded my bike so that the axle can be removed without the mufflers being removed. I removed part of the mount on the left pipe so a socket with extension can get to the big jam bolt and the right muffler has been hammer modded to allow the axle to pass under the muffler.

 

[SMSW]

No - neither would I. But I understood that an impact driver worked by providing a turning force at the precise moment that the hammer blow is keeping the head of the driver firmly located against the slot or cross head - to stop the driver camming out of the head. Hex sockets don't need this extra pressure. If the hex socket has rounded off, whacking it isn't going to help.

I'm starting to think differently from this. I always used to grease the threads in the belief that the difficulty I had experienced in removing the pins was due to corrosion. I'm now wondering if greasing the threads resulted the pin being over-tightened. Maybe the additional lubrication caused me to be tightening the pin to (say) 23Nm instead of the 18Nm on my wrench. As a result, the soft metal pin couldn't cope with the extra force required to undo it. (I always thought that the specified 18Nm is quite high for such a small thread anyway).

* I agree w/ your impact driver comment.
* It's always been my understanding that you should be reducing the torque if you lube threads - torque specs are for dry threads; anti-seize is a lubricant.

 

[drtyrrel]

When I bugger up the head of an metric Allen screw I try a SAE Allen or visa versa. If slightly bigger I tap into the head with a hammer.

 

[Catmandu2]

I have had to deal with seized and stripped pins several times. When I got the bike,, 2 of 3 hex's were already stripped out. And I could see that one caliper had been split disassembled to change the pads,, as the dealer could not get the pin out so took that shortcut to getting the bike rolling. For the stripped ones,,, I determined that I had a close fit torx bit that I could drive carefully into the hex. But on all 3,, I also used my hot air gun,, to gently (over about 10 minutes) warm the corner of the caliper,,, around the pins head and seat. The gun is a 15 amp,,, and should be used carefully so as not to endanger the piston seals, or burn the caliper. Worked like a charm,,, and I use this approach all the time now,, rather than risk a another stripped hex. I also use a copper anti-seize compound on reassembly,,, and try to loosen and re-torque the pins annually,, as they seem to get tighter and more stuck over time (with all the heat and cooling of braking). I always install new pins with new pads,,, as they are cheap,, good luck,,, Cat'

ps: couple of other thoughts,,, spray the pin head over night with your favorite penetrating product, to get everything going for you that you can. Loosen any pins and/or fittings before dismounting the caliper. I use an 18" cheater tube over my torx or hex keys, but no hammers or impact drivers (although I have lots of those),,, with just steady constant pressure. Not enough to risk stripping the pin again. Be patient and repetitive,,, and a stuck pin will usually just "pop" loose,,, Cat'

 

[SupraSabre]

... Don't quote or use that figure - it is an illustration and is not reliable.

Dang, now you tell me!

 

[Catmandu2]

What ever ass'y torque you choose, don't forget to recheck you pins and any other bolts that have been disturbed during maintenance,, after an hours riding. This way,,, you will ensure your tightening is being maintained. And also that you did not miss anything,,, like I did once,,, before I started double checking,, Cat'

 

[jmcarruth]

Whenever I have an Allen fastener that is not in the tolerance to my bit/wrench that I am using, even though it is listed as the correct size, I oil the bit or wrench and then dip it into sand. That creates additional grip. Worked many times. Also, a set of left hand drill bits is a great thing to have on hand. Many times, the fastener will come right out with drilling. However, this is to be used as one of the last attempts.