Stuck in first gear

Howard

Howard

Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
123
Location
England
Bike
2008 ST1300
Hi folks,

At the moment I am struggling with the gears a bit. Sometimes they are smooth and at other times feel pretty rough. My main concern is that when I stop in traffic and try to go from first to neutral I often can't and have to wait with the clutch held in. Not always but the problem seems to be getting more frequent. Any thoughts would be appreciated...before I end up with my left hand twice the size of my right:)


On the plus side i am really enjoying this bike. My usual 15 minute commute now takes about an hour:D
 
There's linkage there that could need some lubrication. You folks in the UK have some pretty corrosive weather from some of the things I've seen posted. There is a boot/linkage connection behind the transmission on the right side, it may need to be lubricated. Also, remove the left side lower black cowl and make sure that part of the linkage looks good and lub any obvious weak spots.
 
+1 on Mellow. Mine seized at this very point, difficulty in getting gears as it wasnt returning freely. Also bleed/ replace your clutch fluid if you have not already done so especially if its not clear in the window, a yellow colour.
 
Thanks for the good advice. This has improved things massively. Unfortunately I'm still having the one problem - sticking in first when i pull up at junctions. Any further ideas really appreciated
 
It is a good practice to be in first gear when sitting at a traffic stop. If this is a chore perhaps 50 repetitions three times a day on a small rubber ball or purpose-made hand strengthener will take care of a stiff clutch hand.
 
Howard said:
Thanks for the good advice. This has improved things massively. Unfortunately I'm still having the one problem - sticking in first when i pull up at junctions. Any further ideas really appreciated
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So while sitting still, clutch lever pulled, it is hard to get to neutral from first? If so, try rolling to a stop in second gear and tapping it down to neutral once stopped. Is that just as hard? Is it any different between 1-to-neutral or 2-to-neutral if the bike is still rolling? I'm wondering if it may be that your clutch is dragging slightly (not fully disengaging)--if yes, a clutch fluid bleed would be the next thing to do.
 
BakerBoy said:
So while sitting still, clutch lever pulled, it is hard to get to neutral from first? If so, try rolling to a stop in second gear and tapping it down to neutral once stopped. Is that just as hard? Is it any different between 1-to-neutral or 2-to-neutral if the bike is still rolling? I'm wondering if it may be that your clutch is dragging slightly (not fully disengaging)--if yes, a clutch fluid bleed would be the next thing to do.
Click to expand...
If it's up on the centre stand, engine running, snick it into gear. Does the rear wheel start rotating? If you apply the rear brake, does the engine sound like it's taking on a load? If so, then I'd agree with BB - your clutch sounds like it's dragging. It's not fully disengaging.
 
dduelin said:
It is a good practice to be in first gear when sitting at a traffic stop. If this is a chore perhaps 50 repetitions three times a day on a small rubber ball or purpose-made hand strengthener will take care of a stiff clutch hand.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I can see the logic about getting out of the way quickly if necessary but i was taught to always put it in neutral. That way if your hand slips for any reason, you won't lurch up the road. Horses for courses I suppose.
 
Howard said:
Interesting. I can see the logic about getting out of the way quickly if necessary but i was taught to always put it in neutral. That way if your hand slips for any reason, you won't lurch up the road.
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Right hand or foot on the brake will solve that problem. Also helps traffic behind you see that you're stopped because your brake light will be on.

--Mark
 
Howard said:
Interesting. I can see the logic about getting out of the way quickly if necessary but i was taught to always put it in neutral. That way if your hand slips for any reason, you won't lurch up the road. Horses for courses I suppose.
Click to expand...

We don't have the strict licensing requirements you have in the UK but the rough equivalent of your basic rider course we have in the USA teaches this. Doesn't the CBT or other advanced training teach the same practice?
 
yes. The theory is that the unexpected lurch would unbalance you and so the foot would come off the brake and....crash. Advanced pursuit training is the same. You know when you expect to have to be hot off the mark so you would hold it in first. If not then neutral is the place to be. Less chance of the unexpected catching you out and only a milli second delay if the need for speed comes your way unexpectedly. But each to his own. I always think that if you're doing what you feel comfortable with then you'll be safest you can be.
 
Howard said:
The theory is that the unexpected lurch would unbalance you and so the foot would come off the brake and....crash.
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I'm not sure I buy the idea that an idling motorcycle engine would be making enough torque to do anything but stall under those conditions. I've stalled my ST several times and the lurch was trivial.

--Mark
 
I see your point but I presume the theory is for all/any bike not just the pan. Same rules apply to cars. Handbrake on, in neutral is suggested as the safest way....
 
I would like to see a training reference that suggests stopping in neutral on a motorcycle is the safest way.

Think it through..... you are sitting there stopped. As you have described, presumably you will have the bike in neutral, the foot brake on (how else would your foot slip off the brake when your hand slips off the clutch and you lurch??). That means your left foot is on the ground supporting the bike. If you have to get going in a hurry you have switch feet, fumble with the shift lever, hope the dogs on the gears stopped turning at the right place so you can snick it into gear the first time, select first gear, throttle up and go.

Contrast that with stopping in first gear, clutch in, handbrake on, both feet supporting the machine. If you need to go you go.

Honestly compare the two scenerios and see who gets out of the way of the unexpected car closing in on you quicker...........or at all.
 
I wonder if the neutral at a stop was a throw back to clutch cables breaking?

Prolly most important is paying attention to your 6 while stopped.
 
We were taught to stand in neutral, front brake on (to show the brake light) left foot on peg ready to snick into first gear, right foot on floor. I don't like the idea of sitting in gear for several minutes holding my clutch in.
Checking both rear mirrors as traffic approaches is advisable too... getting ready to bolt out of his way...
 
Snave said:
We were taught to stand in neutral, front brake on (to show the brake light) left foot on peg ready to snick into first gear, right foot on floor. I don't like the idea of sitting in gear for several minutes holding my clutch in.
Checking both rear mirrors as traffic approaches is advisable too... getting ready to bolt out of his way...
Click to expand...

I do not disagree when a significant amount of time waiting is involved for the light to change or traffic to clear ahead. That is not really what I was talking about. BRC teaches rolling to the initial stop in first gear so if you have to move quickly you are prepared.
 
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