Swing arm removal questions

Aladinbama

Aladinbama

Joined
Sep 11, 2011
Messages
343
Location
Pearland, Tx.
Bike
97 ST1100 04 ST1300
I'm going in :run1:
My universal joint has developed a clunk that I want to get rid of. I know it's the universal as all the other parts south of that have been replaced. I know there's a special tool that you take the swing arm nut off with, but I've also heard that you can do it with a punch and hammer as well (without doing damage to the surfaces). I'm OK with that as I have done that on various other things in my life, BUT how would you get close to the proper torque putting it back on?
I picked up a used shaft assembly with (supposedly) 7,800 miles on it. It does look pretty much brand new. Everything feels tight and surfaces (gearing) don't show any wear.

Also, Is there anything I need to consider in doing this. You know, tips and tricks type things. I have replaced the final drive already so I'm familiar with the wheel off wheel on procedure for tightening and loosening those nuts and getting everything back in line!
 
Do you want to borrow the backup STOC ST1100 swingarm pivot bolt lock ring tool and 17mm hex-bit (1/2” drive)? Price of postage.

John
 
Last edited:
John OoSTerhuis said:
Do you want to borrow the backup STOC ST1100 swingarm pivot bolt lock ring tool and 17mm hex-bit (1/2” drive)? Price of postage.

John
Click to expand...
Sounds like a better plan.
Feel free to instruct me as to how :)
Sometimes even with the best of intentions hacks can mess things up!
 
I'd use the proper tools...
Ham-fisting can cause more damage and time as it's worth...
Electric/pneumatic impact wrench for removal, torque wrench + "special nut" for installation.
 
Aladinbama said:
Is there anything I need to consider in doing this.
Click to expand...
Moly paste and moly grease as indicated in the Service Manual. A quality torque wrench to set the important swingarm bearings preload to 156 inch lbs w/3/8” to 1/2” drive adapter, and a breaker bar to hold it while torquing the lock ring. A quality torque wrench to set the right pivot bolt and left bolt’s lock ring to 76 foot lbs. To remove the swingarm you must first grab the end of the driveshaft and pull the u-joint on the other end off the trannie output shaft.

I’ll put the tools in the mail tomorrow, Tom.

John
 
I like to do it by feel. Clean the male threads around the preload adjuster and add 2 drops of red locktite 180 degrees apart. Then tighten the left bearing preload adjust while rocking the swing arm sideways. You will feel it move until the bearing clearance is zero. Then turn it just a tad more to add some preload to the tapered roller bearings. They need to be slightly reloaded. Then wait several hours for the locktite to cure. Then add two drops of red locktite to the female threads on the lock nut and install the lock nut. Snug it down good by feel. The red high strength locktite will keep it in place. Mine hasn't moved in three years.
 
I've got a new boot coming already and will follow the book procedures and your advice.

Of course if I have any questions you know where those are going :)

And Thanks John!
 
ST1100Y said:
Electric/pneumatic impact wrench for removal, torque wrench + "special nut" for installation.
Click to expand...
I'm intrigued, how do you remove the lock nut without the special tool and just a torque wrench.

The reason I ask is that I'm waiting for the special tool so I can remove the Swing arm and if I can remove without the special tool that would speed the process up
 
John OoSTerhuis said:
Do you want to borrow the backup STOC ST1100 swingarm pivot bolt lock ring tool and 17mm hex-bit (1/2” drive)?
Click to expand...
Can you recall if there is a 17mm hexbolt elsewhere on the ST1100 ?

The reason I ask is that after reading this; I went to get the 17mm from my toolbox in preparation for swing arm removal and it was missing ! I am trying to remember if I used it previously on the bike for any other job (this will help me work out if its my fault its missing or if I loaned it to someone and didn't get it back)
 
kiltman said:
I second what Bush recommends, you stand a fighting chance getting that boot on when it's brand new
Click to expand...
A dab of silicone brake grease on the inside of the boot will make reassembly much much easier.
 
ST1100Y said:
Fork caps, rear axle...
Click to expand...
I found a few nuts that fit inside the fork cap recess, so I ran them onto a bolt, aligned them and welded them in place. I keep this in my bike's tool kit. To remove any of these 17mm hex bolts I slip my 'adapter' into the hex opening on the axle/fork cap and use a standard 17mm socket. I have an old 17mm allen key left over from my VW bug days but applying a spec'ed torque with a short allen wrench is difficult. It's not as easy to use as my 1/2" breaker bar and socket, either.
 
BFH lock ring removal method (which I don’t recommend, but STeve asked):
Two folks simultaneously hit drifts (highly recommend sacrificial brass, not steel) placed in the castelations 180° apart.

Years ago I was assisting at a double 40amp alt upgrade techSTOC when we found one of the ST1100s had a badly mangled swingarm lock ring, obviously from a previous removal with steel drift and BFH. Hence my mention of two folks and brass drifts. FWIW YMMV

John
 
John OoSTerhuis said:
Do you want to borrow the backup STOC ST1100 swingarm pivot bolt lock ring tool and 17mm hex-bit
Click to expand...
Aladinbama said:
Sounds like a better plan.
Click to expand...
John OoSTerhuis said:
I’ll put the tools in the mail tomorrow, Tom.
Click to expand...
Tools are in the custody of the United States Postal Service, Priority Mail. ETA Thurs.
Asterysk said:
Can you recall if there is a 17mm hexbolt elsewhere on the ST1100 ?
Click to expand...
Rear axle and all standard and early model ABS fork caps.

John
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom