Tapping PIAA 910's to the high beam relay

[Big Al]

I'm on a quest to slave my PIAA 910's to the high beam switch on the left handlebar console, and still have the option to enable/disable my 910's using the suppied bug switch when the high beams are on.

I need help finding the best way/place to tap the 910's bug switch into the high beam's low power relay switch. The lights, of course, will be getting their power directly from the battery.

Any of you smart fellas out there with any good ideas, pics, or diagrams? I will be most greatfull for your input. :bow1:

 

[ligito]

Tap into the high beam wire and connect the Bug switch between that and the switched input tab on the relay.

The wire will run from your high beams, through the Bug switch and then,to number 86 on the relay.

 

[ligito]

Here is a diagram that I downloaded.

Replace the Ignition switch with high beam headlight circuit, for the source.

 

[Big Al]

I'm not sure I understand. When you say the ignition switch, are you referring to the Hi/Low beam switch?

 

[number9]

Just use the Hi-beam to send the "signal" power to fire the relay. The 910 bug switch would be wired into the run from the Hi-beam to the relay so you could turn the bug switch OFF and open (or kill) the circuit to the relay.

So.....you'd have to splice in (or make a jumper wire to keep from cutting the stock Hi-beam wires) a new power wire on the Hi-beam power wire, this would run into the 910 bug switch and then on to the relay. The ground for this run would come off the relay to the frame or where ever you decide to ground it. The other 2 poles of the relay would be power wires connected to the battery and the 910 lights.

With the 910 bug switch to ON, you flip the left bar switch to Hi-beam and the 910's come ON. With the 910 bug switch to OFF the circuit is open (or broken) and the Hi-beam switch only turns on the stock Hi-beams.

 

[number9]

Here, I doctored the nice pic that ligito posted to show what I was trying to say. The pic doesn't show the ground wire that comes off the 910's and must be run to ground.

 

[Big Al]

Thanks guys.
I did a little more searching and found this thread from crazyk.
I'll have it done in no time now!

 

[crazykz]

Thanks guys.
I did a little more searching and found this thread from crazyk.
I'll have it done in no time now!

Hey Big Al. Let me know if you have any questions.

Curt

 

[Big Al]

Curt,
Your thread has been a big help. I've since taken it a step further.
I've added a master cylider switch block assembly I ordered here at CA Sport Touring, and replaced the switches with 15A rocker switches w/LED's, and used one of them to replace the bug switch that came with the 910's.
The only other problem I had to resolve was that each switch, in the sw block assy, shares a common + & - wire. Which means that I needed to add another relay to the hi beam wire as the switching means to switch on the 910's relays. I've attached a diagram I've drawn up.

PS.. Let me know what you think
Alan

 

[crazykz]

Curt,
Your thread has been a big help. I've since taken it a step further.
I've added a master cylider switch block assembly I ordered here at CA Sport Touring, and replaced the switches with 15A rocker switches w/LED's, and used one of them to replace the bug switch that came with the 910's.
The only other problem I had to resolve was that each switch, in the sw block assy, shares a common + & - wire. Which means that I needed to add another relay to the hi beam wire as the switching means to switch on the 910's relays. I've attached a diagram I've drawn up.

PS.. Let me know what you think
Alan

Did you get a wiring harness for the 910's? I noticed you have a relay for each lamp in your diagram but I'm wondering why? You can feed both lamps from one relay. Did you get the wiring harness for the 910's when you bought the lamps?

I did the same thing you are doing I believe. The PIAA switch turns the lamps on and off but I made a little H4 harness to tap the high beam circuit to send to the relay for the PIAA's. So the 910's come on when I turn on the high beams and I have the pushbutton depressed.

Curt

 

[Big Al]

Did you get a wiring harness for the 910's? I noticed you have a relay for each lamp in your diagram but I'm wondering why? You can feed both lamps from one relay. Did you get the wiring harness for the 910's when you bought the lamps?

I did the same thing you are doing I believe. The PIAA switch turns the lamps on and off but I made a little H4 harness to tap the high beam circuit to send to the relay for the PIAA's. So the 910's come on when I turn on the high beams and I have the pushbutton depressed.

Curt

I used the supplied wiring harness that came with the 910's which was equipped with 2 relays. That's what the diagram represents.
The supplied wireing harness was already setup to use one wire to feed the switching sources on both PIAA relays.

It sounds like you and I have done the same thing (I think) (correct me if I'm wrong) with the exception that I'm using the sw block assy instead of a single switch to optionally, enable/disable the lamps when using the hi beams.

 

[crazykz]

I used the supplied wiring harness that came with the 910's which was equipped with 2 relays. That's what the diagram represents.
The supplied wireing harness was already setup to use one wire to feed the switching sources on both PIAA relays.

It sounds like you and I have done the same thing (I think) (correct me if I'm wrong) with the exception that I'm using the sw block assy instead of a single switch to optionally, enable/disable the lamps when using the hi beams.

Ok. Yes, I'm doing the same thing except you're using that switch box to do it. Sounds like you have it under control. You must have received a different harness then me though because I only have one relay which is fine with me since I don't have very much room for it in the fairing.

Curt


Curt

 

[Big Al]

I'll post some pictures later this evening.

 

[Byron]

Big Al,

I knew something was bugging me about your needing to add an additional relay into the mix. See if this will work out cleaner: Do not wire S3 to any other wire in the switch box. Instead run a wire from the high beam connection of the headlight into the switch. Then join the wires off the 86 connection on the relays and run a lead to the other pole of S3. With S3 in the open/off position no 910's in the closed/on position 910's will light. No need for the extra relay.

 

[crazykz]

Big Al,

I knew something was bugging me about your needing to add an additional relay into the mix. See if this will work out cleaner: Do not wire S3 to any other wire in the switch box. Instead run a wire from the high beam connection of the headlight into the switch. Then join the wires off the 86 connection on the relays and run a lead to the other pole of S3. With S3 in the open/off position no 910's in the closed/on position 910's will light. No need for the extra relay.

He's right. I only used the relay in my kit. Run the 12V high beam to your switch. When the switch is on and you have the high beams on the PIAA's will come on. When you have either off then the PIAA's will be off. That's how I have mine setup. The H4 harness I made has a tap for the high beam wire. So when I turn the high beams on the push button for my piaa's turns on (it has an LED in it). Then if the push button is depressed the PIAA's come on and if not the PIAA's are off. No need for another relay there.

Curt


Curt

 

[Big Al]

I thought of that but, I installed the sw block assy months beforehand and tied it into the fuse box to make it easier for future upgrades and flexibility. Since I was using 15A switches, I didn't want to settle for anything less than 18ga wire. Because of this I was faced with limited space in the sw block assy and the original protective sleeve or tubing that came with the wires. There was no way I would've fit 9 wires in either the sleeve or the block.

However, you guys are right. If you have an idea of what you'll be using the switches for, and knew that each switch would not be running anything but low current devices, then you could use a smaller gage set of wires instead. Or even a combination of different gage wires.

I think the sw block assy's most usefull and practical purpose would be for additional lighting so, it's probably better to set it up that way. All the hi powered lights should be setup with relays to get power direct from the battery and the sw block assy should only be used to activate the relays or any other low powered device. Although, having it tied into the fuse box allows me for more flexibility.

- In either case, I hope this thread will be helpful to anyone interested in using the sw block assy. It looks good on the bike and doesn't reqire cutting into plastic or using any space in the fairing compartments. - Too bad this thread wasn't titled after it.

 

[Marshal_Mercer]

I'm on a quest to slave my PIAA 910's to the high beam switch on the left handlebar console, and still have the option to enable/disable my 910's using the suppied bug switch when the high beams are on.

I need help finding the best way/place to tap the 910's bug switch into the high beam's low power relay switch. The lights, of course, will be getting their power directly from the battery.

Any of you smart fellas out there with any good ideas, pics, or diagrams? I will be most greatfull for your input. :bow1:

Big Al:

I am about to do exactly what you say here: tap into the high beam relay wire, located just behind the rear, left side, plastic cover. I am doing this for the same reason that you stated: to activate the PIAA 910s' bug switch's relay wire when the high beams are on. I'll shoot some photos to you when I am done, if you like. Just PM me with your email address.

If you have an ST1300 manual, there is a nice drawing on page 22-30 that shows both high- and low-beams' relays, and identifies the wires by color.

For those wondering why to do this, it's because the PIAA relay is located beneath the rider's seat and the headlights' relays are only about 12 inches away; no need to run a wire to the headlight.

Marshal

 

[Big Al]

Big Al:

I am about to do exactly what you say here: tap into the high beam relay wire, located just behind the rear, left side, plastic cover. I am doing this for the same reason that you stated: to activate the PIAA 910s' bug switch's relay wire when the high beams are on. I'll shoot some photos to you when I am done, if you like. Just PM me with your email address.

If you have an ST1300 manual, there is a nice drawing on page 22-30 that shows both high- and low-beams' relays, and identifies the wires by color.

For those wondering why to do this, it's because the PIAA relay is located beneath the rider's seat and the headlights' relays are only about 12 inches away; no need to run a wire to the headlight.

Marshal

Hi Marshal,
Tapping the PIAA's relay's into directly into the stock fuse block under the seat is a great idea. Although, you won't have the option of using your hi-beams without the PIAA's coming on too, unless you plan to use the supplied bug switch. If you are using the supplied bug switch, then it should be easy to slave it to your hi-beams back there. Just tap the bug switch's + into the hi-beam wire and the - wire to ground.

 

[crazykz]

It depends on where you're going to put the relay a little bit. I actually ordered some connectors from http://www.easternbeaver.com and made a pigtail for one of the headlamps and when I crimped the connector pin for the highbeam I crimped in an extra wire. Then I used the wire to trigger my relay.

So the switch for the PIAA's is activated when I go to my brights then I have the option to have the PIAA's on or off.

I've posted some pics of it. It works great. I used a posi-lock to attach it to the trigger wire for the relay.

In case this helps:
http://www.hard-core-ware.com/howtos/index.php?page=piaas

Curt

 

[foilrat]

Curt,
Your thread has been a big help. I've since taken it a step further.
I've added a master cylider switch block assembly I ordered here at CA Sport Touring, and replaced the switches with 15A rocker switches w/LED's, and used one of them to replace the bug switch that came with the 910's.

Hey, quick question:

I'm assuming this fit and worked just fine on the ST, but I figured I had better not assume and just ask. So.

Does this fit and work on the ST1300? Heh.

thanks,

david/foilrat