Going to wrap my headers first. Just got the bike with 66 thousand on the clock. Runs sweet but needs a new clutch. Looks like a new bike. Will post my winter overhaul.
The less heat the better.
- Thread starter Oregon Outback Bill
- Start date
Walleye
Site Supporter
what year is your bike ? Is the clutch gone or slipping under load or ?
STumped
Because I usually am . . . .
Since the bike is new to you, you don't know the history. Hard to believe that the previous owner wore out the clutch in only 66,000 miles. Mine has 99,000 miles on original clutch. Many have well over 100,000 miles on original clutch. If your clutch is slipping under load it is possible that previous owner used car oil with "friction modifiers" that may be causing the slip. Maybe ask P.O. what he used for oil? Or, if you haven't already, drain the oil and replace oil filter then fill with oil that meets JASO MA standards in the 10w30 to 20w50 range (10w30 or 10w40 are preferred). After the oil change ride it and put some miles on to see if anything changes. If it still slips (hopefully less) then maybe change oil again after a couple thousand miles to flush out any old car oil that remained after your fist oil change. I have seen on other forums for other model bikes that it sometimes takes multiple oil changes before the clutch plates are cleaned enough to perform properly.
The ST1300 has a lot of torque so it wouldn't take much to slip the clutch if the wrong oil was used, even in fifth gear. I used to teach the MSF Basic Rider Course and the guy who maintained the bikes used plain old 10w30 car oil to top off the bikes we used for training. Even those little anemic 250's that we used began to slip under full throttle -- and those bikes don't have anywhere NEAR the torque of the ST1300!
Let us know how things pan out.
OP
OP
Thanks. yes under full throttle it will slip. Been taking it easy and so far fine.
OP
OP
Thanks much for the reply. Maybe my oil change from Motul full syn to 50/50 GTX may have change the friction some. its 10/40 Castrol half syn it has wet clutch rating for moto. Will change to Honda pro oil next and see, again thanks. At 66,000 miles I may change the pump and clutch this winter its a month away where we live. Just for the fun of it lol. Will post what I find thanks all.Since the bike is new to you, you don't know the history. Hard to believe that the previous owner wore out the clutch in only 66,000 miles. Mine has 99,000 miles on original clutch. Many have well over 100,000 miles on original clutch. If your clutch is slipping under load it is possible that previous owner used car oil with "friction modifiers" that may be causing the slip. Maybe ask P.O. what he used for oil? Or, if you haven't already, drain the oil and replace oil filter then fill with oil that meets JASO MA standards in the 10w30 to 20w50 range (10w30 or 10w40 are preferred). After the oil change ride it and put some miles on to see if anything changes. If it still slips (hopefully less) then maybe change oil again after a couple thousand miles to flush out any old car oil that remained after your fist oil change. I have seen on other forums for other model bikes that it sometimes takes multiple oil changes before the clutch plates are cleaned enough to perform properly.
The ST1300 has a lot of torque so it wouldn't take much to slip the clutch if the wrong oil was used, even in fifth gear. I used to teach the MSF Basic Rider Course and the guy who maintained the bikes used plain old 10w30 car oil to top off the bikes we used for training. Even those little anemic 250's that we used began to slip under full throttle -- and those bikes don't have anywhere NEAR the torque of the ST1300!
Let us know how things pan out.
ToddC
Site Supporter
Welcome and flush those brakes too.
New oil swapped a couple times might clear up that slippage.
Look into your rear shock adjuster, most are all low on oil. Easy fix, read up on it in the service forums.
Join us for Newstoc next June.
T
New oil swapped a couple times might clear up that slippage.
Look into your rear shock adjuster, most are all low on oil. Easy fix, read up on it in the service forums.
Join us for Newstoc next June.
T
If you’re wrapping the headers to make the ST cooler to ride you’re wasting effort. I ceramic coated mine, and wrapped them, with very little change .
Just in case you run out of things to do this winter....
www.st-owners.com
Article - Maintenance Items Needed for a New (old) Bike | Articles
This article is the result of collaboration by Andrew Shadow, CYYJ, jfheath, Max Pete, SMSW, and SupraSabre. Igofar’s list was copied from the first link listed above. Click on the attached file. This one is V.11; in the future, any changes will be noted in the title on the first page as the...
Wrapping your pipes will only cause damage to your wire harness and plastics, and won’t fix or cure your heat issues, only mask it.
Tuning the bike correctly, and a couple other simple service things will work much better.
Tuning the bike correctly, and a couple other simple service things will work much better.
OP
OP
These bikes run hot. The heat is trapped in the fairing and that is that. Check the rad to see how many bent fins there are. New thermostat and coolant is always a good idea.
Igofar is a good source of information or you can just ride down and see him.
Igofar is a good source of information or you can just ride down and see him.
My slipping clutch was actually the clutch lever, the bushing was worn out and sticking at the outer most travel. I replaced the lever, bushing, rubber boot and used anti seize compound, end of trouble
Also, when you change your oil, tie clutch lever back (disengaged) so oil in clutch can drain better
Also, when you change your oil, tie clutch lever back (disengaged) so oil in clutch can drain better
Not after I tune them…
20 minutes idling on table lift in 110 degree temperatures.
Attachments
Wrap exhaust ?!?!?! A waste of time and money.
Two 13's here and heat never bothered me. Might be a tune up is required.
Needs a new clutch !?!? With 66k? There's something else rwong, like mechanical or bad engine oil. If properly maintained, that clutch will last WAY longer
Amazing. Where is the thermometer pointed?
Side of tank, side of frame spar, fairing near knees etc.
Every bike that comes through the garage is checked before and after with a heat gun at all the same locations etc.
Most run in the high 140 degree range before, and between 92-112 when finished.
I smile at all these guys who claim “we’ve tried everything, and did all the tune up stuff, and it made no difference”.
Only to be left speechless after I lower their temperatures with just a few simple tweaks here and there.
It’s all about paying attention to the smallest details….and not believing all the stupid YouTube videos, or the people who claim its not possible.
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I'd still like to see where and how the temps are measured. Methodology is everything. Sorry I'm still a skeptic .... balancing the idle vacuums with a careful starter valve synch will have no effect on off idle mixtures and the running down the road exhaust gas temperatures. On this bike the programmed fuel injection handles the air/fuel mixture and resultant heat off the engine and exhaust system once the butterflies in the throttle body begin to open off idle.
I do know that when I use my infrared thermometer the slightest change in measurement location, distance, or angle to surface makes some difference in displayed temperatures when the actual temperature is not changing. Something like this is illustrative:
I do know that when I use my infrared thermometer the slightest change in measurement location, distance, or angle to surface makes some difference in displayed temperatures when the actual temperature is not changing. Something like this is illustrative:
I'm 3 days to surgery, and don't have the strength, nor the desire to engage in another debate with you at the moment.
You assume I'm claiming this was done with a starter valve sync alone.
Nowhere in my post did I claim this.
A few simple tweaks here and there was what I typed.
But as always, you try to discredit anything I do, and claim it is not possible.
Why don't you message several of the folks in my review section, that have stood here, watched, and saw the results first hand for themselves, as there have been MANY.
Contact them, and try to convince them that they are wrong.
I'm sure that will keep you busy defending yourself for a while, and allow me to rest.
You assume I'm claiming this was done with a starter valve sync alone.
Nowhere in my post did I claim this.
A few simple tweaks here and there was what I typed.
But as always, you try to discredit anything I do, and claim it is not possible.
Why don't you message several of the folks in my review section, that have stood here, watched, and saw the results first hand for themselves, as there have been MANY.
Contact them, and try to convince them that they are wrong.
I'm sure that will keep you busy defending yourself for a while, and allow me to rest.
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Are you claiming it is impossible, even for an obsessive-compulsive fellow, to get a hot running ST down to the level of a less hot one?
docw1
Bill Rankin
One of the tweaks that Igofar helped me with was to clean the PAIR valves. at the time, at 150k miles, they were pretty gunked up and weren't working order. A strong solvent cleaned them up. I think this was one of the main things that helped lower the temp, and it's not in the routine maintenance schedule.