This is going to sound stupid, but here goes . . .

[lance1586]

doing replacement H4 lamps on my, new to me ST1100, drivers went well, RH side was a pita and had to sadly remove te screw that holds the retainer clip on. So, dropped that Jesus screw and have tried a 4mm which is too amall, a 5mm seems too big and I don't feel like completely tearing this thing apart, to tap and die this die cast housing. The bike is tron apart in frons as I am doing fork seals and pads up front. So, my question does anyone know, for sure what size that retainer screw is or have an extra one lying around, as unlikely as that may be Thanks in advance, I am new ST owner and new to this forum

 

[Uncle Phil]

If you have the upper fairings off, I'd just pull the headlight assembly out so you can easily work on it.
You don't have to completely remove the upper fairings, just the screws and bolts enough so you can spread it apart a little bit to get the headlight out.

 

[dwalby]

I think this is the screw you're talking about, and it appears to be self-tapping, not a machine thread, which probably explains why neither of the machine screws you tried would fit.

try to convert a 4mm sheet metal screw into a common US size and give it a try. Or just buy the Honda screw and wait for it to be delivered.

 

[Ron]

Try am 4mm x 12mm long sheet metal screw from a hardware store, maybe Lowes or home depot.

PM me your address and I'll send you one. Remind me what you're writing about.

 

[Uncle Phil]

I think this is the screw you're talking about, and it appears to be self-tapping, not a machine thread, which probably explains why neither of the machine screws you tried would fit.

try to convert a 4mm sheet metal screw into a common US size and give it a try. Or just buy the Honda screw and wait for it to be delivered.

I think he needs the one that holds the bulb retaining clip in place - which does not show on the diagram.

 

[dwalby]

I think he needs the one that holds the bulb retaining clip in place - which does not show on the diagram.

Ah, I wasn't sure about that, but I think you're right. The one I highlighted doesn't look like the retaining hook screw now that I look at it again.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Ah, I wasn't sure about that, but I think you're right. The one I highlighted doesn't look like the retaining hook screw now that I look at it again.

It's the one that holds the headlight adjuster cable to the back of the headlight.

 

[lance1586]

Thanks for the replies fellas! I could've swore that was a machine screw but it makes sense now. I have a Westlake 2 blocks from the house which comes in handy! Once again, thanks a bunch esp for the diagrams and all the info! It's why I hopped on here. I haven't been on any forums in along time since I gave up competitive shooting and the car hobby, but know these communities are always out here!

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

What Uncle Phil said - take the headlight module out. There’s a 10mm flange-head bolt on each side that you get to from the back side. Paint the head of it white so you can find it easier the next time. AMHIKT

John

 

[Larry Fine]

This is after about an hour of trying to clip in the new LED flanges with the housing in place:

 

[raygks]

I’ve been replacing my bulbs every year from F2 led to halogen and back to led at least 10x due to yearly vehicle inspection requirements where I’m located(non halogen bulbs cannot pass relevant standards as long as it’s not default from oem factory), should be able to be done within an hour.

I leave the silver screw slightly loose always(so the spring clip can swing back and still latch on the screw), loosen 1/2turn the golden screw holding the bracket and unhook the bail from the top slowly, pushing clip tip inwards and up, then slide the clip tip away to remove the bulb.

installation is reversed, but only tightened the golden screw holding the clip bracket , I leave the other screw slightly loose

I only remove the front shield, garnish etc,1st few tries might be frustrating, after a little practice and fiddling, you’ll get to it.

or maybe I have a non abs and default H4 housing that makes it easier to adapt the led spacer.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Yes, non abs and H4 headlights do make it easier.
On the ABSII models coming in from the top is not possible as electronics are attached to the back of the speedo unit.