Thoughts on ratchet straps

[fitzgerb]

While taking my bike to see John in Atlanta today, I kept having to retighten my straps. What am I missing? And who makes a quality USA strap that will stay tight? I was nervous that it was going to fall over. I don't own a wheel chock but I should find one. Thanks for the input in advance.

 

[dwalby]

you need to compress the suspension a bit, and yes, having the front wheel restrained is a big plus. Otherwise the bike can move around a little, suspension can change, and might explain your straps loosening, IDK.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Also, what type of flooring is in your trailer?
If it is metal mesh, it could be giving some if the sidestand is not on a 'plate' of some sort.
Hopefully you had it on a sidestand, bike in gear, and as Doug pointed out and compress the suspension.
I've hauled parts and wrecked bikes on my mesh bottom trailer 800-1000 miles with no issue using Harbor Freight type straps.
I hauled my 'blown up' ST1100 in the back of a UHaul truck strapped down and it didn't move an inch in 1,800+ miles over some really rough roads.
You've just got to snug the bike down to anchor points on the trailer that have no give.

 

[fitzgerb]

It's a solid aluminum floor and I had the wheel all the way forward. Suspension was compressed . I just feel like a better product may stay tighter? Tank straps?

 

[SMSW]

There are ratchet straps and there are ratchet straps. What I mean by this is there is a vast difference in quality in any given size. I have some very thin 1" straps that I always back up with another strap, and some heavier (thicker webbing) 1" straps that I trust. You need to shop around and look at the construction - how thick is the webbing? Do the ratchets look flimsy or robust? How thick is the metal they used to make the ratchets? How to they work when you move the lever to tighten them? Check out Hopot for the garbage grade, and then look at Lowes, and several auto parts stores. I'd also include a truck parts store - though they might have straps that are too wide and heavy for our usage.

There ARE good quality straps out there. If you buy online, make sure there is a return policy (Amazon, for example). Like most other things in life, the good ones are not the cheapest.

When I trailer my bike, I run a rope from one rail, loop it around the rear wheel, and take it to the other rail. This prevents the rear tire from moving side to side. I also lash the front wheel to the front rail of the trailer, as well as use 4 ratchet straps. To up front, two in the rear.

 

[Larry Fine]

And they need to be real ratchet srtaps that click and lock, not friction straps with a spring-loaded cam.

 

[fitzgerb]

There are ratchet straps and there are ratchet straps. What I mean by this is there is a vast difference in quality in any given size. I have some very thin 1" straps that I always back up with another strap, and some heavier (thicker webbing) 1" straps that I trust. You need to shop around and look at the construction - how thick is the webbing? Do the ratchets look flimsy or robust? How thick is the metal they used to make the ratchets? How to they work when you move the lever to tighten them? Check out Hopot for the garbage grade, and then look at Lowes, and several auto parts stores. I'd also include a truck parts store - though they might have straps that are too wide and heavy for our usage.

There ARE good quality straps out there. If you buy online, make sure there is a return policy (Amazon, for example). Like most other things in life, the good ones are not the cheapest.

When I trailer my bike, I run a rope from one rail, loop it around the rear wheel, and take it to the other rail. This prevents the rear tire from moving side to side. I also lash the front wheel to the front rail of the trailer, as well as use 4 ratchet straps. To up front, two in the rear.

Appreciate it. I thought mine were high quality but I was wrong

 

[SMSW]

Appreciate it. I thought mine were high quality but I was wrong

They might be, look around. If you want the cat's pajamas of trailer restraint systems, look at this. Not cheap, but v. robust. A friend has 3 for different bikes.

Pit Bull - Trailer Restraint Systems for Motorcycles

The Pit Bull Trailer Restraint System allows you to transport your motorcycle without straps or even a wheel chock. Strapless transportation has never been easier or more secure.

www.pit-bull.com

 

[Larry Fine]

They might be, look around. If you want the cat's pajamas of trailer restraint systems, look at this. Not cheap, but v. robust. A friend has 3 for different bikes.

Pit Bull - Trailer Restraint Systems for Motorcycles

The Pit Bull Trailer Restraint System allows you to transport your motorcycle without straps or even a wheel chock. Strapless transportation has never been easier or more secure.

www.pit-bull.com

No STs.

 

[SMSW]

No STs.

I think they will consider making special pins for a bike they don't have. Call and ask.

I'm no expert on these things, but they appear to use the same frame and special pins for each bike.

 

[Obo]

There are ratchet straps and there are ratchet straps.

Well said!

 

[Uncle Phil]

The ones I used for my 'long' haul were from Canadian Tire.
I always look at the 'maximum' capacity and what the rachet mechanism looks like.

 

[Igofar]

Old school, no slipping, jamming, letting loose straps from china for me, good quality rope or cord , and a truckers hitch, clove hitch, or constrictor knot.

 

[ST1100Y]

Not too keen about ratchet type tie-downs... people tend to overdo them, deforming/damaging bike parts (even braking the strap) in the process...
I got quality cam-buckle types, serve me well on trailers, trains and ferries...

 

[jfheath]

I had a motolug trailer at one time. See pic.

The front wheel had a rocking wheel grab device. I had ratchet straps on the rear step pulling the bike forward, a single strap under the seat across the seat frame, and handlebar sleeves that allowed a single strap to support the bike at the bars.

None of the straps were ratcheted very tightly - just enough to take up the slack, but the wheels were tied to the wheel trough. Tightening against the suspension simply added more load to the trough, so once the tension was in the strap, that was enough.

So the higher straps weren't holding the bike very firmly - they were stopping it from falling over. The Front and rear wheels were tied down to stop the rear lifting under heavy braking, and the trough and cradle stopped the wheels moving sideways

The hook fasteners were replaced with karabiner type devices 0therwise when the suspension compressed and the straps were no linger under tension, the hook could drop off. The bike was perfectly balanced like this - so panniers have to go in the car boot, as the trailer needed to be slightly nose heavy.

A twist in the ratchet straps stops them from howling in the wind.

 

[Obo]

Not sure from the photo above, but using the handlebar ends as tie down points isn't a great idea. Assuming as John said his were just taking up slack as the wheels were fastened then that doesn't really put the stress on them that otherwise would happen.

If you don't have a wheel lock system best to use the front tip over bars (remove the plastic covers) and connect to the frame underneath the seat. Avoid the bars if you can.

 

[Sadlsor]

In our MSF classes, we often carried 14 bikes in an enclosed traiker lashed down with cam buckle straps; when done properly as we learned how, they didn't budge. Sidestands up, bikes standing up on both wheels.

It's true some folks will over-torque ratchet straps, dmaging their suspension or even breaking handlebars. Front wheel chocks make it more secure, but if you can immobilize it, a chock is not absolutely necessary.

The rear passenger peg mounts and around the top of the triole tree are good places to secure straps to, on the 1300. I also like to use soft ties looped through on the bike parts, then attach straps to the loops in the soft ties.

Secure the tails of whatever straps are used, so they don't whip the bike and fairings flapping in the wind.

 

[klaproth]

I came up against this too...my trailer has a wheel trough in it, and an area that "holds" the front wheel, so, in effect, I can get off it, without straps on it, to get down off the trailer and secure it. I use well made straps from US Cargo Control, and loop them through the loops formed by the fall protection "wings" ( with the covers off). I also use some soft ties to go around the rare subframe, and ratchet straps back there.
I always had the same problems as @ jfheath above, the ratchet strap hooks would fall off as the trailer bounced, and moved to ratchet straps with hooks with retainers on them. I added some welded eyes on the side of the trailer, which made it MUCH easier to find a tiedown point as well. Here's a link for their bike straps:

Shop for Motorcycle Straps & Motorcycle Tie Down Systems

1 inch tie down straps are excellent motorcycle straps due to the narrow, easy-to-handle width and range of available options.

www.uscargocontrol.com

These consistently travel without loosening, for our entire trips up north, about 850 miles.

 

[Igofar]

Honda made it easy with the ST1300's.
Two eye bolts on the floor, a couple turn buckles, and a hook over the tip over hidden crash bar.
This is how they come to the dealership.

 

[fitzgerb]

The tip over bar is a great point of attachment . I used a soft shackle.