Throttle Cable Adjustment and Routing

[Red024]

Hello Everyone, I should start off by saying that I have recently rebuilt my 91 st1100 and have use this site for lots of help during this... experience, and now that i am almost done I cant seem to find the exact answer i am looking for.

I apparently did not take not of how exactly the throttle cables get routed around or under the air box. I thought it was around the outside of the guard of the air box and under the hose that comes out of the carburetor back to the air box.

Now it seems, after i fired it back up (started like a champ i might add) i could not get the idle to go down where it should. I backed off the idle control knob all the way but i can see that there is a gap between the return spring (throttle bell crank). I did rebuilt the carburetor during this whole undertaking but i did not mess with the return spring. the throttle seems to work fine, but will not return all the way "home".

I will add that before i did this i had some shop "rebuild" my carb and when i got the bike back it smelt like gas and then they said it was not there fault and would not work on it. So i dont know if that guy did something wrong and it was jacked to begin with or maybe since the throttle cables were not under pressure for a while (dont want to admit how long i have been working on this) that they got stiff since its hot as all H*** where i live in the summer.

My Question: Proper way to Route 91 St1100 throttle cables? Proper way to adjust throttle cables?

Thanks for all the help.

P.S. carb leaked gas because he did not put the vacuum chamber covers back on right and he did not remove/replace the Air chamber Duct assembly components

Written but not read, dinner is ready
-Red

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Sorry, Red, I can't find a picture handy but the schematics on pages 1-24 and 1-26 in the service manual should help. I'll keep looking in my archives but can pull the tupperware on my ST if necessary.

John

via iPhone 4S

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

The throttle grip free play spec range is 2mm to 6mm. The Honda Common Service Manual has a generic description of cable adjustment but it's pretty simple - the adjusters at the handlebar grip are generally used to take out small amounts of slack, the adjusters on the throttle body bracket are for large adjustments. Assuming you get the cables routed correctly, it sounds like you need to shorten the return cable to allow the throttle bellcrank to rotate all the way to its stop on the carb body.

When you're done, turning the handlebars to the stops shouldn't increase the idle speed. HTH

John

 

[Rossi]

Hi Red024. I have found a diagram of the throttle cable routing. I hope it helps.

Julien

 

[Red024]

@Rossi - Thanks for the diagram. I have the full service manual and I don't remember seeing that one off hand, but i cant remember. From that it does look like it rides on the outside of the air box as I have it currently routed.

@John - Thanks for the info. Please don't bother pulling all the plastic just too take a look. Unless you have some other project you are working on, i know its a pain.

My plan of attack:

Start with the carb side of the cables.
1) Back out the idle adjustment screw all the way.
2) Shorten the return cable until it hits the stop.
2.a) if necessary, lengthen the "pull" cable
3) Tighten it up

Check throttle free play at grip.
1) Follow common service manual.

Thanks again for the input. I will try that tonight if I get home at a decent hour and dont have a honey-do list waiting for me. I will update once its done.


... I might as well high jack my own thread and ask if anyone has any good links handy for replacing fork seals. I haven't searched for any yet, so don't rem me, but i figured since i am here i might as well ask.

Best,
Red

 

[Red024]

Hello everyone, sorry about the long delay, but I finally got a free weekend when it wasn't a 100 degrees to take a look at this a little closer.

So it turns out that after I completely backed out the idle adjust screw and completely removed the throttle cables the bell still does not return back to the carburetor/strike plate. SO I did something wrong. I am not exactly sure what the issue is, and I really dont want to take the carb all the way apart if I dont have to. I have attached some pics or the bell, springs and butterflies. Not sure if they will help.

Pic of bell not hitting carb



These next pics are in order of when you are looking at your carb on work bench

Pic of Carb 3, spring between, and Carb 1 Respectively:


Pic of Carb 2, springs between, and Carb 4 Respectively:



If anyone can tell me what to post or what i am should be looking for, I would really appreciate it.

For the recorder, I am a book learned mechanic. By that I mean, I got a book, I read it, I turned a wrench. So please of give my ignorance and lack of knowledge. Also this was the first time I have ever worked on a carburetor... Guess I should have started on a two cylinder before this bad boy. I wish I had some friends that like to work on vehicles, but what can you do.

To be honest, doing all the work to get the transmission out, cracking it open and working on, and putting it all back together was a lot easier than this damn carb is!

Thanks again for all the help, let me know what I should try next. Hopefully it wont take me a month to get to it next time. My company announced that they are doing layoffs next months, so I might have some free time!

Best,
Red

 

[c130flteng]

Can you manually turn the crank to the touch the plate? If so then you might just have a worn spring that does not want to return the crank all the way. When I had my carbs on my 95 out last year I had the same problem. Everything was clean and aligned but the spring just did not want to return crank to the idle position. I successfully was able to get another turn on the spring and it worked like a charm. The throttle is a little harder to turn (not much) but it returns to idle just fine.
If you cannot manually turn the crank to the idle position then something is binding and needs to be fixed.
Good Luck
Tony

 

[Red024]

Thanks for the reply c130flteng. I checked and it will not budge.


It looks like I need to take it apart and try again. Luckily, I guess, when I bought the carb rebuild kits I had to get 4 of them just to get the float bowl gaskets, so I should have extras of all the other gaskets. I just need to get the tonged washers that hold the big base that is on top of the carbs.... Unless people think I could get away with not replacing them since I only fired it up... but no, I am here, do it right while I am here! well right this time, not like last time. haha

Hopefully i can take a look at it this weekend and get it all back together. I will send an update once i get that back together.

Thanks again.