Throttle cable install - suddenly got stiff

Oldschool1

Joined
Oct 19, 2009
Messages
196
Location
Nor Cal
Bike
2005 ST1300A
Quick question.

I was just reinstalling the throttle cables after installing carbs, when by the time i hooked up the cables to the throttle linkage on the carb - they gained some friction resistance so that the throttle spring would not close the throttle.

Its not an allingment thing, and they are slack still.

Only can think a cable popped out of the throttle grip / mechanism on the bars.

Any ideas - common think if the cables get too slack - cable falls off wheel or someting? Thats where i'll start - disassembly.

Just thought someone else has had this problem before.

Thx,

Paul
 
Upon further investigation -there is resistance in the cables as the routing bends become more or less sever.

Also feels like some friction resistance in the grip when it rotates.

Any BKM's for cleaning or lubing the cables - prabably have not been touched in 18 yrs. Always worked fine w/o any hesitation of not returning to idle befoe this though.

Thx,

Paul
 
I managed to get the throttle grip off - well easy enough.

Cleane the bar sufrace (Heli Bars so black paint and cleaned the inside of the grip nylon out with IPA - now clean.

Reasmbled - put back to gether hooked up cables to carb linkage - it will now close by itself but still sluggish.

Is it common to lube the cables with a few drops of light oil like "Triflo" or similiar?

Carb linkage works like a dream - must be fiction in the cables now?

Ideas?

Ideas
 
If the cable worked fine before removal, but suddenly changed when you worked on it, lube isn't your issue. It wouldn't hurt to lube the cables...but that isn't going to be your problem. Try unhooking the cables at the handlebar end, leaving them run exactly as you have them. Pull the cable by hand...does it work smoothly? Pull the return cable...does that work smoothly? This will help isolate whether its a cable or grip issue.

Without the cable installed, does the grip move smoothly? If everything works smoothly when unhooked, I'd look at either how the cable might be getting jammed where it installs into the throttle grip assembly, or how the cables change position when they are hooked up, and where they might be kinking.

Also work the carb linkage by hand from where the cables attach to make sure that is working right.
 
nhdiesel said:
It wouldn't hurt to lube the cables...
Click to expand...
My mech always voted against the use of lube, as their inside is coated, making problems even worse by softening the plastic lining.
They eventually will wear out with years, if the throttle grip itself works smoothly (nothing sticks with the switch assy being bolted together), I'd simply go for a set of new throttle cables on an 18 year old bike.
 
Oldschool1 said:
I managed to get the throttle grip off - well easy enough.

Cleane the bar sufrace (Heli Bars so black paint and cleaned the inside of the grip nylon out with IPA - now clean.

Reasmbled - put back to gether hooked up cables to carb linkage - it will now close by itself but still sluggish.

Is it common to lube the cables with a few drops of light oil like "Triflo" or similiar?

Carb linkage works like a dream - must be fiction in the cables now?

Ideas?

Ideas
Click to expand...

I can tell you from experience that if you don't take some emory cloth and get rid of that powdercoat clear up to the controls mount, that throttle WILL continue to drag more........and more.......and more. After doing that, make sure inside of throttle assembly and bars are dry and clean.........no lube there whatsoever, or you will have issues down the road.:D Also would'nt surprise me after lubing and then taking back apart the powdercoating was a bit gummy. Do as I stated above, and definitely leave it all clean and dry(no lube whatsoever) and your issue will be resolved.
 
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FWIW, I use Tri-Flow on all of my throttle cables. My GL1800 has Teflon coated throttle cables and the FSM says it is OK to lube them. So, one might assume that such lubing is fine for the ST's throttle cables.

Also, for years I've been using a light layer of Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease to lube the inside of the throttle tube. This has always worked good for me, even on a bike that I raced motocross with back in the day (and, that bike saw its share of mud races).

JMTCW!
 
Thanks for teh tips.

I thoroughly cleaned the inside of the tube and put it back dry. It twists fine by itself. The cables are fine if straight.

The throttle now snaps back quickly if bars are straight. If i turn to the left the capbles get slightly tight (heli bars and he cables are in front of the right fork tube and then go back to carb under the tripple clamp.

I think the cables should be behind the tripple clamp to avoid acute bends - i think this is also som of the probelem.
 
Oldschool1 said:
I think the cables should be behind the tripple clamp to avoid acute bends - i think this is also som of the probelem.
Click to expand...
In the OEM setup both cables exit the handle assy pointing forward, the cables route in front of the RHS fork tube, below the upper t/clamp back to the steering head, underneath the yellow galvanized wire clip, etc...
Throttle handle should snap back in all positions of the steering, when in idle engine RPM should not change when rotation the steering side to side.
 
It sounds like the cables are being pulled tight due to the bar risers. You might have to reroute the cables to take the pressure off.
 
I have heli bars too. Mine sticks from time to time. I remove the grip and clean the throttle tube and bar surface. Add a bit of light lube to the cables and all is well.

In your case I would start at the carb. Make sure the linkage is not binding and functions. The butterfly should snap back with authority when cables are not attached. The factory service manual has the cable routing. Verify yours are correct. Detach cables at both ends. Verify cables move freely. No binds or funny feelings at all. You said you cleaned the grip already. I can't think of any other reason for sticky throttle.

I bet playing with routing will fix it.
 
when i changed over to helibars, i too had to reroute the cables.to allow smooth opperation. my biggest problem was the brake line- resorted to having a new, longer one made
 
Oldschool1 said:
Thanks for teh tips.

I thoroughly cleaned the inside of the tube and put it back dry. It twists fine by itself. The cables are fine if straight.

The throttle now snaps back quickly if bars are straight. If i turn to the left the capbles get slightly tight (heli bars and he cables are in front of the right fork tube and then go back to carb under the tripple clamp.

I think the cables should be behind the tripple clamp to avoid acute bends - i think this is also som of the probelem.
Click to expand...

Run both the clutch AND throttle cables behind the upper tripple clamp and forget about using that cute little clippy on the front of tripple clamps. This can be done on both, with throttle assembly and lever attached. Same for front lever assembly and hose. FWIW, the older style Heli-Bars make for things to be more easily manipulated.;)
 
If you don' install the number 1 carb boot clamp screw in the same location as it came off, it will make for a sticky throttle. Sitting on the bike, I believe it should be in the 2 o'clock position.

I found this out the hard way. See if that works.

If it worked smoothly before you took the carbs off, that could be the problem.

Good luck
 
Digger1 said:
FWIW, I use Tri-Flow on all of my throttle cables. My GL1800 has Teflon coated throttle cables and the FSM says it is OK to lube them. So, one might assume that such lubing is fine for the ST's throttle cables.

Also, for years I've been using a light layer of Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease to lube the inside of the throttle tube. This has always worked good for me, even on a bike that I raced motocross with back in the day (and, that bike saw its share of mud races).

JMTCW!
Click to expand...
May have worked back then with the chrome bars,and on the stock ST bars, but does NOT work using Heli-Bars. Their powder-coating does NOT play well with lubes, dino or synthetic. Neither does the inner plastic sheaving of the cables.........BTW, one moto-crosser to another, I was first place RMXA series in '03, 50+class here in Colo.
 
Digger1 said:
FWIW, I use Tri-Flow on all of my throttle cables. My GL1800 has Teflon coated throttle cables and the FSM says it is OK to lube them. So, one might assume that such lubing is fine for the ST's throttle cables.

Also, for years I've been using a light layer of Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease to lube the inside of the throttle tube. This has always worked good for me, even on a bike that I raced motocross with back in the day (and, that bike saw its share of mud races).

JMTCW!
Click to expand...

Brant said:
May have worked back then with the chrome bars,and on the stock ST bars, but does NOT work using Heli-Bars. Their powder-coating does NOT play well with lubes, dino or synthetic. Neither does the inner plastic sheaving of the cables.........BTW, one moto-crosser to another, I was first place RMXA series in '03, 50+class here in Colo.
Click to expand...

Well, I guess I'll get another look at that one (powder coating) the next time I tear things apart....but been doing it for the last 50K miles. Checked it 30K miles ago and did not note anything remarkable.

Same basically goes for the cables....have not yet noticed anything untoward.

Sold my MX bike back in '05. I quit racing after the Columbia crash and never could get going again on it.....
 
Digger1 said:
Well, I guess I'll get another look at that one (powder coating) the next time I tear things apart....but been doing it for the last 50K miles. Checked it 30K miles ago and did not note anything remarkable.

Same basically goes for the cables....have not yet noticed anything untoward.

Sold my MX bike back in '05. I quit racing after the Columbia crash and never could get going again on it.....
Click to expand...
Understand that......mine went away after goin' down on my ST in '08.......hard to stay out front with a 'no fear' attitude after an incident like that.......plus 'wisdom' set in deeper......would rather 'live to ride', and glad to hear your lubricating technique is working for you. Took bout 3days and my throttle got less and less workable. Powdercoat underneath was a bit gummy and rolled up:eek:
 
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nhdiesel said:
Are you sure someone didn't paint them instead of PC? That sounds like what paint would do. PC is usually very resistant to chemicals.
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Would of been my first suspect nhdiesel, but they were new, and the last of that "first generation" Heli-Bars. Possibly was the contents of the spray lube I used, and don't even remember what lube it was. No issues for 4+ some yrs. now just leavin' everything 'dry'. Like I said, I maybe suspect the contents of the spray lube I used, cause it caused the plastic inner sheathing of the throttle cable on my 81Yammy Venturer1100 to swell to the point cable would'nt slide in housing when I put a nice used set of Heli-Bars on it. IIRC, I threw the can out after that issue. Anyway, made me hesitant to use anything on the cable housing or throttle assemblies after that. With the dry climate and almost zero humidity here, don't have moisture or corrosion issues to deal with, and my bought new 32yr.old Venturer's perfect cond. is a test to that.
 
i had once tryed to use acetone to clean my new helibars---almost instantly the finish started to lift and also gum up. for this reason i belive they are not powdered coated but just a good spray painting job. ..i just visited the helibar site and can't find any infomation on the finishes...so safe to assume, it's just painted
 
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