tight axle after wheel bearing change

That was lucky then - my experience of this is that when the bearing isn't knocked in far enough to touch the spacer, tightening the axle certainly draws in the bearing using the inner race, but it leaves the outer race behind making the bearing tight. The result of this is that when you slacken the axle a bit, it frees up.

Maybe the tight fit of the bearing against the casing isn't as tight as it was on mine so that tightening the onto the inner race pulled in the oute race without much resistance.

For anyone wondering what I am talking about - the spacer tube / is slightly longer than the distance between the shoulders - ie the first bearing to be driven in is seated on the shoulder in the hub. The second bearing to be driven in in doesn't meet the shoulder at all - it meets the spacer tube first. Which is why it is important to find out which side bearing has to be installed first - get it the wrong way round and it changes the centre line of the wheel. The first side for the first bearing to go in is different for the front and rear wheels.

Still I'm glad that it is turning freely now.
 
Just to be clear… if tightening the axle is being used to bring the wheel bearings’ inner races into contact with the distance collar (closing a ‘gap,’ no matter how small), those inner races are not then in alignment with their outer races, which causes abnormal bearing wear and eventual premature failure. JMHO

As to which bearing should be driven first (outer race fully to the wheel’s recesses’ shoulder), I don’t think it’s critical, concerning overall wheel alignment. The brake caliper and final drive can accept that minute difference easily. IMHO

Ideally, one should install the first bearing, flip the wheel over and support both races of the new bearing (appropriate size bearing driver if possible), and drive the second bearing (being careful to keep the distance collar aligned) until the inner races and collar are in direct contact. Should hear a nice “ping” when that happens. Again… JMHO

John
 
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Doesn't make any sense to me either. If tightening the axle is causing any lateral deflection of the bearings inner races, a side loaded bearing is the result.
 
So I pulled out my first edition ST1100 Service manual and I hope I discovered an error that was corrected later (has anyone posted them here or on another trustworthy site?)

Did the authors know their right from their left?

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Deanr is welcome to drop by anytime he feels the need for a tinker session. We're not that far down the road.
 
STRider said:
So I pulled out my first edition ST1100 Service manual and I hope I discovered an error that was corrected later (has anyone posted them here or on another trustworthy site?)

Did the authors know their right from their left?

1623139177884.png
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My manual is dated April 1992, Tom.

7CB3E1DC-C257-48C7-9707-3463F9210BEC.jpeg
 
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A Harley Davidson manual would really confuse you :rofl1:
The bike is viewed from the front, as in facing the bike, for the correct orientation etc.
The rotors are marked Left/Right and are only correct if your standing in front of the bike looking at it.
They consider it the customers bike, and the mechanic should not be sitting on it to determine Left/Right. ;)
 
Reminds me of spotting techniques for off-road 4x4s. You don't use 'left' and 'right' in your verbal directions, instead you use 'driver' and 'passenger'. The later is unambiguous and the former can too easily be confused between the spotter's and driver's point of view if the spotter is in front and facing the vehicle. Of course if the vehicle is domestic market British or Japanese then adjust accordingly. :)
 
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