Time has come for my ST1100

Suggestion: While you have the tank out remove the fuel shutoff. This doesn't affect how the bike runs but can leave you sitting on the side of the road. Ask me how I know.....
 
I saw discussions about its rusting, in the lower part.
The rust is usually on the inside of the fuel tank, especially if there is a high ethanol content in your fuel. While you have the tank from the motorcycle, drain it and remove the fuel pump/sending unit assembly and have a good look inside the tank. Give the inside a good cleaning at the same time.
 
The rear wheel needs more attention, so it will take a little longer. Meanwhile, I took care of the final drive. I was surprised that, after loosening the four screws with which it is fixed to the swing arm, water flowed out from it (about half a glass). I disassembled it and looked inside the swing arm. Some splashes of water are visible, but no accumulation is visible. I cleaned it as best as I could and as far as the place next to the gimbal allowed. The rubber bellows from the cardan cross is not detached or cracked, I checked. For now, I have removed the entire final drive from swing arm (could not remove the ABS sensor, it is stuck in its place), cleaned, degreased, repainted, reassembled and greased, changed the oil inside.
 

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The rust is usually on the inside of the fuel tank, especially if there is a high ethanol content in your fuel. While you have the tank from the motorcycle, drain it and remove the fuel pump/sending unit assembly and have a good look inside the tank. Give the inside a good cleaning at the same time.
It is clean inside...
 
Suggestion: While you have the tank out remove the fuel shutoff. This doesn't affect how the bike runs but can leave you sitting on the side of the road. Ask me how I know.....
Thank you for suggestion. I always carry with me (in my tool kit) a hose adapter, specially made to be able to reroute over the shutoff valve. I read on the forum before, about the surprises it can create.
 
The rear wheel needs more attention, so it will take a little longer. Meanwhile, I took care of the final drive. I was surprised that, after loosening the four screws with which it is fixed to the swing arm, water flowed out from it (about half a glass). I disassembled it and looked inside the swing arm. Some splashes of water are visible, but no accumulation is visible. I cleaned it as best as I could and as far as the place next to the gimbal allowed. The rubber bellows from the cardan cross is not detached or cracked, I checked. For now, I have removed the entire final drive from swing arm (could not remove the ABS sensor, it is stuck in its place), cleaned, degreased, repainted, reassembled and greased, changed the oil inside.
I rebuilt a 1978 Goldwing back in the '90's. The driveshaft area of the swing arm was literally full of water. When I loosened the drive bolts it all, including ages of over-grease, dumped out all over my right sneaker. Took a while to clean the slippery &^%^ off the garage floor. I've used a drip pan since. The driveshaft exit seal at the engine and at the back side, and the boot were fine, no leak indications at the engine. Strange.
When I refurbished the ST1100, no moisture was present in the swingarm. The two designs are quite similar.
 
LR.
Whilst you're in there, have a good look at the unwelded flap on the right side of the swingarm. The crap gets in there and creates chaos. Give it a poke, it could be where the water got in if it's rusted through.
Great work by the way.
Upt'North.
 
That bit made me laugh. Can't wait to see it in the bright light of day. But it still looks amazing even just hanging around in your garage. Well done you.
Yeah... my english isn't my mother tongue...
It looks better in sunlight than inside my garrage... :-;
 

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So, I stayed with the rear wheel... I managed to clean it, sand it, putty, prime it and repaint it (sorry for pictures lost, when I work, I don't thing anything...). It would be necessary to replace the brake disc, but it can wait until spring, due to other costs. Anyway, it will be changed until the "season" on two wheels starts.
 

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LR.
Whilst you're in there, have a good look at the unwelded flap on the right side of the swingarm. The crap gets in there and creates chaos. Give it a poke, it could be where the water got in if it's rusted through.
Great work by the way.
Upt'North.
After I took out the carburetors out and removed the tank off, I wanted to clean it with water, detergent and a brush. Probably then, when I hit the water jet, it entered somewhere inside and leaked out when I dismantled the final drive case. I will document myself in more detail on the ensemble. Thank you for the warning...
 
The exhaust side...
I have had problems here since I bought it. Not having a history of fixes, when that I dismantled it I discovered that one or more of the previous owners welded the exhaust parts (?) So I haven't separated its (because I got dissasembled-assembled without problems) both exhausts into one. Over time, the joining parts corroded, and, rather than replacing them (probably high costs), he (prevous owner/rs) preferred to insulate them with thermal tape (asbestos cord or thermal fiber) and metal collar, to plug the resulting holes or cracks in due to corrosion. I can't afford to replace the exhaust part, but considering that the exhaust from the cylinders is made of stainless steel, and the Y-joint and the pressure equalizer are in good condition, I considered it worth to "rebuild", by welding "seams" and with addition of the missing "pieces" and considering that the final silencers are in still good condition. So, I proceeded to rebuild the exhaust, as much as I could, without buying replacement parts... The right silencer was much more damaged than the one on the left, but also, when I'm working I forget to take pictures
 

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I haven't finished the work, I just gathered the components, so that it can be stored in a hangar/garage, until spring or when I have more possibilities of temperature, time and work... Final exhaust need to be cleared and polished, not all screws are monted, oil filters and brake fluids will changed again...
 

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Stupid question (and this is a VERY interesting thread)…how do you think a large volume of water got in the driveshaft line? power washing vs just riding it in a lot of water from the previous owner? I’m just wondering.
 
Stupid question (and this is a VERY interesting thread)…how do you think a large volume of water got in the driveshaft line? power washing vs just riding it in a lot of water from the previous owner? I’m just wondering.
I don't know where that accumulation of water came from. There was no standing water there (only clear, clean water), or parts in proximity or contact with water to be damaged or rusty, just wet. I assume that the water got in somewhere, but I couldn't detect it visually, when I hit the pressure jet, then brush again with the jet, after removing the carbs and the tank from the chassis. I have never disassembled this swingarm, to see if there may be unwelded segments (but where water cannot penetrate under normal conditions of use).
 

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I think I will try to modify the battery compartment, instead of the metal support, to be able to attach an 18Ah battery. The place would be a little cramped, but I think it's possible.
The battery goes in quite easily, without that metal support.
 

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I think I will try to modify the battery compartment, instead of the metal support, to be able to attach an 18Ah battery. The place would be a little cramped, but I think it's possible.
The battery goes in quite easily, without that metal support.
The battery my 1991 came with kind'a surprised me. Length and width were correct but it was only half the height of a stock battery, perched on a well formed, black painted styrofoam block so that it fit. No manufacturer's identification on it that I could find. Guess my only point is that with a little creative innovation, you can make a secure mount for the battery.
 
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