timing belt age limit

I am saddened for you guys that have to put your bikes away for the winter... I'm glad I live in the south. Not to brag or anything, but I love not having to put the bike away, or even put funny tires on my car. We might get a week worth of really bad weather (snow/ice/coldwetstuff) and maybe two or three weeks worth of unrideable weather in the winter, but the rest of the time, with good cold weather gear, it's fine.
 
LAst I checked on my Honda cars, Honda recommended 6 yrs/90,000 miles on the belts. I had my kids timing belts replaced for the first time on their Accord and CRV at 200,000 miles and asked for the old parts back. The belts looked brand new. They replace water pump with the belt for some reason? Dealer charge was $400 per car if I recall correctly. It was a couple of years ago. They are still driving both cars..
 
Read abt a fellow in the UK that bought a used Police ST1100 and had a belt failure at 75K miles. I suspect there were many hours of roadside idle on the bike.
 
I have a 91 with 32k. There is no mention of a belt change, why would there if they are sticking to a 90k change interval. I will be inspecting mine within 2 weeks. I well let you know what I find.
 
My bet is you'll find a perfect looking (and feeling) belt.
Mine felt fine on both the 01 and the '93 when I did them both at over 110,000 miles.
 
Ok, sounds good. It's amazing it works that way. I know what rubber likes to do, but it is kept out of the UV which could be the major contributor. Is there an alternative belt, or OEM the only dimension available?
 
Oh, it doesn't hurt to change the belt to give you peace of mine either!
;)
 
Which schematic/fiche shows the timing belt and related parts? Looked thru em all and can't seem to find it..
 
My '91 has 65,000 miles of it and I did check it last winter and it looked good. However, I am changing it this winter along with doing all the rubber hoses. I figured 20 yrs is long enough!!
 
I did mine today and it went very well. No issues at all. My back is thanking me for getting the lift a couple weeks ago, it makes all the difference to no have to work from my knees.
 
I did my 93 with 90K on it. Old Honda belt looked really good to me. I am doing my dad's 01 right now and Honda belt also looks great at 77K. Interesting find is that his left bank cams are not in synch. I didnt notice before I took it apart because I did not look at both punchmarks on the cams but they are supposed to line up with the mating surface. Index lines on the right bank are right on the money. I suspect I can improve this when I pull the cam for shim adjusting. I remember my 93 looked spot on when I did that. I had the belt off and both cams out so that was a little more hairy. I am using a the gates belt this time but I have not had the cams out so this was something was done prior to my wrenching.
 
My '99 has 91,000 miles on it....ordered the parts last night to change the timing belt, idler, tensioner, and water pump. I figure while I am in there, might as well make everything like new. While I have it down for maintenance, I also will be changing the wheel bearing and upgrading the suspension. And while all that is going on, might as well flush all the fluids. Now a question....has anyone ever had any problems with the final drive on the 1100? I do not recall even reading about a problem on the forum....and before you ask....no, I did not do a search. Just thought I would put it out there.
 
I've done all my fluids recently. There is nothing to the final drive if you're changing fluid, I did take mine rear wheel off as I was the 4th owner to inspect the splines, re greased, reassembled, have ridden 400 miles since.
 
....has anyone ever had any problems with the final drive on the 1100? ...

The only problem I recall concerned the splines. They should be greased when changing tires or at least checked for grease when the wheel is removed. There was some thought there was an alignment problem. A hardware tightening procedure is listed in the repair manual. At 91K miles, I would doubt there would be an alignment problem. Change the final drive fluid and grease the splines when the wheel is off and you should be good to go.
 
Change the final drive fluid and USE MOLLY 60 on the splines when the wheel is off and you should be good to go.

Fixed it for you.:)
Ron, not knowing if you know or not, I will stress the importance of using the Honda Molly 60 Paste. By the book baby!
 
I did my timing belt yesterday...no issues at all, the change went smoothly. The belt looked good for 20 yrs old, it was brownish in color instead of black like the new belt. Today now onto all the coolant hoses....
 
The only problem I recall concerned the splines. They should be greased when changing tires or at least checked for grease when the wheel is removed. There was some thought there was an alignment problem. A hardware tightening procedure is listed in the repair manual. At 91K miles, I would doubt there would be an alignment problem. Change the final drive fluid and grease the splines when the wheel is off and you should be good to go.

Thanks. I have been lubing the splines with Honda Molly 60 every time the rear tire is changed. The final drive fluid was changed when I got the bike at 62,000miles. Now it will be changed again at 91....30,000 on the final fluid should be a good interval. Will have to check the book to see if that's correct. Received the parts on Friday and really chomping at the bits to start this project. Thanks for the feedback.
 
I use the moly 60 and do have a few miles on the ol' ST. I bought a tube about a million years ago and am still using it. That said, I'm not sure how big a deal the moly part is. I put 40K miles on my old Suzuki and used wheel bearing grease on it. I ask the guy I sold it to what he was using on it. He put another 40K miles or so on it using wheel bearing grease also. He sold it and the splines were still in good shape. Does the moly really matter? Does Honda recomend it 'cause it is their product? Did Suzuki make a better spline part? I think the main thing is to have grease in there to protect from moisture and some lube for the very small amout of movement in there.
 
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