Timing belt change and water pump

Stick is currently running (her third) a used belt off a 30,000 mile wreck. LipSTick is running a Gates belt from Amazon.com. Gotta keep our options open. :D
 
Just saw this thread. I would change the pump while in there... it's a lot of work to get back to that level. Once done, you won't have to worry about anything for quite a while.
 
MV_Dave said:
...the timing belt replacement can be put off until 130K instead of the recommended 90K miles?
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The omnipresent debate ;)
Fact is: to do the visual inspection properly, its required to get access to it. At the amount of parts removed and time involved to do so, one can already replace the thing there.
 
ST1100Y said:
The omnipresent debate ;)
Fact is: to do the visual inspection properly, its required to get access to it. At the amount of parts removed and time involved to do so, one can already replace the thing there.
Click to expand...

Not true,,, the visual inspection requires a pretty minimum removal of plastic. Some left side tupperware then the timing puller cover on that side. No need to remove the radiator, etc. Put the bike in fifth gear and turn the motor over using the back wheel and ya don't even need to get to the big bolt on the front of the crank.

Given the possibility of a belt and/or water pump failure I understand doing both. But so many bikes have gone past the recommended mileages it seems a waste to me. BTW, the used belt and used water pump in STick are out of a 91, so both are over 20 years old. She's getting duty for my spring trip 'cause I wanna get 200,000 of my own miles on her. Only 22,000 to go. Lots of folks have talked about the age of the belt being an issue or concern but I don't see it. (Now I've jinxed myself. :D)
 
George said:
Not true,,, the visual inspection requires a pretty minimum removal of plastic.
Click to expand...
Lets agree to disagree :-D
On that delicate item I'd like to check more as if already some threads hanging out the sides, but rather bend the belt inside out to check for tiny cracks between the ribs as well as to wiggle back and forth it on a pulley to see if there is any radial play... whilst the small cover over the crank sided pulley only allows me like a '...oh yes, there is a t/belt inside...' LOL!
 
ST1100Y said:
Lets agree to disagree :-D
On that delicate item I'd like to check more as if already some threads hanging out the sides, but rather bend the belt inside out to check for tiny cracks between the ribs as well as to wiggle back and forth it on a pulley to see if there is any radial play... whilst the small cover over the crank sided pulley only allows me like a '...oh yes, there is a t/belt inside...' LOL!
Click to expand...

As you say... and if yur gonna do that detailed inspection, I agree, go ahead and change it. Cheap insurance. (However, I've changed at least a half dozen because of miles and never saw a frayed one myself.
 
ST1100Y said:
Lets agree to disagree :-D
On that delicate item I'd like to check more as if already some threads hanging out the sides, but rather bend the belt inside out to check for tiny cracks between the ribs as well as to wiggle back and forth it on a pulley to see if there is any radial play... whilst the small cover over the crank sided pulley only allows me like a '...oh yes, there is a t/belt inside...' LOL!
Click to expand...

:plus1:

One of the very few times I've had to disagree with George. I've done lots and lots of timing belts on cages, and have gotten to some too late. I've seen plenty that broke that other than the broken spot, looked like a very good belt. I've seen others removed due to mileage, which looked great...until bent inside out, when the cracks were visible. Since the 1100 has a reasonably priced belt available for it from the aftermarket, I see no need to guess and hope.
 
And on a different note: don't ever get any liquids, oils or grease on that belt... ever. I actually wipe all pulleys and handle a new belt with a new pair of latex gloves... starting when taking it out the bag, till having it safely on all pulleys... overcautious?... maybe...
 
I finally got my 94 ST back together today. I replaced the timing belt with a gates one from Amazon. Replaced the water pump, oil cooler hoses, idler and timing belt pulleys. This was at 130k and mostly because my oil cooler hoses were leaking. I had replaced the timing belt at 68k, 8 yrs ago so it was time for the change. I use only Honda long life coolant and the water pump after I got it out, was fine at 130k. But I now have piece of mind, because of the corrosion on the pump. Pulleys were fine also! Thanks to everyone for the tips!!


Pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/jay.plummer/St1100WaterPumpPics
 
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