Tony Worrall's "Pendle Parking Brake" for the ST 1300

I like Andrew's solution and I'll do the same as he and Michael. The vinyl cap or tool dip would be pretty easy too but I think you'd be replacing the cap on a regular basis. Not that that's a big deal.

But is a galvanic reaction actually a consideration? There are dissimilar metals at many points of the front brake assembly. Is that screw a different material from any of those combinations?
 
ST Gui said:
But is a galvanic reaction actually a consideration? There are dissimilar metals at many points of the front brake assembly. Is that screw a different material from any of those combinations?
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I don't know for sure... I think I tend to be extra-careful about that kind of thing because of my experience in aviation maintenance. Plus, the brake master cylinder is a casting that is painted, I don't think it has been treated (anodized, etc.) in the same way that two flat plate dissimilar metals that make contact would have been. I suspect that the paint on the master cylinder provides 100% of the corrosion protection to that part.

Michael
 
ST Gui said:
But is a galvanic reaction actually a consideration?
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Generally speaking where ever aluminum will be in contact with another metal the manufacturer will anodize the aluminum to prevent galvanic corrosion. I have no idea if the master reservoir was anodized (I never bothered to test it) but even if it was I would still have this concern. The end of the brake adjustment set screw I received finishes with a sharp circular protrusion at the end just as an actual set screw does. With a set screw this sharp protrusion is designed to dig in to the metal it is screwing against to lock the two pieces together. When the park brake is applied and this set screw is forced against the master this sharp edge will easily, over time, penetrate any surface finish on the reservoir as well as any anodize that may be present. It already began doing so on my bike- this is how I noticed it. To prevent further damage I dressed the end of my set screw so that it is actually rounded and has no sharp edges now as well as adding the bumper I posted earlier. I had the same concern where the park brake rubs against the top of the brake lever support and has already damaged the finish there as well. Since I intend to keep this bike for the long haul I decided to modify my park brake in several areas to address my concerns. If nothing else it satisfies me. I think I took some pictures if anyone is interested.
 
CYYJ said:
I suspect that the paint on the master cylinder provides 100% of the corrosion protection to that part.
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Right and eventually that screw would probably dig through it. Even if it didn't it would leave a mark (ouch!) where there wasn't one until the mod.


Andrew Shadow said:
Generally speaking where ever aluminum will be in contact with another metal the manufacturer will anodize the aluminum to prevent galvanic corrosion.
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I wasn't aware of any of that though I knew about water heaters and boat props. The first pics showed the problem with the setscrew against the reservoir so that was clear to me.

The pics would be great. Even when there's no problem such as corrosion and/or galvanic reaction it would be nice not to blemish the finish because you added a farkle.
 
ST Gui said:
The pics would be great.
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Here you go.

PC070001.jpg
This is the damage the set-screw caused to my front brake reservoir. You can see the screw was digging in to the aluminum- this was after only a few test uses.


PC070004.jpg
To fix it I dressed the end of the set-screw so that it is rounded and has no sharp edges to it.


PB020001.jpg
Then I added this steel bumper to the aluminum reservoir to protect it from contact with the screw.


PC070002.jpg
Then I noticed that the park brake lever rubs against the top of the brake handle support and was wearing away the finish there as well as it rotates through its travel arc. You can see the scuff marks left and right of the through hole.


PC070006.jpg
To fix this issue I machined a 1/2" counterbore in to the underside of the park brake lever so that I would have a flat surface to work with. Then I machined the bushing that you see in the picture. It fits in to the counterbore in the park brake lever with the other end fitting in to recess where the head of the brake handle screw seats. It is designed to raise the park brake lever up just enough so that as it rotates it cannot contact the brake handle support and abrade the finish.


P Lever 002.jpg
I also didn't like the way that the supplied bolt was to short to bottom in the brake handle spport as the OEM Honda configuration does. I also didn't like the fact that there were precious few threads left protruding out the bottom to thread the safety lock nut on to. So I took the opportunity to address these issues as well by doing the below.


PC070007.jpg
I purchased a longer shoulder bolt which better matched the colour of all of the surrounding material. I then machined the shank of the bolt to the dimension I needed to allow for the addition of my bushing and so that it would also be long enough to properly bottom in the brake handle support.


P8180001.jpg
This also restored the number of threads protruding below the brake handle support to which the lock nut is afixed.


PB020002.jpg
All finished and assembled it looks like this. Nothing touches the OEM Honda parts where it shouldn't and nothing is abrading or damaging the finish anywhere.
 
I have had the PPD type brake on my st1100 for several years. I would like to find on that would work on my KLR650.

A great accessory.
 
Hi Andrew:

Wow, that is seriously elegant work that you did! I envy your skills working with metal.

Tony (the person who produces these parking brakes) is a retired engineer - hopefully he will see your post. It would be nice if you could communicate with him and let him know that it would be OK with you if he incorporated your good ideas into his design.

Michael
 
CYYJ said:
It would be nice if you could communicate with him
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I have comunicated with Tony on several occasions. It was not specifically about many of the modifications that you see above however I am sure that he will see them here on this forum He can contact me here if he so chooses.

In the interest of making sure that no one mis-understands I would like to take this opportunity to state that, even though I made significant modifications to the original design, this in no way is to be taken as any inference that I consider the design flawed. On the contrary, I very much like the design and the functionality it adds. Even after having the knowledge of the experience that I posted above I would, without hesitation, purchase another of these parking brakes if I had another ST1300 or changed bikes. In my dealings with Tony he provided excellent after sales customer service to me and stands behind his product 100%. I simply wished to change the design to suit my desires. The level of case specific tailoring that I did above is not possible for Tony. He explained to me that Honda uses several different suppliers for master brake reservoirs. This means that he has to deal with manufacturing variances from several different brake handle supports, brake levers, etc. There is no way for him to know what configuration any particular customer who orders the park brake will have so it is impossible for him to custom make them as I did. All in all it is a good product out of the box as delivered and one I would recommend from a vendor who stands behind his product.
 
CYYJ said:
Wow, that is seriously elegant work that you did! I envy your skills working with metal.
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+1! SERIOUS skills. I imagined where your other mods might be but not the solution or fines in the execution. Just Wow!.

And it's obvious your mods were just detailing the fit and not criticisms of the design.

I got an email from Royal Mail saying that it's shipped so I'm excited. I'll definitely dress the screw and add some bit to the reservoir for the screw to contact.

I'm out of luck for the extended bolt and bushing but may try to find some super-thin washers to raise the PB.

Thanks for the pics! I love these threads where people include excellent ultra-clear pics.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
The level of case specific tailoring that I did above is not possible for Tony. He explained to me that Honda uses several different suppliers for master brake reservoirs. This means that he has to deal with manufacturing variances from several different brake handle supports, brake levers, etc. There is no way for him to know what configuration any particular customer who orders the park brake will have so it is impossible for him to custom make them as I did.
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Really? I've never seen any modern-era Honda OEM non-radial brake reservoirs not manufactured by NISSIN. Replacement levers all fit perfectly, so I don't see what the problem would be... :shrug2:

Ciao,
 
Yet Honda changed the lever and front master cylinder in 2011 (might have been 2010 or 2012- but right in there). Sorry you missed that!

JZH said:
Really? I've never seen any modern-era Honda OEM non-radial brake reservoirs not manufactured by NISSIN. Replacement levers all fit perfectly, so I don't see what the problem would be... :shrug2:

Ciao,
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JZH said:
Really? I've never seen any modern-era Honda OEM non-radial brake reservoirs not manufactured by NISSIN. Replacement levers all fit perfectly, so I don't see what the problem would be... :shrug2:

Ciao,
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if I remember correctly he said there was at least three different suppliers. Whether or not that means three different manufacturers is another question. You will need to ask him if you are curious as he is on this site. It is a question I did not pursue, and therefore cannot answer, as it is of little consequence to me as I have a good product and Tony was great to deal with- which is what did concern me.
 
Just wondering, for those of you that have one of Tony's parking brakes, do you have enough confidence that you would put the bike on its side stand and in neutral and warm it up while parked on an incline?

Ray
 
STraymond said:
Just wondering, for those of you that have one of Tony's parking brakes, do you have enough confidence that you would put the bike on its side stand and in neutral and warm it up while parked on an incline?

Ray
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Yes- no question. It can maintain more than enough brake power to prevent the front wheel from turning regardless of the incline. If the incline were steep enough the tire would slide before the wheel will turn if the park brake was applied with enough force. I would not walk away and leave it alone however- not because I have any concern that the park brake will fail but because if anyone squeezes the brake lever the park brake releases instantly as it is designed to do.
 
STraymond said:
do you have enough confidence that you would put the bike on its side stand and in neutral and warm it up while parked on an incline?
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I hope to check this out as it's one of the specific reasons for getting the parking brake. Tony has recommended using a 4mm drill (supplied) instead of 4.5mm and I think this is probably for reliability. Drilling the dimple/divot perfectly perpendicular probably helps. Maybe.

I used to use a nylon strap wrapped around the grip and brake lever secured with a hook-and-loop fastener. I expect the Pendle Brake to be a significant improvement.
 
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