Top Box Keyed alike?

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Aug 3, 2024
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Wau TPNG
G'day, can the top box red key barrel be changed out/upgraded to a Honda barrel. With the intent to have all locks keyed alike? ST1300 2006 Australian, Genuine Honda Top Box.
 
The lock industry has for years bonded locksmiths and tried to limit the spread of knowledge to those outside the profession. Automakers do the same all in the name of preventing theft. The internet has thwarted this somewhat, but it is still difficult to get definitive answers to questions like yours. I would expect that Honda outsources the manufacturing of locks and getting specifications - dimensions - that would answer your question once and for all is going to be difficult if not impossible.
 
It's not a Honda thing... it's a Givi thing... Givi makes the OEM top boxes for Honda and have also seen OEM branded Givi boxes on Kawasaki and some other brands. The keys will never match unless the top box is made by the manufacturer... like the BMW top box you can get. Or, in the case of Touratech that makes oem saddlebags/top boxes for BMW that can be keys for the bike. I've never seen a Givi box keyed that way, not saying it's impossible, just never seen anyone go to that length.
 
I had a locksmith re-key all of the locks of my K&G luggage on my Nighthawk to work with a single key, but the Honda locks are very different.
 
Yes, it is possible. I did it. I can open all boxes with the oem Honda key.
But you have to dismantle the lock and inner plates.


Interesting. Thanks.

I have two Givi cases with two different keys.

According to these instructions, I should be able to re-key one of the cases and use one key for both as well?

Givi told me it was not possible and were more than happy to sell me a set of matching locks........
 
You can search YouTube for more instructions. So you have more examples, for how to do it.
Yes, then you can use 1 key for both.

And the oem Honda key is indeed longer. But you use only the the first two centimeter, where the ingravings are. The rest is straight and does nothing.
 
You can search YouTube for more instructions. So you have more examples, for how to do it.

Not sure I need to look further. Thought your example was exemplary! Bedankt.

One concern is that I know some of these tiny parts will run away from me (on your vid, you were very prompt catching one trying to escape).

And also not sure I can still clearly see such tiny things......


Yes, then you can use 1 key for both.

What I am looking for is slightly different from what you are demonstrating.

I am trying to key-alike two different sets of GIVI cases, not trying to match the ignition key like you.

And the keys for these cases are different than the GIVI key you are showing (mine are Trekker cases. a 33L and 46L that would be nice to have keyed-alike) and they look like this:

1722889374704.jpeg

Would your method work for this type of keys as well?

And the oem Honda key is indeed longer. But you use only the the first two centimeter, where the ingravings are. The rest is straight and does nothing.

The cases go on different bikes so am not really looking at matching the one ignition key, but one key for both cases would still be nice.
 
@MidLife Reaching out to Givi for a set seems the least headache way.

I was surprised that the "rekey" worked, then I saw the old style key, it matches the OEM case too. Red key is OEM Honda(Givi), that looks like it should be no problem to "rekey". Changing out the wafers is a better idea than just moving a few so it works IMHO. Cursory search on A did not result in a wafer kit to purchase. Pro Tip: if you're removing the wafers you can push them out from the other side. I'm not familiar with new Givi locks (black Givi key). My limited lock knowledge has me thinking you won't get that to work with a Honda key, however, you may be able to change the whole cylinder, as pictured.

Does anyone have a new one they feel like taking apart?

IMG_8161.jpeg
 
I've said before, that 90% of a trade is knowing what hardware is out there and how the pieces are supposed to go together. The other 10% is the skill of doing what needs to be done.

There are many many different locks and latches. The problem with rekeying panniers, top cases, and ignition keys runs into multiple manufacturers and different styles of cylinders. If one is familiar with different brands of latches/locks, then you can figure out which brands will fit the available space on your cases. Then comes the problem of changing the cylinders so that all accept the same key, either with notches on the outside or the engraved type (far right in post #12). Changing several cylinders so that they all work with one key is pretty straightforward and not beyond the skill set of most of the folks on this website. The knowledge gap about the hardware (as I said above) is the real problem.
 
Having just watched a YT on the new style Givi, probably not an easy task to match to ignition key. The engraved key is using the middle of the blank, the standard uses the top and bottom. Matching either to themselves is pretty straight forward, mixing them, not so much. Pro Hack: if your key cut and wafer stack is close, you can always file it (tops of wafers protruding from cylinder when key inserted), just a little. You can rearrange them too, as you saw in the video.

Locks are just math, key cut, 0-9 matches wafer, 0-9. A zero cut will have a large center wafer section, a nine will have a short*. It gets complicated when you start trying to use keys not milled for the keyway, not impossible just harder, after all, they are called locksmiths. Best one I ever knew was a burnt out jeweler, he said it was so much easier and loved getting his hands dirty.

* Edit: I have this backwards, 9 is a deep cut, tall wafer...
 
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Some further inf.
 
... and were more than happy to sell me a set of matching locks ...
Which is a lot less hustle and definitely more reliable then tinkering around with barrels and wafers...
There risks of ending stranded aside the road, unable to open (or lock) the darn case...
 
I have Givi cases with both lock styles. Can confirm they are not interchangeable. The two pictures above show it. The cylinders are different lengths and the new style has a protrusion at the end which engages with the latch mechanism that the old style can't.

I know, good dream.

On a different note, I did get metal only copies made of those keys to keep the bulk of my keychain down.
 
I have Givi cases with both lock styles. Can confirm they are not interchangeable.

As you say, older shorter locks cannot be swapped for this longer newer one. So this newer lock will not fit in an older Maxia (or Hondaline) box lock,

--Wondering if the newer Maxia have also switched to the newer style lock?

--And still wondering if an old style lock can be worked on to match a new style key?

On a different note, I did get metal only copies made of those keys to keep the bulk of my keychain down.

Interesting, the Givi back up key that came with the case is metal only, maybe by popular demand!
 
This is not an answer to the question. Its a different prespective to the required solution.
I have three types of key - and I am quite happy about that.

1. The ignition key - alloy with an HISS chip - this is used to start te bike.
2. A copy of the ignition key - steel without an HISS chip - This cannot start the bike by itself. It is used for the panniers and left fairing box.
3. The Givi style stumpy, metal, red handle top box key.

If I had one key to fit all locks, it would have to be the soft alloy HISS ignition key - which would probably get more than 10 times the wear that it gets now.
I have had an alloy ignition key crack and snap. It is not a great deal of fun. I managed to get the broken bit out and used the steel key to get me home - starting it with the broken handle laid alongside to overcome the HISS system. Once started, the bike runs without the HISS chip until you stop the engine. But getting the broken bit out was 1% skill and 99% luck.

I have various spares with me. One day I will remember where I put them all.
 
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